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Thanks every one. The cowl is cracked into about 5 different pieces. There is a crack in the middle of the cowl that extends down all the way through the vent where the foam is supposed to be. There are also large cracks on each end that run from the screws up to the corner of each end, but they are over the metal shelf that dswilly mentioned earlier, so I don't know if it's possible for water to enter there. I bought some plastic-safe connection cleaner, so I'll unplug all the connections I can find in the passenger footwell, spray them with the cleaner, and reconnect them.
If I go one connector at a time, is this safe to do with the battery still connected? I don't have the radio code, so I don't want to disconnect it if I can help it.
I also took the truck for a test drive around town, and I couldn't feel any misfires, so that may be down to water being trapped somewhere and evaporating. I plugged the Ultragauge back in, and it scanned through the gauges 4 or 5 times before finally finding 49 gauges, but it wouldn't display all of them. The only live data it would show was the coolant temp. I plugged my Autel code reader in, and it was able to connect this time and give me the stored code for the misfire. I cleared that, and will go for another drive this evening to see if I just missed the misfire, and if it's still happening. The Ultragauge was still flashing and acting strange during my drive.
You should do what you need to do to get your radio code. You won’t be able to go without disconnecting your battery forever.
dswilly is quite right about water getting into the HVAC inlet. We got our D2 for barely above scrap price due to that leak getting into the ECU and killing it.
f I go one connector at a time, is this safe to do with the battery still connected? I don't have the radio code, so I don't want to disconnect it if I can help it.
FWIW, in the 19 years I have owned my truck I don't recall ever needing to enter the radio code. And the battery has obviously been disconnected many, many times.
That said, the Radio Operation Manual for my '99 says "If you lose your code number, contact the nearest Land Rover retailer, who will be able to obtain this information for you."
It also says "Your vehicle was manufactured with the security code disabled; if you wish to have the code activated, consult your Land Rover retailer." So that indicates the code was never activated in my truck. My guess it odds are in your favor that the code was never enabled in your truck, but go ahead and call a dealer and ask them to get the code for you.
Just tested continuity of the pink ground wire in the OBDII port and it has good connection to ground. The Ultragauge never seems to lose power, because even when the screen flashes, it doesn't have to rescan for the codes like it does if you plug it in for the first time. It now has to scan 4 or 5 times before it establishes communication with the truck, and displays a message about losing comms.
I pulled down the trim pieces in both footwells, and don't see any signs of water or rust, which I don't know how I feel about. I'm going to clean the connectors just to be sure they're good. I'm also going to pull the spark plugs to see if they are the reason for my misfire in cylinder 5, which came back again when I went on another trip around the block just now.
Question: is my intake supposed to be full of a transparent, colorless liquid that's slightly more viscous than water? I took it off to get to my #5 spark plug, and there is a lot of this stuff in the little reservoir type thing on the bottom of the intake tube. I'm afraid I know what it is, if it's not supposed to be there. About a month ago I tried to do a Seafoam treatment, and I inserted the little sprayer just after the MAF sensor, since I knew I didn't want to get that wet. My exhaust never got smoky, so did I just spray the whole bottle right down into this reservoir?
Thank you for your input up to this point, and please don't give up on me hahaha
**Edit** I got my misfiring spark plug out, and it is very worn and carboned up. And it broke. The PO told me that the spark plug wires are new, which I can see, but it appears the spark plugs are not. So my misfire may not be related to the issues with the OBDII port. I'll be replacing all the spark plugs, which should hopefully clear up the misfire and make the engine run better in general. But I'm still left with questions about the OBDII port.
Last edited by mendenhall2; Jun 8, 2021 at 02:21 PM.
Reason: Replace picture
Just tested continuity of the pink ground wire in the OBDII port and it has good connection to ground.
The pink wire is not a ground wire. It's the data connection to the several onboard computers. It should not have continuity to ground. It should have continuity to its termination at Connector C0286, which plugs into Header 0286. According to the pic in the Electrical Library, Header 0286 is somewhere near the blower motor behind the glove box.
Do you have the Electrical Library and Electrical Circuits PDFs?
I can't say for certain, of course, but I think it's highly unlikely that the diagnostic socket wiring and connectors information is different for a 2004 DII.