Anyone using these? any thoughts? Thx

 

I haven't run across anyone running e-lockers in our trucks. They definitely have their pros and cons just like an air locker does. If you go air I would strongly recommend the ashcroft. Also go with the high output single arb compressor as it can double up on airing up tires. I got the smallest cheapest arb and I regret not going with the high output single (the twin is just outrageously priced imo with not near enough upside).

 

I agree...high price for compressor...
I'm considering just trutrac diff for front, and electrical lock for rear. I really don't want air locker...Only place I can find the Eaton electric lock diffs is in Australia...silly....and price is crazy at 1700 AU dollars.....plus 200 shipping.....

I am pretty sure I can find the correct 24 spline parts and the ring gear mount from eaton here in USA for way less.......have to research....and call Eaton

 

Any reason for not wanting air lockers?

Also, I'm not a fan of having an open (unlocked or optional locker) and then a semi locked front. In my opinion either it's selectable rear and open front or selectable front and rear. Or run trutracs both front and rear, or a detroit locker in the rear with a trutrac front. I don't like the idea of a non selectable front diff and an open rear.

I believe Lucky8 has e lockers but they aren't Eaton if I remember correctly.

 

Well, I just don;t feel like plumbing air lines...but the harrop/eaton elocker price is ridiculous, even in AU dollars. And these vids were helpful:


Looks like truetrac gets good reviews on road and with little steering issues, but I don't really want to use my brakes to activate the torque bias mechanism if main grabbing wheel is slipping on a wet slope.....

I can see that having a locking front and rear (selectable: air or electric) will ultimately be the best choice.

I like the design of the ashcroft lockers.....with a non rotating piston seal...but it does use a bronze bush to push on locking pins... air lockers way cheaper and I can get the whole diff built and shipped for price of JUST the Elocker!...LK8 has what I need.


But tell me more about why you don't like the combo of locking(selectable: air or electric) rear and truetrac front?

 

That's fair on plumbing the lines. I know people with the ARBs have more issues with the internal hard line breaking. I've had my ashcroft almost 2 years with zero issues.

You touched on it briefly, but under road driving conditions even bad weather the odds are super strong you will have the rear unlocked. The car then potentially becomes unpredictable around corners if wet, icy or snowy. As once the trutrac feels a slippage all the power is going to one wheel and that can be inconsistent. Also, I really like knowing that I don't have to have any sort of slippage for my locker to be engaged which lowers the shock loading to the driveline/axles when off-road. I'm sure some will say it's not an issue but why go adding more stress to our drivelines if you can avoid it.

I think it's best to leave open or go full selectable or run non selectable options in the rear only or both.

LK8 used to carry KAM elockers but I don't see them on their site anymore. I think the easy button is having someone build the thirds and then you just drop them in. Unfortunately, GBR only uses ARB lockers with their gears. I'd like to use GBR gears when I get around to re-gearing.

 

Thx! Yep agree. I like the LK8 drop in thirds. Decided on Ashcroft air lockers with stock gearing as I spend most of my time on road. Probably add a compressor with one gallon 120psi tank, not the ARB one...

I not opposed to adding ashcroft HD driveshafts while everything is apart...Thoughts?

my opinion: I can probably stay with OEM shafts unless i get a deal on the sale...

 

Unless you are super hard on the skinny pedal I think the stock shafts are adequate at least up to 285s, though I don't have a front locker so I can't say to how well they front will fair. That said I wouldn't replace them/upgrade until something broke. With a CDL I'll be able to limp home or to pavement if I break a shaft, will suck to pull it on the trail but for the money I can't justify it when I've had no issues thus far.

What size tires are you running? It might make sense to bump up to 3.7 or whatever that exact ratio is to help get back to stock rpm ranges.

 

265x65x18s (32's)

good thought.. I do notice a slightly slower acceleration on the 32's compared to the OEM size tires on other disco..but it's not bad at all. Ill have to see what ratios the offer at LK8...ashcroft has at least 5-6...

 

Yea it's probably not bad but it costs the same. I just know jumping to 4.11s would be overkill for you. Plus the ashcroft gears should be stronger than the stock ones.