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Calls are not free but you make a deposit like 10 Euro and you can call free
for a month or so unlimited. Don't call 888 or 800 as those eat your deposit.
That way you can talk about the EKA and now spend big money.
Here is a bit more detailed text, stolen from rave:
Quote:
The code is recorded on the security information card and is entered as follows:
Using the key, turn the driver's door lock to the UNLOCK position and hold in this position for at least 5 seconds. An audible warning is then emitted to indicate that the body control unit is ready to accept the code. Return the key to the centre position. It is now possible to use the key to enter the separate numerical values of the four digits that make up the EKA code.
Enter the first digit of the code. If the first digit is 4, turn the key to the UNLOCK position 4 times. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
Enter the second digit of the code. If the second digit is 3, turn the key to the LOCK position 3 times. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
Enter the third digit of the code. If the third digit is 2, turn the key to the UNLOCK position twice. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
Enter the fourth digit of the code. If the fourth digit is 1, turn the key to the LOCK position once. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
Finally, turn the key to the UNLOCK position and back to the centre position, a double bleep will indicate that the code has been entered correctly. A single bleep indicates that the code has been entered incorrectly.
Then, before opening the door, wait 5 minutes for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated. During the 5 minute wait for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated, the alarm indicator LED in the instrument pack continues to flash (one flash every 2 seconds). DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR OR ATTEMPT TO ENTER THE CAR until the full delay period has elapsed.
When the 5 minute wait has elapsed, the alarm indicator LED stops flashing. Immediately open the door, insert the key in the ignition switch and turn the switch to position II. If the ignition switch is not turned to position II within 30 seconds of the end of the 5 minute wait, the engine is automatically immobilised again.
The EKA code will not be recognised if there is an interval of 10 seconds or more between key turns or if the key is held turned for 5 seconds or more during the procedure.
In some system configurations a successful EKA code entry is indicated by the audible warning device pulsing twice for a period of 50 ms on, 200 ms off. The theft deterrent LED is switched on for 1 second, all doors unlock, the alarm disarms and the vehicle is remobilised allowing the engine to start.
If an incorrect code is entered, an audible warning is emitted and the procedure must be repeated. Up to a maximum of 10 attempts to enter the code is possible. After 10 attempts, the BCU will not allow any further codes to be entered for a period of 10 minutes.
It's a long story but the 'open' button wore out on my key fob leave a big hole. If you jammed your finger in repeatedly in usually opened OK so (and here's me being a tight get) I didn't pay for a new key fob (£110 from main dealer, £165 for spare key)...
Anyway, this morning I was cleaning out our chickens in a rush and crammed half a dozen eggs in my jacket pocket (with my keys); bent over to pick up a water trough and broke three of the eggs in my pocket!!! My key had enough yolk in the fob to make a decent sized omlette... I cleaned it out as best I could then popped the key in the ignition and it all the dash lights came on but it wouldn't start... I guess the immobiliser won't work? Is that right?
When I went to the main dealer to get a coronary over the price of a new key, he told me about the EKA and had a look on their system for the code (as my Disco is very old; had lots of owners and I haven't anything with the number on). He found a key code (not EKA code - are they different?) and wrote that down so I've tried using the process in the handbook... but to no effect. ONe of the numbers is a zero, so I have a feeling its probably not the right number anyway as you can't turn a key to the left zero times, can you?
Anyway. I'm in a right fix here. I now can't even get the car started to go and get a key matched...
Does anyone know:
Is the key code the same as the EKA code (and if so, how do you put a zero in?)
If no, how do I find out the EKA number for my car?
I presume I can't get my car started without the EKA - can anyone recommend a mobile auto locksmith that could remap a new key if I get a new fob from the main dealer? (Chesterfield area?)
Thanks as always...
biosbill
2nd Jan 2011, 17:55
IIRC (ill go look in the rave in a sec). But the EKA should be a 4 digit code and the key number is 6 digits, but I dont think they're the same thing.
Usually the EKA is on a little card inside all the user manuals etc, if they're all still complete and with the car. The one of my rover is paperclipped to the top of the service docs in a folder at home. Its probably not best to keep it in the car, but yours might be there?
William
Big Fearny
2nd Jan 2011, 18:01
Cheers William... It's a four digit number he gave me... but like I say, one's a zero... and I can't figure how to put it in!
I've definitely not got a security card... my Disco is 12 years old; had shed loads of owners, the last one (who I bought it off) struggled to find the only key!
bananahead
2nd Jan 2011, 18:28
Right, if you are really tight, and you are getting an auto sparky out then you could just bypass the immobiliser and get him to rewire the live to the injector pump, and rewire the live to the starter solenoid relay. The starter solenoid relay is the middle of three behind the driver side kick panel (on the side of the car in driver footwell). A decent auto electriian will have no probs getting you going if you tell him where that relay is.
Big Fearny
2nd Jan 2011, 18:35
Sorry... Didn't realise you'd actually answered my other question with IRC - I found them at Discovery 2 EKA Code Online or Telephone 01379 669375.
They want £17.50.... as I mentioned earlier, I'm a tight get... will LR main dealer have it for nowt?
Satancom
2nd Jan 2011, 19:14
I think 0 is entered as 10.. Worth a try
Bingy bong
3rd Jan 2011, 02:08
If you take your log book to the main dealer, they should be able to give you the EKA code for free. The code has two numbers and two letters in it. eg 1 A 2 B.
If you ask them what A and B stands for they will tell you, its a lot safer them telling you, than letting the whole world know on a landrover forum the security codes.Could your 0 not be a letter O?
Big Fearny
6th Jan 2011, 20:00
Right. This is getting really annoying now. Thanks for all your help... but here is the story so far (and thanks for all your help to date!!)
Tried 10 rather than 0... still didn't work.
Applied online to IRC... website said they got it, they took my £17.50 and then I watched the egg timer for about an hour... which them disappeared! I then got an email from paypal to say I'd been refunded... no explanation from IRC. Tried to ring them but couldn't get through.
Rang main dealer who said they'd let me have the EKA if I took in my log book and ID for £10+VAT. I asked them to check if they'd got it (as I'd already got the key code which didn't work!)... and they said, it didn't look like it... they'd need to email Land Rover for the EKA... that was Tuesday!
I rang my local garage (who are brilliant by the way!) and they said they couldn't do anything for me as it would have to go to a main dealer... LR don't release the software for any old garage to do the work.
I then rang main dealer today (Thurs) to see if they'd heard anything but they hadn't. I asked if I should get Green Flag to take it to them and they said there was no point, they couldn't do anything without the EKA either! Why?
Aaaarrrggghhh!!!
I now stuck with my Disco (fortunately on my drive) with absolutely no way of sorting it!
Getting desparate now - thinking I'm going to need to go with Bananahead's suggestion of bypassing immobiliser - anyone know a good auto spark near Chesterfield?
Thanks in anticipation...
BTW bl**dy snow forecast for tomorrow now!! typical!
ricc
6th Jan 2011, 21:46
when my father was having immobiliser fob problems with his 300 tdi i rang the local main dealer to ask about a new fob and was passed arround (fobbed off) till i got to workshop who talked through fitting a battery and resyncing ... its in the handbook... then i just asked if i could override by twiddling the key in some complex way, guy asked for the reg no and fired up his puter and gave me the four digit code... four numbers, all single , no letters. ... i guess its down to who youre lucky enough to get on the end of the phone... in this case the parts dept didnt seem to know anything .
listerdiesel
6th Jan 2011, 21:54
FWIW:
Our local dealer parts guys got me our code for free, we were spending money with them (and still do!) so were happy to do us a favour.
The codes are 1-9 and A to F by memory, I don't think there is a zero in the sequence as you cannot enter it, it has to be done in the following sequence with a start and finish operation:
First digit turn lock to the left and back to centre X times
Second digit turn lock to the right and back to centre X times
Third digit turn lock to the left and back to centre X times
Fourth digit turn lock to the right and back to centre X times
I have the letter/number conversions at the factory in the vehicle folder, but the sequence is letters and numbers, A being 10, B is 11, C is 12, D is 13. E is 14, F is 15. Not sure of the exact numbers, I'll confirm that tomorrow morning.
The sequences are in the owner's handbook, P13 for the Disco 1.
They want £17.50.... as I mentioned earlier, I'm a tight get... will LR main dealer have it for nowt?
Try this.
Fax your V5 to Marshall Peterbro on 01733 340607. And ask them if you could have your EKA code.
Their phone no. is 01733 566767.
They did it for me this week for nothing.
Del.
Big Fearny
10th Jan 2011, 14:00
Well... I've eventually got the EKA code from the main dealer... took a week, mind... Can't wait to get home to try it!!
Big Fearny
10th Jan 2011, 19:59
Yeah... it worked... but what a bloomin faff...
Only Land Rover could design a process to get your car started that involves you standing OUTSIDE the car for 5 minutes whilst it p*sses down with rain!
Thanks to everyone for all their help and suggestions... as usual, they were really appreciated.
ricc
10th Jan 2011, 20:05
its similar with the rover cars ... 416, 216,,, etc
Hi, ive just put a 4.6 into my discovery 2 and as it was not fitted quickly, it did take several months to get it all right, I had to put the eka in to get all the systems up and running ready for fire up, all went well and the eka went in ok and the first fire up was good, but after switching of to check fluids and things it went into lock out again, and the remotes would not lock or open the car, so I got a man around with a autologic thing and he tunned in the keys and all went well it locked unlocked and started ok, the following morning my wife unlocked the car and put it out side our gate for a valet and clean up, she did this over a few hours, then it went into lock out again, and it lost the remotes and has not started or ran without eka since, one man said alarm reciver so I bought and fitted man with autologic came to reset fobs but now the car says it cant find the keys ie fobs he has inputted the key nos but there is no signal either to or from the reciever for the keys to pick up, ive done switch cleaner around all the bcu plugs and now im sick of trying things, should I break it for spares, its a shame as its a good looking car, please help, regards andy
Avatar
Mf1200artic
March 13, 2012.
Answer Question
Here is the proper way to redo the eka. It soundslike it needs to be resyncronized. But make sure batteries in key fobs are in good condition.
EMERGENCY KEY ACCESS (EKA)
NOTE: Before attempting an Emergency Key Access (EKA), ensure remote transmitter batteries are in good condition. If batteries are no good or replacement
procedure takes more than 60 seconds, remote transmitter will require resynchronization.
NOTE: If either front door is opened while entering an EKA code, a mislock will be indicated. The door must be closed and key locked and the code entered from the
beginning. This does not count as an incorrect code entry. The EKA code will not be recognized if there is an interval of 10 seconds or more between key turns
or if the key is held turned for 5 seconds or more during the procedure.
Emergency Key Access (EKA) allows anti theft system to be disarmed and engine to be mobilized when a remote transmitter malfunctions. EKA requires that a 4 digit code be entered using the key and the driver's
door lock. The 4 digit code is either a number assigned to the vehicle and found on the security information card or a default number obtainable from the manufacturer. With vehicle locked, alarm system armed, and key
inserted in driver's door lock cylinder, turn key as specified (key must be fully turned to rest and lock/unlock position each time): 1. Insert key into driver's door lock, turn to the unlock position and hold for at least 5 seconds. There will be an audible warning when the BCU is ready to accept the code. Return the key to the rest position. It is
now possible to use the key to enter the separate numerical values of the 4 digits that make up the EKA code.
2. If the first digit is 4, turn the key to the unlock position 4 times. Ensure key is fully returned to rest position after each turn of the key.
3. If the second digit is 3, turn the key to the lock position 3 times. Ensure key is fully returned to rest position after each turn of the key.
4. If the third digit is 2, turn the key to the unlock position 2 times. Ensure key is fully returned to rest position after each turn of the key.
5. If the fourth digit is one, turn the key to the lock position one time. Ensure key is fully returned to rest position after each turn of the key.
6. Finally, turn the key to the unlock position and back to rest position, a double beep will indicate that the code has been entered correctly. A single beep indicates that the code has been entered incorrectly.
7. Before opening the door, WAIT 5 minutes for the alarm and immobilizer to be deactivated. DO NOT open the door or attempt to enter the vehicle until the full delay period has elapsed.
8. During the 5 minute wait for the alarm and immobilizer to be deactivated, the alarm indicator LED in the instrument panel will continue to flash (one flash every 2 seconds).
9. When the 5 minute wait has elapsed, the alarm indicator LED will stop flashing. Immediately open the door, insert key into the ignition switch and turn to RUN position. The ignition switch must be turned to RUN
position within 30 seconds of the end of the 5 minute wait or the BCU will automatically immobilize the engine again.
10. If an incorrect code is entered, an audible warning is emitted and the procedure must be repeated. Up to 10 attempts to enter the correct code are possible. After 10 attempts, the BCU will not allow any further
you may have to go to dealerfor resyncronization of this.
Mislock
Body Control Unit (BCU) will prevent locking and a mislock will occur if the driver's door is not fully closed, the ignition switch on, the inertia switch is tripped or the vehicle is already superlocked.
Reply
Expert
Tiny
Hmac300
Mar 13, 2012.
HI THANKS FOR THE INFO, IVE COVERED THE AREAS YOU MENTION MANY TIMES AND STILL NO LUCK THE LAST TECH GUY SAID THAT HE COULD NOT GET THE KEY FOB PLIPS TO TALK TO THE RECIEVER AND UNTILL I SORTED THAT IT COULD NOT BE ALL SYNCED TOGETHER, BUT IVE CHECKED THE PLUG AND WIRES AT THE RECIEVER AND THE BCU HAD IT ALL OUT AND CHECKED IF THERE WAS CORROSION BUT NONE, IVE A POWER PROBE BUT NOT GREAT WITH IT, SHOULD I CHECK THE WIRES FROM BCU TO THE ROOF ANTENA.
Reply
Tiny
Mf1200artic
Mar 13, 2012.
Ya check those to the antenna but also check your body grounds as they may be the culprit as well. I'm sendign a cople of diagrams to check grounds. And it seems everything goes through the idm. Whatever that is. Also the following is an interesting tidbit I picked up that may be your cause as well.
The following manufacturing details are programmed into the BCU which can be accessed using TestBook: ? Date of manufacture.
? Hardware version number.
? Unit serial number.
? Odometer reading.
It is not possible to use the diagnostic bus to communicate with the BCU via TestBook when the security system is active (except for passive immobilization). This is a security measure to ensure that no key programming
or market configuration can take place if the operator is not in possession of a valid remote transmitter or the vehicle keys.
The BCU is normally programmed to accept two remote transmitters, but a further two remote handsets can be programmed into the BCU and one optional Self Levelling Suspension (SLS) transmitter. All remote
transmitters need to be available if TestBook is to be used to re configure the BCU.
Quote:
Procedure for Programming a New or Non-Functional Remote:
New remote handsets even if ordered from the factory apparently have to be programmed/synchronized to the BECM by a special procedure formerly known only to dealers. Peter Marsh went through this dilemma when he purchased an official new remote for $147 from Land Rover (UK) and had to give them his VIN and Grandmother's maiden name. He got it to work by the following procedure: "Close the car. Insert the new remote in the drivers side lock pressing and holding the button with the lock symbol. Turn the key to the right as if locking, still holding the lock button down. Hold in this position for 3 seconds. Turn back to the centre position and pull the key out - STILL HOLDING THE KEY BUTTON. Once the key is out release the lock button. Whalla. Mine worked a treat after this." Wayne Gardam used the procedure from this section to get an old remote going again. When he purchased his Range Rover, one of its remotes would not work even after replacing the batteries, cover and keypad. The usual synchronization procedure had no effect. Search of net and owner's forums turned up a variety of suggestions from buying a new unit and getting the dealer to do it to turning in door for 10 seconds or placing in ignition etc. Finally, the procedure above worked first time! When Dan Foley got a new remote handset through the dealer, they wanted an extra $60 to program it, but he tried the above procedure himself and it worked perfectly.
Posts: 1159
Im sorry its has taken sooooo long for a reply but sometimes thats what it takes.
To date i have been in touch with my scanner company and they have been wrighting soft wear for my scanner.
To this day nothing has worked
I had to order a new Becu for the truck.Once the security ststem was tripped it became impossible to do anything with it.
Once the new Becu was installed and was scanned i told it to do a relearn.This is supposed to make it communicate with the engine ECU.I then told the engine ECU that the Becu was replaced.This situation should have cleared up any problems right .WRONG lol
I ended up giving a friend a call in the good old USA who had a wrecked DII.The truck was a running one at the time and the two puters were OK and worked together.
I ordered them and it took a cpl of weeks to get them in.
Well last night was the night .I installed the two puters.I reprogramed the key fob to the new puter and it worked
Now it was time to see if the new puters were going to talk to each other,Keeping my fingers crossed and toes as well i turned the key.
The truck fired right up and stayed running
I let it run fro a few minuits and then decided to try the key fob it worked
SO what have we learned here .
The new puter was defective go figure.
if you are going to try to replace one puter you may as well replace the other if they arnt communicating with each other.
You also have to reset all the perameters.
Also a little luck comes a long way when dealing with a DII also.
Now i can get back to the problems it came in for
Brakes ,tires and steering oh and a safety inspection.
Ill tell you now my knowledge base has gotten a lot bigger over this experience and now what and where to look for problems for the next one that comes into my shop.
A big thanks goes out to all who have given advise and tried to help.
I know this is an older post I'm but just adding a bit of info about the EKA Code to help others in the future.
Thanks to No Doubt for this tidbit...
With a Foxwell NT510 multi system scanner, I was able to see and then change my 4 number EKA code (#3 EKA Programming in bottom right picture) to a code that I could remember...
08-08-2015 | 05:31 AM
