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The motor that was in the door when I began is the same one seen here:
original motor
and in the two shots from the Atlantic British DII Window Regulator video, the second of which shows it in the door connected to the harness.
AB How-To video AB How-to video showing connector
The left rear motor is identical, with the same 2-prong connector, but it has a 6" long cable which which plugs into the two prongs and to the harness at the other end. It is the same as the one in your photos. The new motor has the same cable as the rear motor, but it does not have the 2 prongs and cannot be unplugged from the motor.
I have already tried cutting the connectors off both the harness and new motor and splicing them together but the motor was unresponsive.
There is another connector inside the door at the very top right of the same type as the one into which the rear motor's and the new motors's 6" cables plugs. However, due to lack of space it is not possible to connect at the upper connection
I cannot follow the part in your reply about the B pillar. How would the motor in,the front door connect to the B-pillar?
I swapped out front and rear left side motors. .Now the driver's side front window operates normally and the seldom-used rear is not. I tried to use the new motor in the rear but it was unresponsive again. I cannot return it because I cut off the connector
Thanks for your advice.
My apologies about the B pillar. For some reason I had the rear motor in my head. I guess it's because I had be recently stripping out a number of rear doors from DI's and DII's. The wiring for the front motor goes out the door and in through the outer footwell panel. Somehow, your front window motor and harness were switched prior to your buying the truck because the front and rear motors for your model year were identical. You should't have had to go through all this trouble to simple replace the motor.
The driver's side front and rear doors had both been opened up prior to my ownership (and I am the 5th owner) so the motor may very well have been modified in some way.
Disco II Window Regulator Electrical Connectors Revisited
For future reference for those in this predicament, I just replaced the driver's side front window motor on my 2004 Disco II and had the same issue--replacement motor is wired for the '99-early02 trucks and my D2 had the connector on the motor cover. Was all set to cut & splice but before I did, I felt up above the opening for access to the motor wiring and lo and behold, felt a connector. Just a little out from the bottom right corner of the door handle is a white push pin that holds the connector in place. You can see it fairly clearly in the Atlantic British video at the 4:55 point. I pressed that out and sure enough, the connector is the female match to the male connector on the replacement motor and there is plenty of wire (almost too much) on the motor to reach it. The white push pin actually connects to the male part of the extension so I had to carefully take it off that and work it onto the connector at the end of the motor wire to reuse it. Long story short, the replacement motor is in with no wire cutting/splicing required. Now suddenly the driver's front door lock doesn't work. Between my D2 and my 2005 Saab, there's not shortage of auto mechanic OJT for me...
for future reference for those in this predicament, i just replaced the driver's side front window motor on my 2004 disco ii and had the same issue--replacement motor is wired for the '99-early02 trucks and my d2 had the connector on the motor cover. Was all set to cut & splice but before i did, i felt up above the opening for access to the motor wiring and lo and behold, felt a connector. Just a little out from the bottom right corner of the door handle is a white push pin that holds the connector in place. You can see it fairly clearly in the atlantic british video at the 4:55 point. I pressed that out and sure enough, the connector is the female match to the male connector on the replacement motor and there is plenty of wire (almost too much) on the motor to reach it. The white push pin actually connects to the male part of the extension so i had to carefully take it off that and work it onto the connector at the end of the motor wire to reuse it. Long story short, the replacement motor is in with no wire cutting/splicing required. Now suddenly the driver's front door lock doesn't work. Between my d2 and my 2005 saab, there's not shortage of auto mechanic ojt for me...
08-27-2018 | 09:29 AM
