Well... I THINK I've figured out the root cause, but does anyone know what a flashing odometer reading would indicate? I'd like to reset it so it'll stop flashing once I fully sort out my issue.

Some background, I was checking various harness connections and when I had the one for the instrument cluster open and put it back together I started seeing the entire power to the cluster dying, losing everything.... then all kinds of whacky things would happen. When I got home I started to take things apart and found that one of the pins had bent and poked through the plastic in the connector instead of the hole and this looks to be the cause (I'm about to go for a test drive now, intermittent problems are FUN!) I'm considering re-wiring the harness connectors using molex connectors and labeling the various bits to make repair a little easier.

I'm really hoping this goes away now. This would explain why unplugging and re-plugging that connector would sometimes make it work. I also saw all kinds of wacky stuff happen like the entire cluster stay lit after the key was removed, or flash when the lights were turned off, etc.

Anyone here really good with the electricals on a D2?

 

You might want to check with the dealers service dept. but I seem to remember they need to reprogram the cluster when unplugged or changed. Need to quit playing around with the wire harness, you will land up costing your self money you hadn't planned on spending.

 

Yeah, but my goal is to learn everything I can so I can field repair when needed. It's a bit frustrating. Every time I do something electrical the same thought comes to mind... damned Land Rover for not importing the Defender.

I'll go get the codes read and things checked over on Monday. I think I've got things sorted but if I see any more drop-outs I'll put in the new connector and be sure of it. Could always just use a single and bypass the one bent pin for now to prove it'll fix it. I'll deal with it tomorrow. I need to go to the dealer anyway since they need to adjust the hi-lo shifter they installed so it'll actually shift So far I haven't even come close to needing low range

 

Once the cluster has been removed you must have it synchronized with the BCM which like Mike stated is something the dealer must do, it takes them 5 mins to do depending on how busy they are…And you may not want to modify anything on the harness to much as it will end up causing you more problems than you may have had before, if you need a new cluster I have one that is in very excellent condition that I could send to you.. no charge… just pay for the shipping and its yours…

 

Thanks! I'm really hoping it's just the one bent pin that was at fault but if it's the cluster itself I'll absolutely take you up on your offer. If I pick up Testbook is the sync something I'll be able to do myself?

 

If memory servers (and this could be dealer hob bob) I was told that only their computers will be able to do it because they are Reading the Body Control Module, I was having some electrical issues with the BCM after I swaped out the cluster for a newer one and it turned out that my BCM got wet.. I think I remember someone on ebay selling software for the BCM but it was quite expensive

 

OK, now I think I'm in deep trouble. I haven't changed anything but when I put the steering column cover back on two of the purple ignition wires got crushed and shorted. It blew out the accessory fuse (radio etc) and when I turned my headlights on I lost the cluster but it would come back when I turned them off. Then when I took off the plug to fix the two damaged wires and put it back all hell broke loose. Now they're taped and connected but when I try to switch things on I get all kinds of flashing lights, dinging, random honks, and no starting at all... clicking from the shifter solenoid and flashing of all the shifter lamps at once.

Uh, help? I'm assuming the car thinks I tried to hotwire it. I'm very frustrated.

 

Well, for now I think things may be OK, but I'm absolutely re-wiring this beast. My plan is to use 40A solid state relays and the RigRunners's from http://www.westmountainradio.com/ hooked up to the ignition power and switches to allow me to turn on and off various components. Separating power to a number of internal components in a way that I can more easily figure out which is on which etc. That and it will get rid of the 15 or so in-line fuses in the system for the various accessories. I really wish they'd just put in an accessory fuse-box, but then even finding the RigRunner stuff was chance.

 

Hey, could a marginal relay in the bottom position in the cabin fuse box cause some of these symptoms?

 

If a stranger were to read your posts, I think the first thing that would come to them is you need to quit playing with your truck while you can still afford to have the dealer clear it up or before it burns up from a short.
Quit with the new fuses and relays, Rover may screw things up but before you started playing around the truck was fine.
When you get it back together go play on a really hard trail, get a great adrenilen, yes I know it is spelled wrong, rush and remember how good your truck is.