I'm starting to compare options for my D2 engine. I was looking at a Turner short block, but it is a little costly.

I was looking at Turners site and they sell a reman block casting with the liners. It's about half the cost as the short block. I'm just trying to judge what the level of effort would be for building it up from the block. After crank, pistons, etc would it really be that much of a cost savings? How difficult would that build actually be?

 

The rebuild is about as easy as it gets.
Just measure that the parts are in spec, and torque accordingly.
If the crank journals don't need machined and you can use stock crank and rod bearings, even better, as no machine shop costs.
I would highly recommend using a quality micrometer and bore gages too. If the block doesn't come with cam bearings, then add that cost plus the install tool.

 

The bore gage's are spring loaded and lock in place.
So you put them in to the torqued cap or rod, lock them down, remove, and mic the gage to check for the correct diameter.
These are not cheap, and the micrometer you use needs to be calibrated for accuracy. You are dealing in thousandths of an inch. Again, not hard, but important.

You can also use plastigage.
It's cheap, works, but isn't as accurate.
You're also building a low rpm small block, so you can get by. But, precision helps with longevity.

 

The question really is; what do you want?
A forever engine for a forever vehicle, with the least amount of work? Buy a Turner.
Or do you want something dependable, for the least amount of money? Then a 4.0 block from an early model, or a P38 4.6 seem to have the best track record.
The 4.0 and 4.6 block are also the same, with the same bore. The 4.6's extra displacement comes from the crank's longer stroke.
Right now I'm in the process of building my 4.6 in a 4.0 block. As After my 4.6 rebuild, 3 cylinders decided to seep coolant, the block cracked behind the liners.

Follow the Rave service manual, and with a few tools, you'll have no problem rebuilding it.
The timing gears only bolt to crank and cam one way, put chain on, rotate manually, and after a couple revolutions, the marks are either still right, or wrong. If wrong, try again. Plus, no distributor.
The only way to really screw it up is carelessness.

 

That's what I'm comparing costs for. For the cost of a Turner short block my wife would rather see me in an LR3. I was considering the block casting from them since it has top hat liners installed and help with any cracks behind the liner, right?

 

Oh, and measure the ring gaps, and make sure the gaps are in the right location. Put the rings in the bore and measure the gap with a feeler gage.
If the gap is too small, one end needs filed, and with a ring file tool, not a hand file.
It's simple and easy things like this that make or break a rebuild.

A break-in is generally a 20 minute run at 2k-2500 rpm to properly break in the cam.
Then dump the hot oil and replace the filter.
Get the new metal shavings out.

Heads
Valve seats need cleaned up with grinding paste, or new seats installed. Springs measured, new seals.
A reman set of heads is usually cheaper than machine shop fees plus any parts.

 

Yes, with o-ringed top hat liners, you won't have the liner leaks like my 4.6 does.

 

It's a tough decision.
But, with a Turner, your D2 will have higher resale.
People may laugh now, and say you can buy D2's cheap everywhere, but that won't last forever.
The frames rust away and they're crushed daily.
A quality D2 will be big bucks in the not so distant future.

 

I would buy this engine https://kansascity.craigslist.org/pt...994033772.html

Change out the head gaskets and water pump and put it in.

But I am cheap.

 

I wouldn't put in another LR engine unless it had top hat liners.