I'm leaving this forum and have deleted all my work in this thread.

 

If you have the money to buy a Hawkeye scanner just to read trouble codes then have it towed to the dealer to get fixed because obviously you have money.

It is your crank sensor that has failed, probably the number one problem with the DII.
There is a "how to" in the write up section, the part is about $65 at AutoZone.

If all you want to do it read and clear your own trouble codes you can buy a $30 scanner.
If you also want live data then buy a Ultra-Gauge, $80. I have one and I love it.

 

Here's a drawing of the mounting for the cranks sensor, look at yours and make sure every spacer goes back on the same way. Make sure that new spacer on unit is same size as old spacer (one for auto, another for manual transmission). Many have been replaced, then no crank, because spacer was slightly off.

You M&S lights were probably triggered by loose cable making volts to transmission ECU below about 9 volts, too low to operate transmission.

Ultra Gauge combines great gauges and a data reading scanner for like $70, won't do much for 3 Amigos.

 

Well the Hawkeye scanner is like $700 right?
I personally dont think it is worth the cost but that is me.
But you do have a good a good point about the ABS Amigo, only $500 more dollars and you could have the Hawkeye.

 

hawkeye are about $650 at AB, if you look they can be had for less ($500).
Along with engine and abs codes it also takes care SLS and ACE issues.

So if your truck has SLS & ACE and you get it for the correct price it may not be the worst money you spent.

You can come on here and people cant give there opinions/experence of what your SLS, ABS & ACE problems are or you can just read & test them.

Also i dont think anyone is going to come over to your house to pump your brakes when it is time to bleed them, after repairing your shuttle valve but hawkeye will.

I wont even go on about how it can activate every devise in your truck, fan, wiper, window, sunroofs, doorlock motors,TPS, ABS pump all front the seat of your truck.

There is also a section where you can get into programing stuff, but i keep away from that, nothing good can come from me programing anything.

If you have a DI or a lower end model it may not be needed, but if you truck is decked out and you plan on keeping it you might consider it.

 

First, never disconnect the battery to clear the codes. Why would you want to, even if you did clear them you would not fix anything nor know what is wrong with the engine.
Get the codes read and get back to us with the fault numbers, not what you think they mean and maybe we can help you.

 

Towing coverage on my truck is $12 per year and it covers the first $100.

 

re: just finished installing the new crank sensor and the Rover fired right back to life

Best sound in the garage ! Good job. I think I recall some saying it was esier to plug in new sensor before mounting.

 

This may not be the best place for this...but, it's the 1st place I got to...
I don't know a BOSCH from GEMS engine...but then I don't know what 90% of the SLS, ACE, etc are either ..so, excuse my ignorance...
Here's a interesting post I ran across Googling around looking for WINDSHIELD COLUMN MOUNT GAUGES( if anyone has a link/lead, it would be much appreiciated, though this link has a mount that sits on the dash)
As follows, oh, it's a swap from a GEMS 4.0 to a BOSCH 4.6:

Frankenrover - Swapping a Bosch D2 4.6 engine into a GEMS D1 Land Rover Discovery

 

One more thing about the swap, while I am a big fan of dual exhuast, this one is NOT good. Particularly if you live in any of the So. Western desert areas where the road temps get to the 140+degrees. The passenger side exhuast is way too close to the tire!
Personally, I don't want HOT exhaust anywhere near my tires. When combined road heat, highway speeds, "big" rubber and then add hot exhaust spells BLOWN-Up tires. At the very least you get accelerated tire wear.
Dump the duals out the back...