Engine Knock When Warm
Hey everyone,
I know this has been discussed many times but I can't find a concrete answer about my problem. I have a 2004 Disco II, 49k miles on it. Never overheated. Used to sit in a garage for 2-3 months and then driven for maybe a couple of weeks. This took place for about 3 years. There is a knocking sound coming from somewhere top of the engine (somewhere in the middle I think). I flushed the engine with GUNK and put new oil in - 10W40. There is no noise when I start the car up but once it warms up the noise starts up. Sometimes is pretty regular knock but lately its been jumping in tempo all over the place. Can I really have a slipped sleeve at less than 50k on the engine? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Alan
I know this has been discussed many times but I can't find a concrete answer about my problem. I have a 2004 Disco II, 49k miles on it. Never overheated. Used to sit in a garage for 2-3 months and then driven for maybe a couple of weeks. This took place for about 3 years. There is a knocking sound coming from somewhere top of the engine (somewhere in the middle I think). I flushed the engine with GUNK and put new oil in - 10W40. There is no noise when I start the car up but once it warms up the noise starts up. Sometimes is pretty regular knock but lately its been jumping in tempo all over the place. Can I really have a slipped sleeve at less than 50k on the engine? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Alan
Hi,
I was test driving a 2003 Discovery that a used car dealer was selling.
It had a tick when it was cold.
When it got hot - after driving it for 20 minutes - the tap was really loud and very metallic.
When listening - it was on the drivers' side - right smack in the middle of the engine.
Between the middle cylinders.
I think it was a loose liner slapping up and down.
I have heard -
2003 and 2004 engines are just plain bad with this liner problem.
The rover I test drove was a 2003.
The only way you will know - is to pull the engine apart.
I have a 2001 - which is supposedly a better engine. Same engine - but
quality was better..
Hoping your noise is just a lose tappet or such..
This noise I heard was a loud metallic tink, tink tink
after 20 minutes of driving.
And, you can hear it LOUD with the hood down.
IF that is your noise, you probably have a liner slapping.
There is no real way to figure it out unless you take the engine apart.
The liner is "gripping" the block when the engine is cold and not much noise.
When hot - the liner is free to move.
this link show some liners.
http://www.google.com/search?q=youtu...=hp&channel=np
I was test driving a 2003 Discovery that a used car dealer was selling.
It had a tick when it was cold.
When it got hot - after driving it for 20 minutes - the tap was really loud and very metallic.
When listening - it was on the drivers' side - right smack in the middle of the engine.
Between the middle cylinders.
I think it was a loose liner slapping up and down.
I have heard -
2003 and 2004 engines are just plain bad with this liner problem.
The rover I test drove was a 2003.
The only way you will know - is to pull the engine apart.
I have a 2001 - which is supposedly a better engine. Same engine - but
quality was better..
Hoping your noise is just a lose tappet or such..
This noise I heard was a loud metallic tink, tink tink
after 20 minutes of driving.
And, you can hear it LOUD with the hood down.
IF that is your noise, you probably have a liner slapping.
There is no real way to figure it out unless you take the engine apart.
The liner is "gripping" the block when the engine is cold and not much noise.
When hot - the liner is free to move.
this link show some liners.
http://www.google.com/search?q=youtu...=hp&channel=np
I'm in the same boat fellas with my O3'. These Disco's are a constant maintenance battle but I still really enjoy the drive. I know the word is out for debate on slipped liners causing this tick but from what I've seen, and I have a 4.6 block sitting right next to me, there is no room for the sleeve to move up or down. Plus if you've ever pushed a piston into a sleeve you would see the resistance is min. My thought is this sound most likely is driven by something in the valve train. I'm hoping to tear into my next month and will let you know what I uncover.
Cheers!!
Cheers!!
I have just resleeved mine and knocking is gone! Had the same problem, start up was fine but after it warmed up it would start to knock.
Having to work through some other issues regarding P-0441
and not passing smog test. CES light. Always something.
Having to work through some other issues regarding P-0441
and not passing smog test. CES light. Always something.
100% Proof that liners are moving at 'normal' operating temps & causing the tapping! - DiscoWeb Message Boards
And study the youtube vids at the bottom. As easily as a piston slides in a bore on it's own, the liner slides in the block just as, if not more easily when the block is at operating temperature...
The liner can't move lower than the lip at the bottom for sure, but some genius at Rover decided to put a taper, leaving a sharp lip at the top of the liner. This exerts such a small contact area (ie a high contact pressure) that it is inevitable - as/when the interference fit can't hold the liner in place - that it will start to make a small indent in the firing ring. After that, the liner can then move more, and has greater inertia to make a deeper indent - eventually it is plenty deep enough for it to make a nice tapping sound, deep in the engine.
I also rebuilt my engine with a new block - everything else from the heads, timing chain, cam, followers, pistons, was the same. I also have a quiet engine now!
Last edited by turbodave; Mar 29, 2012 at 07:33 AM.
There have been a few posts of late about pinning liners. Pinning sleeves, how to? Anybody? - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
No-one has (yet) tried it in the truck - but I believe it is do-able. If it works, this will be cheap to fix - just labor/time.
A block with TH liners will set you back $2k. Add another $1200 for parts like rings, shells, gaskets.
I would definately reccomend doing the check Mike suggested first. It could be pressure related.
No-one has (yet) tried it in the truck - but I believe it is do-able. If it works, this will be cheap to fix - just labor/time.
A block with TH liners will set you back $2k. Add another $1200 for parts like rings, shells, gaskets.
I would definately reccomend doing the check Mike suggested first. It could be pressure related.
Last edited by turbodave; Mar 29, 2012 at 01:45 PM.


