I understand, I had the seafoam in there with the engine oil not just the seafoam, common sense would tell you that's a bad idea and I'm going to change the oil after 500 miles.

 

You would be surprised at how many people have zero common sense.

 

I read thru this thread last night and briefed it a bit today. I didn't see anyone link to this thread. Several people put video (me included) of their disco noises there. I listened to mine again and it didn't sound as pronounced as yours, but I think it's the camera. As so as I watched your video I thought it was exactly the same.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...nd-like-39420/

For the most part i'm not sure what "fixed" mine. I had a coolant leak for a while down the back of the engine. I did head gaskets myself on it. Under the valve covers was a mess. Bad sludge. The machinist went thru them and cleaned them and I re- assembled the engine. Since then I started using the mobile 1 filter (301 i think) and the shell rotella. I'm hoping that over time it will scrub the rest of the engine.

The tick is for the most part gone. Like 90 to 95 percent gone. I haven't heard it in quite a while (maybe 2000 miles) and just the other day it was super hot outside and wife came home and it was ticking.

Good luck,

Scott

 

Ok, I want you guys with the noisy engines to start paying attention to GM cars with the 3.1L V6.
Every time you see a car that has one listen to the engine if possible.
Hell, go to a used car lot and test drive a late '90's Olds, Pontiac, or Buick that has one.
Cutlass Ciera, Cutlass Supreme, Buick Century, etc.
Most of their mini vans have that engine as well.
It will be noisy like you guys trucks.
I bought a '95 Cutlass Ciera brand new, it made that noise from its very first oil change right up until I sold it 120,000 miles later.
And it still made that noise 2 years after that (sold it to my wifes aunt)
I also had a '98 Cutlass Supreme with the same engine, bought that with 75,000 miles on it and it made the same noise as the '95. (I used be be a Oldsmobile man)
It sounded like ball bearings rolling around in the crank case.
Before I bought the Supreme I had a '86 Chevy Celebrity Wagon with the 2.8L V6, exact same engine as the 3.1 (just like Rover with the 4.0 and 4.6) and it did not make the noise, even with 200k on it.
So, in conclusion start paying attention to other cars around you and see if they make a similar noise.
I'm not saying the noise is normal for this engine, I'm just saying...

 

Sorta like the Dodge Caravan of the 80's and 90's laying down a blanket of smoke while going down the road. I get it about the noises they make. Suppose they all have their issues. I worried a bunch when mine started. Oil pump in 03's, the tick, head gaskets.

Since i'm no longer leaking coolant, I just drive it. Much more fun that way. Still no regrets on our purchase!

This forum helped me a bunch

Thanks,

Scott

 

98% of those Dodge owners did not know/care that their vans required mid grade gas and it ruined their engines, my grandma had a '97 Dodge Intrepid, she used mid grade and after 150,000 miles it still did not smoke.
A friend of mine bought a '00 Intrepid and did not use mid grade and it smoked within 80,000 miles.
Dodge uses Mitsubishi engines and they require premium, but Dodge knew know one would use premium so they said to use mid grade, of course know one did.
My '01 Montero that I bought brand new had the 3.5L V6, same engine in the Intrepid, Caravan, etc. and after 100k of using only premium no smoke.
Every single Dodge on the road with a Mitsubishi engine blows smoke like the Bismark trying to hide from The Hood.

 

[QUOTE=Spike555;251318]
You have to agree that is better than filling your engine with ATF and idling it for a half hour./QUOTE]

Of course using a cup of MMO in the oil is better than a FULL CRANK CASE OF ATF. What a ridiculous thing to try - who even suggested such a thing?

My point is that ATF does that same job in the same proportions as MMO for cleaning out the crank case and oil passages. Probably even better, since it has a detergent package in it unlike MMO, which is just a bunch of light hydrocarbons.....because was intended to clean carbon out of fuel systems, intakes, and piston tops of carbureted vehicles so it had to be less lubricant and more flammable since it needed to be in the fuel tank.

Also, it's less than 1/2 the price, and something the average garage mechanic is going to have a stock of sitting around.

Did I seriously miss somewhere in this thread where someone did/was going to fill an entire crank case with ATF? If so, obviously they misunderstood how people have been doing this for years.

 

I had a coolant leak too! I fixed it though (the "throttle housing return pipe" had a crack in it) and it wasn't that hard to figure out or repair. Now that I have good synthetic oil, a good K&N oil filter, and fresh yellow coolant in the engine, as sbaldwin said: "I'm just gonna drive it!" Considering it still runs great and I don't have to add oil, I'm not gonna worry.

 

[QUOTE=DarylJ;251369]I knew ATF had a good detergent package but I did not know it was better than MMO.
Again I am not a fan of nor do I advocate additives unless you have a serious problem and are on your last resort.

And yes, somewhere on the forum there are lots of people who fill their crank case with ATF, idle for 15-20 min, then do a complete oil change.
I'm not sure where they got this advice, but I do not understand why in the hell anyone would not question such a thing, ATF is not a lubricating oil.
But people do it.

I understand needing to clean out a engine, especially one that you do not know the history of and that is why I say to use diesel oil, it has a very high detergent package and it will clean the engine slowly as you drive.
Full synthetics also have a high detergent package but they cost twice as much.

 

Good to hear, lifes to short to sweat the small stuff, hell, the only time I sweat is when...well, never mind.