engine knocking worse after atf flush and seafoam induction cleaning
#11
RE: engine knocking worse after atf flush and seafoam induction cleaning
From what I've read, the hardest part with installing a oil pressure gauge is finding a fitting with the correct thread pitch.The thread pitch for the oil pressure switch is not a common pitch. Here's a link on how I created my own fitting.
https://landroverforums.com/m_72995/tm.htm
Is your oil pressure light coming on? I think the light comes on between 5-7psi.If your light is not on, then you have a faulty oil pressure switch and/or circuit. For your engine to be knocking you are probably under the 5psi range.
Regardless if you hook up a oil pressure gauge, you need to drop the oil pan to inspect the oil pick-up tube. Dropping the oil pan is pretty straightforward. You might have to remove or lower the front sway bar in order to drop the pan.
Even with 30 weight oil I wouldn't recommend driving until this issue is corrected.
https://landroverforums.com/m_72995/tm.htm
Is your oil pressure light coming on? I think the light comes on between 5-7psi.If your light is not on, then you have a faulty oil pressure switch and/or circuit. For your engine to be knocking you are probably under the 5psi range.
Regardless if you hook up a oil pressure gauge, you need to drop the oil pan to inspect the oil pick-up tube. Dropping the oil pan is pretty straightforward. You might have to remove or lower the front sway bar in order to drop the pan.
Even with 30 weight oil I wouldn't recommend driving until this issue is corrected.
#12
RE: engine knocking worse after atf flush and seafoam induction cleaning
No the light isn't coming on.
So, if the light isn't comingon that means i just need a new switch or circuit, or both? What does the switch do? What does the circuit do? It's not throwing any codes, would a bad switch or circuitcreate one?
No store near me has a pan gasket so I have to order one,you think I should go ahead and order a switch and a circuit in the process?
So, if the light isn't comingon that means i just need a new switch or circuit, or both? What does the switch do? What does the circuit do? It's not throwing any codes, would a bad switch or circuitcreate one?
No store near me has a pan gasket so I have to order one,you think I should go ahead and order a switch and a circuit in the process?
#13
RE: engine knocking worse after atf flush and seafoam induction cleaning
First what weight oil are you using?
When you turn the key on with out starting is the oil light on? if so it works.
You may have fouled a spark plug with the Seafoam.
You may have had a fouled plug already.
The other things have been covered.
The exhaust manifold on Disco I's will loosen up and need to
be tightened up ever so often check that first before replacing it.
When you turn the key on with out starting is the oil light on? if so it works.
You may have fouled a spark plug with the Seafoam.
You may have had a fouled plug already.
The other things have been covered.
The exhaust manifold on Disco I's will loosen up and need to
be tightened up ever so often check that first before replacing it.
#14
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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RE: engine knocking worse after atf flush and seafoam induction cleaning
Have you changed your oil again 1000 miles after doing your ATF flush like you're suppose to?? If not, before going all out and start doing extensive work, drain your oil, change your filter and use 10w30 or 40 and see what happens.
#15
RE: engine knocking worse after atf flush and seafoam induction cleaning
1: Knocking that goes away as engine speed increases is textbook for wiped out bottom end bearings.
2: The only time I have ever used a flush in an engine, I broke the crankshaft shortly thereafter.
3: The oil pressure switch is plastic, not ceramic. They do fail, but, the wiring to it does as well.
4: Autometer makes an adapter they incorrectly refer to as a"Metric" oil pressure adapter. If memory serves, it is their part number 2869 and should cost about $10. Available overnight to most places from Summit racing.
5: DIs should not use an oil pan gasket. As hard as it is to believe, Right Stuff really is the right stuff for this application. The only time I used a gasket on a DI oil pan, it leaked like a sieve. I've never had a problem with the Right Stuff, except paying for it :-).
6: Worst case, I have a 4.0 crankshaft that is at the worst, usable, probably needs to be turned, I can make you a screaming deal on it, as it was presented to me as being a 4.6 and I have no need for another 4.0 crankshaft!
7: These engines will survive quite well with oil pressure that would seem frightening to most. As my engine machinist put it "you don't need much to keep those parts separated at idle. GM has been making engines for 20 years that barely produce 5 psi at idle!". He builds engines for a living and hasn't misled me in the nearly 30 years he's been doing my machine work for me.
Good luck, but it doesn't look good for our heroes.
PT
2: The only time I have ever used a flush in an engine, I broke the crankshaft shortly thereafter.
3: The oil pressure switch is plastic, not ceramic. They do fail, but, the wiring to it does as well.
4: Autometer makes an adapter they incorrectly refer to as a"Metric" oil pressure adapter. If memory serves, it is their part number 2869 and should cost about $10. Available overnight to most places from Summit racing.
5: DIs should not use an oil pan gasket. As hard as it is to believe, Right Stuff really is the right stuff for this application. The only time I used a gasket on a DI oil pan, it leaked like a sieve. I've never had a problem with the Right Stuff, except paying for it :-).
6: Worst case, I have a 4.0 crankshaft that is at the worst, usable, probably needs to be turned, I can make you a screaming deal on it, as it was presented to me as being a 4.6 and I have no need for another 4.0 crankshaft!
7: These engines will survive quite well with oil pressure that would seem frightening to most. As my engine machinist put it "you don't need much to keep those parts separated at idle. GM has been making engines for 20 years that barely produce 5 psi at idle!". He builds engines for a living and hasn't misled me in the nearly 30 years he's been doing my machine work for me.
Good luck, but it doesn't look good for our heroes.
PT
#16
RE: engine knocking worse after atf flush and seafoam induction cleaning
Hey guys, thanks for all the input. I used 5w30 when I changed the oil out after the flush. I haven't even had time to drive 1000 miles yet. :-) Maybe 150-200 miles so far. And I just replaced the plugs a week ago with platinum 4s.It was knocking before and after I changed the plugs, so I don't know if that's it, butI'll pull the plugs to see if one of them fouled up after the seafoam cleaning . Now in response to the comments:
1: Knocking that goes away as engine speed increases is textbook for wiped out bottom end bearings.
What are those, where are they, how would you find out if that is the problem, etc?
2: The only time I have ever used a flush in an engine, I broke the crankshaft shortly thereafter.
Suck
3: The oil pressure switch is plastic, not ceramic. They do fail, but, the wiring to it does as well.
4: Autometer makes an adapter they incorrectly refer to as a"Metric" oil pressure adapter. If memory serves, it is their part number 2869 and should cost about $10. Available overnight to most places from Summit racing.
I'll check this out
5: DIs should not use an oil pan gasket. As hard as it is to believe, Right Stuff really is the right stuff for this application. The only time I used a gasket on a DI oil pan, it leaked like a sieve. I've never had a problem with the Right Stuff, except paying for it :-).
Yeah, that's what a land rover tech told me when I went to buy the gasket on Friday.
6: Worst case, I have a 4.0 crankshaft that is at the worst, usable, probably needs to be turned, I can make you a screaming deal on it, as it was presented to me as being a 4.6 and I have no need for another 4.0 crankshaft!
Go ahead and PM me your price, just in case :-(
7: These engines will survive quite well with oil pressure that would seem frightening to most. As my engine machinist put it "you don't need much to keep those parts separated at idle. GM has been making engines for 20 years that barely produce 5 psi at idle!". He builds engines for a living and hasn't misled me in the nearly 30 years he's been doing my machine work for me.
So, first thing, have the psi checked, if it's below 5, WEEEEEEeeeeeeee, death. :-)
Good luck, but it doesn't look good for our heroes.
PT
1: Knocking that goes away as engine speed increases is textbook for wiped out bottom end bearings.
What are those, where are they, how would you find out if that is the problem, etc?
2: The only time I have ever used a flush in an engine, I broke the crankshaft shortly thereafter.
Suck
3: The oil pressure switch is plastic, not ceramic. They do fail, but, the wiring to it does as well.
4: Autometer makes an adapter they incorrectly refer to as a"Metric" oil pressure adapter. If memory serves, it is their part number 2869 and should cost about $10. Available overnight to most places from Summit racing.
I'll check this out
5: DIs should not use an oil pan gasket. As hard as it is to believe, Right Stuff really is the right stuff for this application. The only time I used a gasket on a DI oil pan, it leaked like a sieve. I've never had a problem with the Right Stuff, except paying for it :-).
Yeah, that's what a land rover tech told me when I went to buy the gasket on Friday.
6: Worst case, I have a 4.0 crankshaft that is at the worst, usable, probably needs to be turned, I can make you a screaming deal on it, as it was presented to me as being a 4.6 and I have no need for another 4.0 crankshaft!
Go ahead and PM me your price, just in case :-(
7: These engines will survive quite well with oil pressure that would seem frightening to most. As my engine machinist put it "you don't need much to keep those parts separated at idle. GM has been making engines for 20 years that barely produce 5 psi at idle!". He builds engines for a living and hasn't misled me in the nearly 30 years he's been doing my machine work for me.
So, first thing, have the psi checked, if it's below 5, WEEEEEEeeeeeeee, death. :-)
Good luck, but it doesn't look good for our heroes.
PT
#18
RE: engine knocking worse after atf flush and seafoam induction cleaning
Stop using the truck, do not start it again. It is obvious, by your posts, that you are not at all mechanical and shouldn"t be the one to find/fix the problem, nothing personel, just the way it is and if you land up trashing the engine while trying different thing, you'll be looking for a new engine.
Find a good mechanic and have it towed.
Find a good mechanic and have it towed.
#19
RE: engine knocking worse after atf flush and seafoam induction cleaning
I have to agree with Mike, this problem is way above your head. Do yourself a favor, hurry up and put an oil pressure gauge on your engine. Once you get the correct fitting, installing a oil pressure gauge is pretty straight forward. If you can't install the gauge, pay someone to do so. Once you havethe oil pressure reading, you'll have a better idea what's happening with your engine andwhich route to go. At this pointwe're throwing all types of possibilitiesand you have no idea what we're saying.
#20
RE: engine knocking worse after atf flush and seafoam induction cleaning
Well despite the fact that it was brutal, I do appreciate the honesty. I would have just continued to work on it and probably eventually messed it up. I'm having the Disco towed on Saturday to a euro mechanic near Road Atlanta. I'll keep you guys informed of what the diagnosis is.