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Engine overheats when AC on

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  #11  
Old 05-02-2016 | 01:10 PM
jamieb's Avatar
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From: Wylie, TX
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Originally Posted by sayeedA
Jamie (assuming this is your name)

Wylie, TX? you got some good lakes there.
I have all the tools in the world. I was trying to see if anyone had the similar experience. Overheats only when AC is on and hot outside. do we know if there are any fuses for the fan circuit?

Thanks
Yes, pretty decent lakes, I am converting my D2 from a daily driver to outdoor adventure truck. Bigger tires, roof rack for bikes, kayaks etc.

As far as the A/C, sure the temp comes up a bit with the a/c but it should definitely not overheat. If that were the case, temps in Texas get to 115F to 120F in summer. The truck has to stay cool even in those extreme temps. That said, engines are made to handle a load and that compressor is not that much of a load in the grand scheme of things.
 
  #12  
Old 05-02-2016 | 01:24 PM
cappedup's Avatar
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From: Putnam county. NY.
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Whip the belt off and see how the AC pump feels. I'd want to know its not massively dragging.


I wouldn't be starting my vehicle if it wasn't hooked up to a temp gauge in your position. Regardless of what is causing the spikes.

Originally Posted by sayeedA
Jamie (assuming this is your name)

Wylie, TX? you got some good lakes there.
I have all the tools in the world. I was trying to see if anyone had the similar experience. Overheats only when AC is on and hot outside. do we know if there are any fuses for the fan circuit?

Thanks
 
  #13  
Old 05-02-2016 | 01:34 PM
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From: Dallas, TX
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Originally Posted by sayeedA
Yes I am using the Dash Temperature gauge. Goes close to red. what other method can you check? I can't take risk driving if overheating. I have a temperate measure probe on my multi-meter.

Thanks
Gaaaah, your engine block hasn't cracked straight in half? my hose blew off on the way to work. it was raining so I didn't see the steam, but checked my handy digital computer just in time to see the coolant temp at 225. And the dash gauge for engine temp hadn't even started to think about moving. You're going to **** yourself royally by using that dash gauge but when your catastrophic engine failure happens, thats on you because any member of this board should know better.
 
  #14  
Old 05-02-2016 | 07:43 PM
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From: Coastal Georgia
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Info from WM:
Electric cooling fan switching points:
For A/C system:
⇒ On When vehicle speed is 50 mph (80 km/h) or less and ambient
temperature is 28 °C (82 °F) or more
⇒ Off When vehicle speed increases to (62.5 mph (100 km/h) or ambient
temperature decreases to 25 °C (77 °F)
For engine cooling during normal running:
⇒ On 100 °C (212 °F)
⇒ Off 94.5 °C (202 °F)
For engine cooling at ignition off (to counteract heat
soak):
⇒ On If, within 10 seconds of ignition off, intake air temperature is 60 °C (140
°F) or more and engine coolant temperature is 110 °C (230 °F) or more
⇒ Off After 10 minutes or if engine coolant temperature decreases to 100 °C
(212 °F)
......
 
  #15  
Old 05-02-2016 | 07:56 PM
sayeedA's Avatar
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From: Austin, TX
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Originally Posted by number9
Info from WM:......
Thanks. I just opened the front the radiator is clean like new (no debris).
Checked the Fan directly connected to battery works fine.


By the way I have not checked to see if the fan is running when hot yet. I am trying to cover all the basics before I start the other tests.

I will definitely test the Viscous Fan Clutch when hot tomorrow. I replaced this fan with a after market fan worked good for 2-3 years. Not sure now. checking fans while hot and cold would be my tests for tomorrow.

Is there a fuse associated with the fan? could it be the temperature sensor?
 
  #16  
Old 05-02-2016 | 08:30 PM
number9's Avatar
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From: Coastal Georgia
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Is there a fuse associated with the fan?
F5 - 40 A - All Cooling fan relay.
Yes and relay #5 both in eng box.
......
 
  #17  
Old 05-02-2016 | 08:36 PM
sayeedA's Avatar
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From: Austin, TX
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Originally Posted by number9
Yes and relay #5 both in eng box.
......
Thank you. I am reading over the Rave manual tonight on this. Have not run in the fuse or relay area yet.
 
  #18  
Old 05-02-2016 | 09:40 PM
Charlie_V's Avatar
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From: Longview, Texas
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Looks like this is well in hand, but if nothing pans out a moon shot is: defective idle air control valve can cause the engine to bog with additional accessory drag, and, theoretically, raise your temps.

I can't remember where Wylie is. Oh yeah, just checked. I got lost off of 380 headed west once and had dinner in Wylie. Nice town. I spent the whole dinner looking at ads for lake property. Then I got in my truck and ended up back in Longview.
 

Last edited by Charlie_V; 05-02-2016 at 09:43 PM.
  #19  
Old 05-02-2016 | 10:57 PM
jamieb's Avatar
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From: Wylie, TX
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Originally Posted by Charlie_V

I can't remember where Wylie is. Oh yeah, just checked. I got lost off of 380 headed west once and had dinner in Wylie. Nice town. I spent the whole dinner looking at ads for lake property. Then I got in my truck and ended up back in Longview.
Wylie is pretty well situated. We're as far east as you can get in the DFW metroplex before you're standing next to cows. 15 minutes north of Rockwall, 15 minutes east of Plano. Growing like crazy.
 
  #20  
Old 05-02-2016 | 11:20 PM
sayeedA's Avatar
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From: Austin, TX
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Originally Posted by jamieb
Wylie is pretty well situated. We're as far east as you can get in the DFW metroplex before you're standing next to cows. 15 minutes north of Rockwall, 15 minutes east of Plano. Growing like crazy.
Wylie is well situated with lakes something the other side of Dallas area does not have. I never realized how close you are from all the commotions of Plano and other areas. I went to College in the early 80's in UT Arlington. Richardson was considered North Dallas and plano was cow country then.
 


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