Engine Rebuild
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4wd Low
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Engine Rebuild
First off this is my first post. I traded in a 2000 Jeep Wrangler for a 2004 Disco back in 2007 when my daughter was born so that my wife would have her dream car. Since then the Disco spent a lot of time in the shop for the usual-SES: O2 sensors for the most part...when the initial warranty ran out, I extended it and it lasted me to 2009/2010. Once the extended warranty ran out, I had to fix the fuel pump, plugs, wires, steering pump, then I had a SES that wouldn't seem to go away and finally I got the dreaded "the car was in the red and I kept driving it" phone call from the wife!After the overheating/coolant everywhere/blown T-stat episode, my wife said, "trash it, I don't care, I'm getting a reliable Nissan."
Not wanting to give up, I had it at my Indy shop who replaced the T-stat, but when he would drive it, coolant would eventually leak out of the engine in multiple places. He said we could do HG and that may fix it but he couldn't guarantee that was the problem. After struggling with it for over a month, I decided to just pick it because $2500 in a "might fix it" situation didn't sit well with me plus I began to have grand dreams of getting a Turner, Robeson, or Cannibal engine down the road.
After reading more forums, I found a place called Authorized Imported Cars in Flemington, NJ. It appears they have been in business for over 30 years and they work primarily on Jags and Rovers. I gave them a ring and spoke with the owner George and immediately knew I had to have them look at the Disco.
After about a week at the shop, George gave me the verdict that the fact that coolant was leaking in the middle of the engine things weren't right...that and the engine tapping lead him to believe the inevitable cracked block/slipped sleeve 4.6 LR syndrome (90k miles with a severe overheat + driving it when it was overheated although only 6-12 miles with the engine counting off twice) ...I needed a new engine...
So I went to Authorized Imported Cars and painfully discussed the options and then he showed me one of his "bulletproof" blocks...so like must of you I've only seen the rebuilds on this site and seeing one up-close was inspiring. We discussed priced and as you all know, it wasn't going to be cheap. I now struggled with the idea of putting more money into the Disco than it was probably worth. 2-weeks went by (2-weeks of cramming my family into my wife's new Juke for day trips to the beach) and I decided to do the unthinkable, I was going to trade in my 2001 740i BMW (my dream car-only 103k miles) + cash to get the Authorized Imported Cars "bulletproof engine."
As you can imagine, I'm excited about getting the Disco back yet bummed out that I'm losing the 740i at the same time. It should be done by the end if this week and I'll update later...in the meantime if you want to see pics of the install they're on George's/Authorized Facebook page...
PS-for anyone who has put in a rebuilt/top hat engine...how's it going? Any issues?
Not wanting to give up, I had it at my Indy shop who replaced the T-stat, but when he would drive it, coolant would eventually leak out of the engine in multiple places. He said we could do HG and that may fix it but he couldn't guarantee that was the problem. After struggling with it for over a month, I decided to just pick it because $2500 in a "might fix it" situation didn't sit well with me plus I began to have grand dreams of getting a Turner, Robeson, or Cannibal engine down the road.
After reading more forums, I found a place called Authorized Imported Cars in Flemington, NJ. It appears they have been in business for over 30 years and they work primarily on Jags and Rovers. I gave them a ring and spoke with the owner George and immediately knew I had to have them look at the Disco.
After about a week at the shop, George gave me the verdict that the fact that coolant was leaking in the middle of the engine things weren't right...that and the engine tapping lead him to believe the inevitable cracked block/slipped sleeve 4.6 LR syndrome (90k miles with a severe overheat + driving it when it was overheated although only 6-12 miles with the engine counting off twice) ...I needed a new engine...
So I went to Authorized Imported Cars and painfully discussed the options and then he showed me one of his "bulletproof" blocks...so like must of you I've only seen the rebuilds on this site and seeing one up-close was inspiring. We discussed priced and as you all know, it wasn't going to be cheap. I now struggled with the idea of putting more money into the Disco than it was probably worth. 2-weeks went by (2-weeks of cramming my family into my wife's new Juke for day trips to the beach) and I decided to do the unthinkable, I was going to trade in my 2001 740i BMW (my dream car-only 103k miles) + cash to get the Authorized Imported Cars "bulletproof engine."
As you can imagine, I'm excited about getting the Disco back yet bummed out that I'm losing the 740i at the same time. It should be done by the end if this week and I'll update later...in the meantime if you want to see pics of the install they're on George's/Authorized Facebook page...
PS-for anyone who has put in a rebuilt/top hat engine...how's it going? Any issues?
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Marin County, California
I am at the same difficult crossroads w/ my disco - coolant leak, pressure in the coolant system - presumptive slipped liner=trashed engine. I don't know what happened to my capacity for rational thought...I now am considering the absurd as well, that being putting a new, rebuilt or used engine in it costing more than what the truck is worth.
What more do you know about these "bulletproof" blocks? Why are they referred to as such? Do they utilize the same inefficient tack weld/adhesive on the liners that are so notoriously susceptible to dropping when overheated? Are the walls between the cylinders thicker? Anything more you can share about your situation and what you have learned would be greatly appreciated!
Good luck with your Rover!
What more do you know about these "bulletproof" blocks? Why are they referred to as such? Do they utilize the same inefficient tack weld/adhesive on the liners that are so notoriously susceptible to dropping when overheated? Are the walls between the cylinders thicker? Anything more you can share about your situation and what you have learned would be greatly appreciated!
Good luck with your Rover!
Mudding
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 155
Likes: 1
I am at the same difficult crossroads w/ my disco - coolant leak, pressure in the coolant system - presumptive slipped liner=trashed engine. I don't know what happened to my capacity for rational thought...I now am considering the absurd as well, that being putting a new, rebuilt or used engine in it costing more than what the truck is worth.
What more do you know about these "bulletproof" blocks? Why are they referred to as such? Do they utilize the same inefficient tack weld/adhesive on the liners that are so notoriously susceptible to dropping when overheated? Are the walls between the cylinders thicker? Anything more you can share about your situation and what you have learned would be greatly appreciated!
Good luck with your Rover!
What more do you know about these "bulletproof" blocks? Why are they referred to as such? Do they utilize the same inefficient tack weld/adhesive on the liners that are so notoriously susceptible to dropping when overheated? Are the walls between the cylinders thicker? Anything more you can share about your situation and what you have learned would be greatly appreciated!
Good luck with your Rover!
Below is a pic of flanged and non flanged blocks that I have and you'll noticed how wide the flanged surface is were the head gasket will seal.
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Mudding
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 155
Likes: 1
Wow memory lane, I had a Hutch ProStar and loved it. Its crazy to think that after 2 1/2 decades later the guy who bought mine still has it.
