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Engine rebuild... my turn to have fun!!

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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #21  
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Here's a tip for placing the heads on the block:
Take one or 2 old short head bolts and cut off the bolt head, then cut a slot for a screw driver. Screw the cut off bolt(s) into one of the lower corner holes. Place the head over the bolt(s) and use the bolts to guide the head onto the pins - no more messing about getting the heads to sit on the pins. Screw the bolts out with a screw driver.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 12:11 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Bundu
Here's a tip for placing the heads on the block:
Take one or 2 old short head bolts and cut off the bolt head, then cut a slot for a screw driver. Screw the cut off bolt(s) into one of the lower corner holes. Place the head over the bolt(s) and use the bolts to guide the head onto the pins - no more messing about getting the heads to sit on the pins. Screw the bolts out with a screw driver.
Thanks for the tip. Think I'll use four bolts (2 on each end) and that way it will slide on evenly.

Eric
 
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 12:16 PM
  #23  
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I used 2, they work well.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 03:32 PM
  #24  
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i went by the machinest that is going to do my heads. $190.00 for valve job and shaving the heads. Pretty good price. Will look at my block also so i am going to pull it. He said there was some merit to the extra turning of the longer bolt and that LR even had some updated torquing procedure that he would give me. A bulleten or something. He also showed me custom head shims that he makes like at .002 that go on the block and then the headgasket and then the head that solve some issues with these problem blocks. $50.00 a wack. As for the head stud question , he said not a good idea as somethng has got to give. When i drop my heads and block off i will update..

Thanks Chris
 
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 07:51 PM
  #25  
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While I'm waiting for the heads, I ordered up a few missing parts. (Valve Covers, Trans dipstick, coolant tank to radiator hose, etc) Also looking at that missing freeze plug and figure the best way to get at it is to remove the exhaust manifold from the pipe. (better than pulling the block) While looking things over I have a few questions:
1) Should I drop the oil pan and clean it out? Or should I use an engine flush once I get it running?
2) On the back of the block (drivers side) there's a hole (about 1 1/2" diameter) where I can see the flywheel. I'm guessing there should be a plug there?
3) Underneath the body (by front passenger door) there's a wiring harness (4 wires: looks like 2 yellow, 1 orange, 1 black) that is fastened to the floorpan. Just curious what it might go to? I'm guessing it's for an "option" I don't have

Now 2 STUPID questions (Sorry, I HAVE to ask )
1) Where does the transmission dipstick go in? passenger side?
2) Where does the oil dipstick go in?
Apparently, the mechanic lost them as they're not in with the rest of the parts so I had to order them.

Eric
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 09:21 PM
  #26  
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Got a call from the machine shop. Told me the drivers side head is warped but it can be saved! Everything else was good (pressure test, no cracks) so I can pick them up Monday!

Eric
 
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 07:36 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by SDinDS
1) Should I drop the oil pan and clean it out? Or should I use an engine flush once I get it running?
2) On the back of the block (drivers side) there's a hole (about 1 1/2" diameter) where I can see the flywheel. I'm guessing there should be a plug there?
3) Underneath the body (by front passenger door) there's a wiring harness (4 wires: looks like 2 yellow, 1 orange, 1 black) that is fastened to the floorpan. Just curious what it might go to? I'm guessing it's for an "option" I don't have

Now 2 STUPID questions (Sorry, I HAVE to ask )
1) Where does the transmission dipstick go in? passenger side?
2) Where does the oil dipstick go in?
1. Drop the pan and clean it and also clean the oil pickup, put a new oil pan gasket on. Do not flush your engine.
2. There are 2 big black rubber grommets that go on either side of the oil pan, if its missing then its time to visit a dealer and get new ones. These holes will leave your bell housing open to mud and crud and stuff.
3. Dunno, have not looked there.

Now the stupid answers
1. Hang the transmission dipstick from the rearview mirror. The real answer is a D2 does not have one, so you can use it for decoration.
2. You set yourself up for a good one here, it goes in the dipstick tube on the left side of the engine.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 07:55 AM
  #28  
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2. You set yourself up for a good one here, it goes in the dipstick tube on the left side of the engine.



You sure did....you ....."dipstick"
 
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 12:28 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Bundu
Now the stupid answers
1. Hang the transmission dipstick from the rearview mirror. The real answer is a D2 does not have one, so you can use it for decoration.
Really? How the heck am I suppose to check the fluid?


Originally Posted by vandev
2. You set yourself up for a good one here, it goes in the dipstick tube on the left side of the engine.



You sure did....you ....."dipstick"
lol... i should have been more clear. There's NO dipstick or tube. I looked on the drivers side and don't see a hole (unless they plugged it to keep crap out.)

Eric
 
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 12:29 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by vandev
i went by the machinest that is going to do my heads. $190.00 for valve job and shaving the heads. Pretty good price. Will look at my block also so i am going to pull it. He said there was some merit to the extra turning of the longer bolt and that LR even had some updated torquing procedure that he would give me. A bulleten or something. He also showed me custom head shims that he makes like at .002 that go on the block and then the headgasket and then the head that solve some issues with these problem blocks. $50.00 a wack. As for the head stud question , he said not a good idea as somethng has got to give. When i drop my heads and block off i will update..

Thanks Chris
Got an update yet?
 
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