I would tell you to stay away because you have no idea what each wire does and it's values. By splicing the wires, you are going to be chaining the wire values and in turn how different sensors and the ECU will perform. Call Paul.

 

Yup. I agree. Although I'm tempted to go with the splice. If the harness goes in easy enough I won't have to pay the mechanic and I'll save a lot of time and worry. Paul's on the hunt on the D2 coming into the shop any minute now.

 

and buy a bag of zipties

 

For single conductor wire, as long as you stay same diameter (gauge) or larger, you will not electrically impact the sensors. The sensors are in many cases hundereds or even thousands of ohms, while 16 gauge wire, as an example, has ohms per foot of 0.00402 ohms. So adding an extra few inches or feet won't even be noticed.

BTW - we always thought your truck was Smokin'

 

Just to give you a idea, that wire harness from Roverland is not new, a new engine wire harness for one of our Chevy vans at work...$2500.
That is for a 1998 Chevy 1-ton with a gas V8.
If a wire harness for a Chevy is $2500...how much is a new one for a Rover going to be?

 

Slang,

One of my first jobs was wiring industrial control centers. Basicaly a big steel box that you walked inside to work on, a little smaller than a C container. 35,000 - 45,000 feet of wire, terminals, connections, relays, lights, switches, etc. All planned out by some engineer. But final assembly and test was all me using their blue prints. I worked my way thru college (at Big Chicken Univ across the street from Lockheed), did not know very much except how to use a meter and solder. That was over 40 years ago, and as dumb as I was then (not that I'm much improved); you can do better.

But start by taking off both sides of the battery when working. I'd leave battery connected between work hours and float charged so ECU, BCM, and IDM don't forget each other.

 

I bet you all just went outside and looked under your hood to make sure that electrical tape is still tightly wrapped around the wire loom and zip tied away from the exhaust. I know I sure did.

God luck w/ the repair. Patience is your friend and will get you through this.

 

Haha, you bet I did!

 

OMG.
No Biggie my friend.
That harness will be fly in no time at all.

Strip, slip on heat shrink tubing and solder the connections.
The move the heat shrink onto the new tubing
and - heat the heat shrink

Will make a nice repair.

Here is exactly how to do it.

 

Smokin' good? Or from a liquid dropping on the cat? My planned D1 is super smokin good.

Sava, are all the wires "single conductor." Are there any wires that I would need to treat differently or be extra careful with you think. Obviously they would all need to be sound connections. I wonder if any wires are redundant, unused or could be rerouted easily with new wire. Again you give me way to much credit...i have no Pollo U or other training. That old school stuff is invaluable anyway. Our young people should be forced to take a variety of shop and trade classes and hands on.

Thank for flag Spike.....i thought they were new...but a pulled used one "no cuts" should be fine from a reputable source. I'm waiting on Paul......Although I don't know what the answer to your riddle is.

unless maybe his is a few more days out, shipping time and $$$ and my guy feels we can fix it.

new one would be best for sure. used one I think ok. fix i'm still not convinced about but I may try anyway for those reasons.