sorry, never addressed this question. Yes, it was this chemical exhaust gas test: .

I'm gonna do another test in a few days just to make sure I did it right. To be honest I wasn't totally sure...the return hose from the radiator shoots coolant back into the tank right at the neck, where the tube is supposed to draw air. Not sure how to circumvent this possible contamination...

 

So I'm going on long weekend trip in a few weeks, about 300 miles round trip driving. I only have about 500 miles before I meant to flush my old coolant out (it's a weekend car mostly and takes me a while to put on miles), so my plan is to wait until the road trip and add a little bottle of K Seal. After the trip, flush my coolant out good, pull the t-stat to check for signs of gunk, flush the radiator with CLR...basically try to eliminate any possible gunk in the system after it's had a chance to (hopefully possibly) seal any block crack. Is this dumb??

 

When I had a cracked block my shop put a bottle of block seal (cant remember the brand) and that worked fine until I found a new engine, I also swapped out the entire cooling system at the same time. Took about 500 miles to seal up and then lasted another 8000 miles.

 

Given the obvious options here if there is indeed a serious issue, I also would lean towards the block seal.
Just be sure to research how they work - glass based or other. Some are garbage obviously, but if AB sells one, thats a good place to start IMO.

Head Gasket Repair by Dura-Seal® Sealers & Oil Stop Leaks

This is one I've used in the past with good results, not on a LR though........ Reviews were good at the time and its not a glass based sealer.

 

I recently used BAR head gasket sealer. It stopped the leak fairly fast and going on 50 miles later, still no leak. So while I would not suggest this as a solution, it can buy you more time to make a decision on a solution.

 

Wow that stuff looks intense. Giving my $14 bottle of K Seal a complex. They allegedly have a Rover specific formulation?

Oh well, I'm hoping for my situation the K Seal will slow down the leak long enough for me to figure out another option. Which is unfortunately looking like, get a new car.

 

I'd flush the coolant system with super flush, put in all new coolant and run it for a couple days and retest.

I'd also hold a rag up to the exhaust pipe while it's running and collect some moisture, smell it and see if it smells like coolant.

these trucks need injectors about now. Doesnt always matter about mileage, types of gas and AGE wear out parts.

 

I doubt its Rover specific but more block type (alum or iron) and quantity based on liters.
Thats my guess anyway..........

This is a fluid you have to go through a process to use.
Draining, filling, adding, draining, flushing etc etc - you cant just add it and walk away like the cheap ones.
Worked great for the Mini we put it in but didnt have the car long enough to know the long term results.
I found quite a few reviews at the time though that directed towards this product.

 

Do you mean to flush it before I K-Seal? Also, any tips for avoiding contamination from the thin radiator return hose that shoots out right where the testing tube goes?

Also, I'm not sure if I noticed coolant smell from the exhaust before, though I've tried, but I definitely smell coolant from the engine bay area after the car gets up to temperature. No visible leaks though, and bright yellow block tester fluid still leads to me to believe it's getting into the engine somewhere.

 

Yes. My next step would be to stop everything, flush the cooling system, refill with new. Then do the exhaust test.