I just came from getting my inspection sticker...and I failed! They said that the computer said my system was not "ready"? They suggested that I go put about 100 miles on it before bringing it back to try again. I cleared a code (PO1450) 2 days ago with my scangauge and I'm wondering if using my scangauge had something to do with it not working? Has anybody dealt with this one before? I'm starting to reach a burnout point with this vehicle. As soon as I fix one thing 3 other things start screwing up . So if this is more than a few hundred dollars to fix, car is for sale.

 

Why would you clear a code without fixing it?
I can't find a 1450, what is it supposed to be?

 

When you clear fault codes, it also resets the readiness monitors to "not complete" One of the things inspection stations do is see that all the readiness monitors have been completed. The distance and time for each of these monitors is different, I don't recall offhand what they are, but when he told you to drive a hundred miles it was to complete those. The idea behind it is so that people don't just clear an intermittent fault just before the inspection.

 

What he said.
Do a Google search for the Land Rover drive cycle, there are steps do reset the drive cycle in about 10 miles but it has to be done a specific way.
Otherwise you can just drive it normal but it does take at least 100 miles to reset everything.

 

P1450 - Land Rover Type Powertrain - Manufacturer Controlled DTC - Manufacturer Controlled

Description Evaporative emission (EVAP) pressure pump - circuit plausibility

Cause Wiring, pressure pump, ECM

 

This comes up over an over on a lot of forums, so I'm going to post it here and hope it gets indexed well enough that when people search they find it.

For those who don't know, after you "clear your codes" with an OBDII reader, your IM readiness monitors are in a "not ready" status. Different monitors need different conditions before they have made it through a full cycle so that they can either go to "ready" or throw a code for whatever reason is keeping them from going ready.

In most states with emissions inspection, you can have at least 1, if not 2 monitors offline and still pass the test (this is typically based on the age of the vehicle, and all DII2 fall into the same general category, at least in PA). The last one to go ready is almost always going to be Evap, and it can take a while considering you have to have less than about 1/2 tank of fuel before it can even consider starting the readiness test.

In any case, if you've cleared your codes and need to get these things online so you can get the truck inspected, "go out and drive" certainly works, but it's not terribly efficient. I happened to be at the garage today fixing their computer, and took the time to pull down some AllData and other info I've been meaning to stop by and grab. Among this is the drive cycle for all D2s (this says 2002, but I verified all years are the same):

2002 LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 4.0L 188 HP V8 (2) GAS-FI-N

ALL MONITORS - HIGHWAY DRIVE CYCLE - ALL MODELS NOT LISTED, ALL ENGINES Notes: 1. This drive cycle is designed to simulate highway driving. 2. When instructed, vary speed smoothly. 3. Also perform the All Monitors - Urban (City) Drive Cycle twice. Conditions: 1. Cold start. STEPS: 1. Idle 20 seconds. Accelerate gradually and drive at 20-25 mph for 1 minute. Vary speed. 2. Drive at 25-31 mph for 35 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 40 seconds. 3. Accelerate moderately. Drive at 20-25 mph for 20 seconds. Increase speed to 40-55 for 85 seconds, then decelerate to 0 over 50 seconds. Idle 15 seconds. 4. Gradually increase speed to 36 mph in 35 seconds. Decelerate to 0 in 15 seconds. Idle 10 seconds. 5. Accelerate to 30 mph and decelerate to 0 over 25 second period. Idle 20 seconds. 6. Accelerate to 36 mph in 20 seconds. Drive at 35 mph for 20 seconds. Decelerate to 0 in 15 seconds. Idle 5 seconds. 7. Accelerate to 26 mph and decelerate to 0 in 40 seconds. Idle 15 seconds. 8. Accelerate to 27 mph in 40 seconds. Decelerate to 0 in 8 seconds. Idle 25 seconds. 9. Accelerate to 26 mph and decelerate to 0 in 35 seconds. Idle 15 seconds. 10. Drive in stop-and-go traffic for 1 minute, reaching 25-30 mph twice, with no complete stops. 11. Drive at 20-30 mph for 2 minutes and stop. Vary speed. Drive at 20-28 mph for 2-1/2 minutes at varying speeds. Stop. Idle 30 seconds. 12. Accelerate to 28 mph and back to 0 in 50 seconds. Accelerate to 20 mph in 10 seconds, drive at 20-27 mph for 20 seconds and decelerate to 0 in 10 seconds. Idle 15 seconds. 13. Accelerate to 23 mph and back to 0 in 20 seconds. Idle 10 seconds. Accelerate to 22 mph and back to 0 in 45 seconds. Idle 10 seconds. 14. Accelerate to 25 mph in 30 seconds. Drive at 23-28 mph for 25 seconds. Decelerate to 0 in < 10 seconds. 15. Idle 25 seconds. Accelerate to 22 mph and back to 0 in 30 seconds.

 

So basically drive in heavy city traffic?

 

Yes kinda, but not really spike i read that it was a little more difficult than that. Fortunately i have never had to do this.

 

Mike-I read the code earlier, asked around at a few parts stores, and they had never heard of it and couldn't find anything on it. They suggested a new gas cap, so I went with that and checked some other stuff out and cleared the code to see if thats what it was. So far the light has not came back on and my gas cap passed. So I don't know if that was the problem or not, I guess I need to drive it for a few days to see?

EVAP system, electrical system, pressure pump, ECM...who knows what else it could be?!! How intense are the diagnostics on that kind of stuff?? How will they go about finding the problem, is it as simple as connecting it to their "special" computer? I know cost will vary from shop to shop, but does anybody have a guess at how much I could be facing on this? (and yes I know it could be anything) Thanks!

 

I am here so i will respond." If you go
to your google bar and type land rover code p1450 several things will come up" the search bar at the top of this forum will also bring up post from others that have had same issue. Trust me you are not the only one lol. It does not sound like you have a higher tech computer to find out real time info. However from experience most shops either will be honest and tell you they dont work on rovers or tell you some bs and screw up your truck. Any one that knows how to work on them is usually expensive so any work you can do your self or with the help of the wizards on this forum will save you thousands. As for the code i dont believe it will hurt to run it and see if it comes back however if your truck is have any issues other than normal it could cause problems. Most shops charge 1 hour diagnostic charge so here it is 130 and up per hour