Fan Clutch?
#1
Fan Clutch?
Is there a conversion for a fan clutch for a 2000 DII w/o secondary air with 170k? I have a DI and I did the chevy conversion for it.
Here is what happened:
I have green coolant in it. I believe its 50/50 mix.
I replaced the thermostat with this one, I read on this site that a couple of people did it and they have been happy with the results.
Today while at slow speeds with the A/C off, off roading the ultra gauge was on the code screen and not temp screen. Next thing I know the beeping is going off and the hot light is on on the dash. The temp gauge never moved, (factory) the ultra gauge shows 220. I know how you NEVER want to over heat these things because A) Crack block B) Head gasket C) Slip liner. I popped the hood and shut her down, keeping the heat on as well. I never have any trouble in town (under 20) with and without a/c on 196-204. I run 194.00-200.00 on high way, with and without a/c. I checked the radiator and it had some crap in the fins. I took a hose and flushed that stuff out. I took the fan clutch and gave it a turn when the truck was warm and it didn't seem to move much, but still moved maybe a 1/3 of full turn.
I don't have a gurgling sound behind the dash. I replaced the thermo 2 days ago and just filled it up with coolant. I didn't notice any air in the system, *no gurgling*
Thoughts on fan clutch?
Here is what happened:
I have green coolant in it. I believe its 50/50 mix.
I replaced the thermostat with this one, I read on this site that a couple of people did it and they have been happy with the results.
Today while at slow speeds with the A/C off, off roading the ultra gauge was on the code screen and not temp screen. Next thing I know the beeping is going off and the hot light is on on the dash. The temp gauge never moved, (factory) the ultra gauge shows 220. I know how you NEVER want to over heat these things because A) Crack block B) Head gasket C) Slip liner. I popped the hood and shut her down, keeping the heat on as well. I never have any trouble in town (under 20) with and without a/c on 196-204. I run 194.00-200.00 on high way, with and without a/c. I checked the radiator and it had some crap in the fins. I took a hose and flushed that stuff out. I took the fan clutch and gave it a turn when the truck was warm and it didn't seem to move much, but still moved maybe a 1/3 of full turn.
I don't have a gurgling sound behind the dash. I replaced the thermo 2 days ago and just filled it up with coolant. I didn't notice any air in the system, *no gurgling*
Thoughts on fan clutch?
#2
#3
The same chevy fan clutch for a D1 can be used on a D2 also. I run the exact same part on my '98 as well as my '04.
If it is only getting hot at idle, the fan clutch would be the first place I'd start. And at that temp, your electric fan shoulda kicked on to help cool
If it is only getting hot at idle, the fan clutch would be the first place I'd start. And at that temp, your electric fan shoulda kicked on to help cool
Last edited by kenk; 06-18-2012 at 07:00 AM.
#5
I was reading the RAVE when I bleed the system. I thought I did it right because I don't hear any bubbles/gurgles behind the dash. (When I did it wrong on my DI I had a massive waterfall in the dash)
I have no reference to the old thermostat because I didn't go off road with it when that thermostat was in it.
The electric fan does kick on. However I am thinking it is blowing the wrong way. It seems to blow OUT through the grill and not back at the engine. I am going to check that by putting a plastic bag in front and see what happens with air movement.
Thank you for your help so far!
I have no reference to the old thermostat because I didn't go off road with it when that thermostat was in it.
The electric fan does kick on. However I am thinking it is blowing the wrong way. It seems to blow OUT through the grill and not back at the engine. I am going to check that by putting a plastic bag in front and see what happens with air movement.
Thank you for your help so far!
#6
With an 04, and a 1 piece fan/clutch, how can you run the old chevy clutch, did you get rid of the 03/04 fan assembly and switch to an earlier D2 style?
#7
I was reading the RAVE when I bleed the system. I thought I did it right because I don't hear any bubbles/gurgles behind the dash. (When I did it wrong on my DI I had a massive waterfall in the dash)
I have no reference to the old thermostat because I didn't go off road with it when that thermostat was in it.
The electric fan does kick on. However I am thinking it is blowing the wrong way. It seems to blow OUT through the grill and not back at the engine. I am going to check that by putting a plastic bag in front and see what happens with air movement.
Thank you for your help so far!
I have no reference to the old thermostat because I didn't go off road with it when that thermostat was in it.
The electric fan does kick on. However I am thinking it is blowing the wrong way. It seems to blow OUT through the grill and not back at the engine. I am going to check that by putting a plastic bag in front and see what happens with air movement.
Thank you for your help so far!
#8
I actually used a D1 fan on the chevy clutch, it is the same style as the '04, but about 1/2" smaller diameter.
#9
Too many untested mods.
Land Rover spent a lot of money renting time on test tracks for brutal cold, heat, off roading to test the fan blade, fan clutch, cowlings our dear D2's were built with.
I would go back to the standard D2 fan.
You are losing a lot of surface area with the smaller fan.
That big RING around the D2 fan is to keep air flow thru the radiator and to keep suction.
With the DI fan - you are sucking some air in the engine compartment and just moving it around.
The fan clutch needs that big ring as it seals the area between the radiator cowling and the fan's blades.
That is what heats up the fan clutch and makes it engage.
-----
With my D1 and D2 - I notice...
When it is hot out and the engine is working - you can tell if the fan clutch is engaging as the fan really roars when pulling air thru.
Off roading - you are hardly moving yet demanding a lot from the engine and cooling system.
There is no moving air hardly from motion, so you need to have a totally "fit" cooling system which has no error.
For off road-
I would put the D2 fan back in.
And, get a good fan clutch.
I would put in the soft spring thermostat.
Plus - it would be cool if you could have a switch which turns on the electric AUX fan to blow - when you are off roading.
And, don't use the A/C.
Just my .02. You probably think I am a jerk for saying get rid of the D1 fan.
But, I am trying to offer advice unbiased as I don't own your D2...(so I can do that)
Land Rover spent a lot of money renting time on test tracks for brutal cold, heat, off roading to test the fan blade, fan clutch, cowlings our dear D2's were built with.
I would go back to the standard D2 fan.
You are losing a lot of surface area with the smaller fan.
That big RING around the D2 fan is to keep air flow thru the radiator and to keep suction.
With the DI fan - you are sucking some air in the engine compartment and just moving it around.
The fan clutch needs that big ring as it seals the area between the radiator cowling and the fan's blades.
That is what heats up the fan clutch and makes it engage.
-----
With my D1 and D2 - I notice...
When it is hot out and the engine is working - you can tell if the fan clutch is engaging as the fan really roars when pulling air thru.
Off roading - you are hardly moving yet demanding a lot from the engine and cooling system.
There is no moving air hardly from motion, so you need to have a totally "fit" cooling system which has no error.
For off road-
I would put the D2 fan back in.
And, get a good fan clutch.
I would put in the soft spring thermostat.
Plus - it would be cool if you could have a switch which turns on the electric AUX fan to blow - when you are off roading.
And, don't use the A/C.
Just my .02. You probably think I am a jerk for saying get rid of the D1 fan.
But, I am trying to offer advice unbiased as I don't own your D2...(so I can do that)
#10
I appreciate all the replies. I am running a factory D2 fan in the rover. I replaced the fan clutch this morning with one from auto zone because the local dealer can't get it in until wednesday and I need to drive it out of town tomorrow. It runs cooler when driving at slower speeds now. I should add that at the point where it over heated it was easily 95-100 degrees outside. I also re-bleed my coolant system doing word for word what the RAVE says. I will know more when I take it off road again tomorrow. Is there a way to unplug the compressor on the A/C so when you press the A/C switch in the rover the electric fan comes on? Just as added cooling.