Hi guys - a newbie here! I have a couple of issues that I could use an opinion on. Long story short, I have a 2000 Disco II with 115K on it, and I had a remanufactured motor put in about a month ago. It runs pretty well, but has a couple of issues. I had a couple Disco's in the past, and this one doesn't seem to have the "pep" that my other 2 did as far as acceleration....of course it feels great when on a road with a slight decline, but if I'm headed up an incline, it is pretty sluggish, i.e. loses speed gradually unless I stomp on it to keep up. I never had that issue in my other two. That said, when I got the truck back after the motor was installed, I had a bunch of codes in the system...random stuff. I replaced the MAF and all 4 oxygen sensors, and I still have codes left for a camshaft position sensor, and some sort of "transmission switch" (can't remember exactly). I saw that the CPS sensor is pretty pricey, and I'm not fully sure I need it as I know that sometimes check engine light codes can come from other issues. One other symptom I have is that although the truck drives well, if I'm driving in town and slow down to 5mph or less, then go to accelerate, it doesn't always want to "go" right away, so I'll press down harder on the accelerater to get it going....it just seems to not like to accelerate very well in the 0-5mph range...

Lastly, my mechanic doesn't really like the fact that the coolant hoses feel a bit firmer than he'd like while the truck is running....he said I should be able to squeeze them almost closed with my fingers, but you can only squeeze them closed about 1/2 way. He admits he's not a know-it-all when it comes to Rovers though. I would appreciate your feedback and advice, and thank you in advance!

 

Go get your codes read at a local parts store so we have something to talk about.

 

ok - sorry...I should have written them down today...they were just read off to me before they were cleared. I know the CPS was one code....will do in the a/m. Thanks -

 

OK, this is a follow-up to my post last night where I was not providing enough information. While looking over some other posts, I saw where one guy had a blown fuse #2 under the hood, which assists with engine management. Low and behold, mine was blown as well! That said, after I replaced it and cleared all the codes and drove, I still have several codes and the same symptoms. Here are the codes presently in the system:

PO445 - evap emission control system purge valve c short
PO448 - evap emission control vent circuit short
PO102 - MAF or VAF A circuit low input
P1884 - manufacturer control transmission
PO340 - camshaft position sensor bank 1

And just to confirm, I replaced all 4 oxygen sensors yesterday, and have replaced the MAF with a used one from another D2 that was running fine with no codes- same part number, etc. This morning, I also put on a new gas cap, as mine seemed a hair loose, as I saw where someone mentioned that this could be an issue.

Thank you in advance for any help that you all could provide....I don't just want to start throwing parts at it if I don't have to!

 

Did you clear your codes after installing the used MAF, if you did, it is bad and when replaced with a new one will clear the 102 and the 1884 codes.
The 340 is a cam shaft position sensor failure, with nothing to do with bank 1. That is a rare fault and a expensive part so I would have someone with a good scanner read it's out puts and compare them to the Rave Manual.
As for your evap codes, as they are saying the purge valve is shorted and possibily bad, gas cap won't fix it.
Let us know how it is going.

 

Mike - thanks for the info and yes, the codes came back when I cleared them after the new "used" MAF was put in. That said, I just checked again and now all my O2 codes are back (PO135, PO155, PO141, PO161, PO134, PO154) yet I replaced them all 2 days ago. My buddy said to disable the battery overnight tonight and try again tomorrow, that some of those codes could have been stored a long time. I'll at least try that I guess, but that still leaves my current 5 codes to deal with. Do I need to just buck up and order a $300 MAF from the Rover dealer? And as for the CPS, I do know that is expensive...so I will see if my mechanic can check those readings first.

As for the evap codes - do I need to purchase a new cannister? And the magic question....which off all these items should be done first? MAF?

One more thing - the "tight" coolant hoses...is that normal? I'm hearing different opinions....my mechanic does not like how tight they are. You can squeeze them about half way when it's running, but that's it (at most). Thanks Mike- I see you post a lot on here helping people....I'm trying to make sure I have a good owner experience this time with this Rover, but don't want to fall in love with it if I have more problems that I can handle over time...especially if I have early warning signs.

 

You can get a good new MAF for $100 bucks. Call Will Tillery (434) 251-9331, he has a rover shop, and I got my new Bosch from him last year for $112 including shipping. Also, on the evaporation code, you most likely need to change the purge valve that releases the fumes back into the throttle body to be burnt. It is an easy swap just behind the main intake hose that the MAF is in, and down a bit. Two hose clamps and a small electrical plug. Factory clamps are a little tricky until you figure them out. You can use the Hyundai purge valve part#28910-22040. I replaced this last year as well, around $40-50 from the Hyundai dealer.

On the tight coolant hoses, you may need to "burp" the coolant system, it may have air in the system. Do you get heat when you select heat in your D2? There are some threads on doing this, basically opening up the system different places to let and /or force air out. This can happen when you do not follow the correct steps when filling the coolant system. There should be an plastic adjustment screw head of sorts either on the top radiator hose or the union of hoses just to the left of the top hose that crosses over the radiator area if the hose has been replaced. The newer adjustment screw to the left in the union hose came out because the one on top of the radiator was failing. This is something you will want to swap as well when you get a chance if you still have the old style hose. Mike can give you more details on the burping, but this is the basic idea.

 

There is a sticky on bleeding air from the coolant lines. It's a pressurized system though and the hoses should get harder when everything heats up.

+1 on will tillery, he is the go to guy for budget rover parts.

Where did you get your O2 sensors from? The codes should not come back unless they are bad (I did 4 and 1 ended up being bad). Clearing them with a scanner should clear the history too, no need to unhook your battery.

 

Thank you for the info - I will go ahead and get a MAF from the person that you all mentioned and go from there...I've heard it has to be in a genuine Rover box - does his come that way? I replaced all the O2 sensors with OEM sensors two days ago...I did unhook the battery last night, so I'm interested to see what codes I'll get today, just in case the CPU has a few of them stored. As for bleeding the air, I know this is a delicate process to do....that said, I got my truck back 2 weeks ago from Tidewater Rovers in N.C. were the remanned motor was purchased and installed, and they bled it there and said that they place more emphasis on that than anything else....that said, I'm assuming it was done properly?? I guess I'll find out - the hoses were "very" tight last night which worries me. Will also wait to hear back from Mike as well on a few of the other symptoms. Thanks everyone for your input - keep it coming!

 

OK, here's an update....

For the heck of it, I decided to try and see if I could bleed the system, due to how tight the coolant hoses felt. That said, when I leave the cap off the resovoir while the truck is running (with the heater on) the coolant started to rise to the top after a few minutes....so I had to put the cap back on or else it was going to bubble over. I do see some faint white smoke out of the exhaust, and it does smell. That said, there is no overheating, the temp gauge stays right in the middle at all times, etc. Would anyone here have a few minutes to talk on the phone by chance? I'm starting to lose my mind over this truck (long story that I can explain). But, I don't want to go order a new MAF, purge valve, get the CPS tested at the shop, etc if I have potentially bigger problems to address. IF someone would not mind a quick phone call, I would be very appreciative. My number is 540-379-8951, or I can call you. Thanks!