got the old pump off, it popped right off with out to much of a fight ones all the bolts were off. i noticed that three bolts are longer and are 11mm. do those get any kinda lock tight or sealer on the threads when i go to install them again?

also, iv got about 80% of the old gasket off what is everyone using to remove this old gasket? all i got are razor blades right now. Also the factory gasket, is it orange? seams to brake off like its clay.

my Airtex gasket good to use or should i go get an OEM gasket from the dealership?

whats your best method to clean the old gasket off the top part were the top three bolts hold the water pump? thats about the only part left of the gasket i have not yet removed. going to go to walmart now and get a razor blade kit that comes with the different handles and blade angles and stuff.


now why couldnt the old gasket come right off with the pump rather then being stuck to the block? lol

 

There are 6 water pump bolts - all same size
I think a couple of the front cover (longer bolts) you are talking about also need to be removed.
All bolts should get thread locker - STC 50552 aka Loctite 243
I think I am also going to add some Permatex thread sealant above the loctite towards the head when I get to this job.

Use CRC or Permatex gasket remover with a plastic razor blade. This stuff is magic and also works wonders for carbon buildup. Way more effective than carb cleaner... but also expensive at ~$10/can
Factory gasket is orange.. its a funky paper material

I heard the paper gaskets water pumps usually come with are pretty crappy. If you are going to use it, I suggest a gasket dressing or sealant. Perhaps Hylomar PL32. I'd stay away from RTV. If you're going to use RTV, permatex does make a specialized water pump gasket maker (blue I think) that could be used in place of a gasket

 

any stuff i can use on the old gasket to help brake it loose while i scrape it off?

 

Read my reply again

 

came in, posted real quick and then ran back outside. then saw your post on my cell phone. thank , i tried to go to pep boys and a few other auto parts stores, and no one had any kind of gasket remover .

i did go pick up a OEM water pump gasket

so far iv almost got all the old gasket removed. i think i found the leak to my coolant too, looks like a new radiator is in order. 2 or 3 of the horizontal vains were they join to the vertical part are leaking. that explains why these last few weeks there was coolant leaking on the passenger side front of the D2.

 

oh, with the OEM water pump gasket, does the orange side face the block or the water pump?

 

I have not used an orange one but they go on only one way. If its reversed, it won't line up.

 

good point.




just wondering as well, the radiator, looks like there are two bolts. one on each side of the radiator, so just remove those and the radiator should slide up and out?

 

No the radiator is more involved. Easiest is to read the RAVE manual for step by steps. It involves removing the airbox and battery box. Don't need to remove bumper or grille

 

so if i cant find thread sealer at a local auto parts store, whats my next alternative local store to hit up and product to buy?

i go the blue lock tight for the water pump bolts, but need to find the thread sealer for the tips of the three long bolts,

gonna head to walmart now and get like 10 gallons of distilled water to flush threw the system now. iv flushed everything with the garden hose very well multiple times to clear the system. then going to do the distilled water a few times with a few warm up cycles and pulling the bottom hose. getting the engine ready for the G12. im gonna try it and see what happens. ill have to replace the radiator soon it looks like. the G12 is known to find holes and seal them up for a bit. ill see how that turns out.