Bleeding the cooling system should be done only with the system stone cold.

I don't understand this.

Your "hard line" is likely the original equipment nylon, which has plenty of flex to allow the reservoir to be lifted up high enough to bleed the system correctly. You just need to unclip the nylon line from the side of the battery box.

Completely unnecessary. There is no need to remove the block drain plugs.

Yes, the brass-bladed Airtex pump is the pump of choice. But didn't you already buy and install an Airtex?

 

They are basically square headed pipe plugs. 8 pt are proper sockets. 12 point socket should work unless buggered. Been a while since doing mine, seem to remember using 3/8" 12 pt.

 

the line that returns from the top of the radiator to the reservoir is not original, some one changed it with metal line with soft hose on each end. how high up are you lifting the reservoir, a foot? and are you opening the bleed screw and just adding at the reservoir till water comes out the bleed screw?

iv never been able to bleed stone cold.

the airtex brass water pump is now in the D2.

iv never pulled the block plugs, but iv only ever been able to get 2 gallons into the cooling system too and the manual says the cooling system holds about 3 gallons. so theres got to be that last gallon floating around in the block right?

i installed the old fan clutch and fan back in and noticed that it very easy to spin when its 55 degrees out side. barely spins at idle when first starts up, but after about a minute it finally starts spinning good. it does seem to work. i just didn't care for the Autozone fan clutch spinning all the time and not appearing to unlock.

 

did you use plumbers tape or thread sealant on the plugs when re installing them?

whats your vinegar water ratio? and are you running that mixture for one warm up? or just poring it threw the system and letting it drain out the lower block plug?

 

I used the thin thread tape and one gallon of vinegar with balance of water. I ran it for a couple of days, drained and then did a couple of water flushes to remove vinegar. Last time I read a label on a commercial product it did recommended some drive time to get it well circulated and give it time to clean. IMO tap water is fine for flushes because it takes time and many heat cycles for deposits to form. Also good to check your thermostat for debris after your flush.
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so i saw the drain plug on the driver side, but spent like 15 mins today looking for the other one. is it above the starter? behind it? in front of it?

 

When the reservoir is in its mount it sits below the level of the bleed screw in the plastic tee. It needs to be unclipped and lifted at least high enough so the coolant in the reservoir is higher than the tee so that coolant will flow and force the air out of the bleed screw fitting. Ideally it should be raised so that the bottom of the reservoir is above the level of the bleed screw fitting but if you don't have that much flex to work with just raise it as high as you can without straining any fitting too much.

Yes. Add coolant at the reservoir until it runs out the bleed screw for 20 seconds or so, then gently tighten the bleed screw and put the reservoir back in place.

I assume by this you mean you've not been able to bleed it successfully stone cold. I know a lot of people have trouble bleeding the cooling system but I've never had any problem simply following the instructions in the RAVE.

Again, there's no reason to remove the drain plugs from the block. If you flush 2-3 times until there is only clear water in the system all you then need to do is pull the lower radiator hose and drain whatever comes out, then fill with Prestone concentrate, not 50/50 premix (or whatever your favorite brand is).

 

well found the second drain plug just above the motor mount. i may or may not go for the plugs, but will see. it appears the 11mm socket is the size for the drain plugs.

im going with the G12 coolant in the system. if the system holds almost 3 gallons, wont i need at least a gallon and a half of concentrate to create that 50/50 mix?


ill try again with lifting the reservoir higher tomorrow and see how it all goes.

 

I know someone else wrote earlier about the cooling system capacity in liters, but in Imperial measure the RAVE says the "Fill from dry" capacity is 26.2 pints. That's 3.28 gallons. The "From dry" spec is the correct one to use since it represents the full capacity, including the water left in the system. Half of that is 1.64 gallons. I think you've said you can get at least nearly two gallons of water into the system after pulling the lower radiator hose only. That means you can add a gallon and two-thirds of concentrate and be at 50/50.

 

Thanks for the update on the plug socket size, I may have used 7/16. RH can be a real PIA to R&R. It can be done with patience if you're determined.

Found one of my previous thread replies.In the past I'd get reservoir high enough to rest on fuse or battery box when bleeding.
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