So was I, but then thought what the hell, does it matter, by the time you come to sell your truck (if you do) it will either be dead, or someone will buy it for a trail / offroad toy anyway, so a snorkel will just add to the selling appeal.

Just fit one.

PS..........The D2 breathers are already up in the engine bay, well 3 of them, the rear axle one is the one to relocate to the front as well if you do anything, so unless your going to swim it bonnet depth, they are pretty much ok anyway, Or for complete piece of mind extend them all up the side of the snorkel.

 

it would be cool if there was a thread dedicated to wading preparation... with a write-up of this that would basically outline exactly where all these vents are to be found...

 

Your prob right.
And besides, who wants a extra Disco fender hanging next to their shirts in the closet?

 

Spike, sign me up

 

They could make a package with raised vent hoses and dielectric, and call it the "Submersible Stimulus Package."

To bad we can't get together and offer a large quantity buy from arb, and get like 1/2 off.. It's hard to justify a $400 snorkel..
Maybe if we all agreed to put huge arb stickers on.. But they'd probably want my tjm bumper off..

 

Yes, I am in the process of waterproofing as much as possible to prepare for any high water; thanks for the list of recomendations!

As for cutting that big hole, I checked my markings with the template several times before making the cut!!! And my heart was beating fast as I drilled the holes. A sharp 70mm hole saw only took a few seconds to cut through the fender which I never realized is made of aluminum!

And having owned an Izuzu diesel many years ago, I agree that you should not swamp your gas engine. That being said, the snorkel has more of an effect of just raising your air intake to a safer level then having the stock air intake in go into the fender. If you are moving through water that is 12-24 inches in depth, I would think you stand a better chance of getting water slung up into the fender and possibly into the intake that is there, especially if you have an after market bumper (as I do) because the front of the fender liner is often cut away.

As a side note, Disco Mike reminds me to work on my door seals. Am I the only one who has slightly torn seals where you step out of the car? The design of the LR Disco seems to have the rubber seal right on the leading edge of the frame whereas other cars I have owned have the seal set back some and a sill extending outwards. So far I've fixed any tears with black RTV cement and held it in place with masking tap until it sets. It seems to work for awhile but I may just need to replace my driver's side seal completly this year.

 

The factory seals have "splits" in them front and rear, not sure why really, maybe to let water "out" if it does get in, first time I dunked mine, thats where it came in, have now sealed them up neatly with RTV, and they stopped 99.9% last time she went swimming.

Another thing to seal up is the holes in the bottom of the Airbox AND that stupid dump valve that protrudes into the wheel arch as well.

If you hit deep enough water it can come "up" those as well and still soak the air filter. Get the RTV on those to !!.

REF gas or diesel engines, if you flood a petrol, 9 out of 10 times you can remove the plugs and crank it over to get rid of the water and away you go, flood a diesel and its most likely all over due to the high compression that water dont like, somink usually breaks!!!...

 

I RTV'd the one hole in the bottom of the air box. What/where is the dump valve?

 

The rubber cone shape thing you can see when you look under the wheel arch, its designed to let water out but also stop dirt going in, how ever over time it spreads open so water gets up it as well.

I pushed a plastic blank / cap in from the top and sealed the mother up.

 

Thank you.