Well, you have probably run by one of my many posts on trying to figure out what is wrong with my truck. I didnt even look or touch the truck yesterday out of complete frutration . I today took a fresh breath and lifted it up on stands and went over it with fresh eyes. This is what i found. By all the cut wire keepers and loose wires and multi plugs i had a feeling someone had done some work on this engine. I confirmed that when i was checking my knock sensor connections and was looking up at the block. The lower block was grey and a little dirty. When i kooked at the head i saw that it looked new and silver in color and i saw the cylinder number 3 standing out like a sore thumb. The gaskets as well as exhaust manifold gasket was bright and shinny as well. These are new heads. I started checking the pan gasket and sure enough you can see the new looking gasket as well as the black sealent. Looking further, the front diff where the driveshaft attaches also looked new. I also found a green paint mark that you would make if you where going to take the drive shaft off as well the drive shaft has a green paint mark on it to. So looking at the drive shaft looks pretty new, it also has been reciently replaced. I remember when the guy who changed out the transfercase said that it looked like the transmission had been replaced but it does not look new. It shifts smooth .

So, my only conclusion being that 3 different rover mechanics can't seem to answer what the problem is, is leaving me one option ...... to start over. Pull the engine, transmission, the complete drive train and tear it down and start over. I could be looking for the problems for ever and the amount of time a shop would spend let alone the dealer, i will come out way ahead. I would suspect over $3,000.00 just to tear into it and find out what the problems are. i can get a engine with 40,000 miles on it for $2,000.00 and be way ahead. I can pull the engine myself for free. I could also tear it apart for "free" and take the block, heads and internals out for machining. I could also block willing and in good shape , have top hat liners in for about $800.00 + cost of liners. I would also do the following:

Have motor rebuilt with Top Hat Liners and installed by local machine shop in Miami, fully balanced. All new bearings (crank, rod and cam), New rod bolts, new piston rings, heads rebuilt (valve job, pressure tested) and ported.
Bosch 4.6 Camshaft.
New lifters,
New timing chain and gears,
Intake runners shortened ½”
New flywheel flex plate and flywheel bolts.

Have transmission and torque converter serviced and checked out.

This should buy me 8 years or so.....or at least i could sell it and get my money out of it..

It's if trying to chase down the problems is not the answer. If i have to drive it one more time and have it vibrate at the stop light and knock driving i will lose my sanity...

any thoughts....anyone...



We all must be nuts....

 

I think you should have avoid this basket case all together. Any more into I would consider just throwing good money after bad. Apparently you are not enjoying it, why continue aggravating yourself. I would pull the plug.

Let it die a dignified death. Or put it on display somewhere, charge people 5 or 10 bucks each to beat on it with a sledge hammer to relieve their frustrations.

Or paint a Bullseye on it and let people shoot at it or something along those lines.

Before you buy any other vehicle, take a better look at it than you did on this one.

 

I wish it was that easy.. and unless you buy a brand new rover and turn it in every two years, its always a aggravating experience when you own a rover.....Like there engineers had a shred of common sense.... Anyway, I have ,including down payment and rebuilt transfer case, over $4,000.00 out of pocket cash plus what i owe the bank. If i sell as, is i loose the $4,000.00. If i fix it i get the $4,000.00 back and then some and pay off the bank... or i do the rebuild and have it for a long time...until then , it sits in the driveway and costs me a half days pay every month...

 

in short what are your problems?

you said the transfer case is new, tranny shifts fine, rear ends are good, are they any electrical issues? i just went through a hard time with my 03 d2, i know alot about lost money and such!!!

whats the problem with the engine, i know alot about it **edit i just looked at your old posts... i had the same knocking sound!!!

did you test your oil pressure, i was making oil pressure, but after my mechanic's 3 REBUILD ATTEMPTS on my 4.6 engine i came to the conclusion that the cam bearings were worn down (turned out to be true), even though i had new rods and mains, new oil pump, and rocker shaft assemblies ... i wasnt getting oil to the top of the engine, it made me mad hearing that tick/knocking sound....

i bought a used engine with 50k miles for 2500$

you dont need to pull the tranny, its alot of work.... swap the engine in and look what you have at that point.


or runaway

 

I am not sweating at the least bit....it could sit in my driveway for three years and could really care less..in short i get a bit aggravated when 3 different rover guru's cant make a simple.." oh yea...heard that before..iT'S THE BLANK"..., I mean you do this for a living every day a and i do this on the weekends out of necessity... In short.. start up 1 knock...only 1. Idels quiet...no noise.. Put in drive with brake on and start to rev... knock..knock..knock and speeds up as the revs do...after 2500 it quiets a bit as the engine roars a bit but still the TD5 deisel sound. It sound a bit throaty... At the stop light in had a more beefy tone and vibrates a bit. In park it super quiet and neutral quiet as well.

Any ideas... i hate doing anything half *** with rovers as they are ready half *** built so impending doom is the only result...just a matter of time... I kept my 95 RR 4.0 se going for 300,000 miles and it still runs better than this even with a cracked head...go figure..

Thanks for the help though..i always appreciate the help... Thanks Chris

 

Vandev, did you look for an inspection plate on the bellhousing?

If you recall, I suggested checking the flexplate for cracks and the torque converter bolts for tightness, based on the thought someone had recently been in there.

Your mech (or you) can check, it'll save you a bunch for little effort.

luck,greg

 

might be the flex plate

 

i was about to check today but it's been raining all day.. I just got the inspection plug off and had it up on stands and it started poaring. Hey by the way how do you rotae to check the 4 bolt for the converter and then the other 4 for the flex plate on the other side? Do i need all 4 wheels off the ground and have in neutral to get it to turn slowly? Let me know. I am going to buy a pan gasget and bearings just in case as a last ditch effort to see if thats where it's comming from. If not down below..I return the bearings...no biggy at least i can check the bottom.


Dont get me wrong. If i half to tear half the engine down ..why not just pull the trigger and do it all and make it bullet proof...

Think about it. I also stumbled on a thread about head gaskets... Cometic Gasket's recently released, and they now have 4.0/4.6 MLS gaskets!
If these things can seal up a 7500 horsepower top fuel engine running 70 pounds of boost, they'll seal up our 9.5:1

Add top hat liners and re torque and machine the rest...Who can kill it...It's a smart way to go... Just my time... i have been quoted at under a grand to install the liners..

i would rather spend a month getting it right than every weekend for the life of the truck screwing around trying to keep it running.. It's cheeper than RPI engeneering... Just need to get the right people to do the work. i have a pretty vast network of custom high performance engine builders for car and racing boats to get what i need done here in south florida. Maybe we need a RPI on this side of the pond... Anyway thanks and let me know.

All the best Chris

 

drip some oil from the dipstick onto a black piece of cardboard look at the oil in the sun if you metallic flakes then you have wear occurring in your engine. this is easier than dropping the pan. If no metallic flakes then your knocking noise is elsewhere

 

Thank's, that a new one for me... I wish i was skiing in colorado today instaed of screwing around with the truck..

I still thought someone said if you give power in drive with brake on and it knocks its lower..as when i rev in neutral it's quieter with almost no knock....


Thanks Again, chris