I said that if you load the engine and it's a rod bearing, it should start hammering pretty good, as opposed to a main bearing that is more constant. If the rod(s) are only slightly worn, it may not knock in neutral.

I also agree 63% with mrmerlin, if you see metal powder in oil on dark paper, it's not a good thing, however, the absence of metal doesn't necessarilly mean it's ok, IMO.


luck,greg

 

I put up on stands and opened bell housing inspection plate. Can see two screws at bottom of torque converter attached to flex plate and drive plate. They have a rectangle shaped nut attached to the torque converter side so i could see the end of the screw was all the way in. Turned over a couple times to so i could see other two screws...I made a mark so i could be sure. I also watched as car ran. No noise or wobble.

You hear the knock when you hit about 1300 rpms till about 2200 rpms and then it get's drowned out by the engine itself. Only when in drive.The knock increases with the rpms. You hear the knock better in the car as all you here is the knock and not so much the engine. I tried with my wife doing this and held a long screw driver to each valve cover. No distinct hard knock . The only way i could explain is that you would think it is a diesel when it's in drive. In neutral and park you rev and hear nothing but a engine rev with no knock. it does drop from .760 to .750 in rpms when you shift from park or neutral to drive. It also sound a bit throaty when you are in drive. WTF.....