Already did that. The guage is a 1 1/2 inch analog so it has only a needle and 200 degrees doesn't look too different from 195. I figured if there was an issue it would be showing 220 or more so when she said 200 I was happy.

I'll be getting a bluetooth dongle this week so I'll be able to get a true temp reading to confirm the accuracy of the guage I installed. I'll take the opportunity to swap out all of the hose clamps while I'm at also.

 

I replaced the radiator yesterday with a Nissens from Lucky8. I tore the radiator apart to check the core and see how the original tank had cracked. I used orange RTV to fix the leak temporarily, and you can see where it squeezed in through the crack. Makes me think I should take the screws out of the radiator I just installed.

You can also see how clean the radiator was. As far as I know, that is the original radiator mwith 94,000 miles on it. Pretty surprising. The truck had Dex-Cool in it when I bought it with around 80,000 miles on it. Looks like it was changed pretty regularly.

Well, now that the radiator is in I have almost no heat. I bled the system several times, and even disconnected the heater core return line and let the coolant pour it to make sure the core was full. The truck runs and idles at 194 to 198 degrees. It has a Motorad 180 thermostat in it. When idling, the heater inlet hose is hot and the outlet is cool and the lower radiator hose is cool also but the temp sits steady at 197. When I rev up the engine, the heater core outlet warms up a little but doesn't seem to get as hot as I would expect. When I drive it, there is very little heat from the vents. Wierd. No gurgling sounds from behind the dash. Anybody got any ideas?

By the way, the temp was confirmed with both the factory sensor in the engine through a bluetooth dongle hooked to the OBD2 port and by an analog gauge reading from the upper radiator hose.

 

Reverse flush heater core. Core should alays have hot water circulating in it, there is no on/off valve.

 

I was thinking that could be a partially clogged core but with the radiator being that clean I figured it was fine. I blew the coolant out of the heater core using a small shop vac I have with the hose on the outlet side. It emptied the coolant but in hindsight it didn't really seem to blow through it too easily. Most likely the radiator wasn't the original and the core is gunked up with Dexcool sludge.

Since I'm going to flush it out, I should probably fill the core up with radiator flush while I'm at it. Does anyone have a preferred flush product? I figure I'll pour it into the inlet, let it sit a while then backflush the core with a garden hose, then blow out the water, then fill it with distilled, then blow it out again, then fill it with coolant. That should get most of the tap water out of it.

 

It is so small that most of the cleaning will come from scale flaking off by reverse flow. Hoses / Pipes should be hot going into and out of the core, way too much drop makes you think a dribble is all that is getting thru. Damn infestation of mud chiggerz.

 

Thanks for the reply. I might just dump in a bottle of liquid flush just the same, even though its effectiveness is debateable. For $5, what's to lose? Maybe I'll mix it with a little water and heat it up before I put it in. Most of the time is in disconnecting and reconnecting the lines and cleaning up the mess so adding that extra step won't take that much longer. I want to be done with this issue in one attempt. Replacing the radiator took way too much time, what with trying to slip the tranny cooler off and back on the radiator (I left it hooked up), dealing with siezed hardware, coolant dripping in my face and eyes, dropping screws while trying to remount the cooler, shroud pieces sliding into the wrong places only to be discovered after everything was attached and of course getting the blood flowing from half a dozen nicks and slices to stop. Oh, and bleeding the stupid system and then trying to figure out why the heat wouldn't work.

 

Man, sounds like you had a blast tackling that. Lol

 

I didn't even mention how many times I slid off the front of the creeper trying to move under the truck, ending up with the back of my head resting comfortably on the coolant covered garage floor. Good times.

 

I just wanted to say, THANK YOU for this post. I sold my 1999 Jaguar XJR last week, and know the importance of these types of forums. Well, bought my 2003 Discovery II on Saturday, and today, coolant all over my driveway!

First post I see is this one, and sure enough, the screw hole is cracked inside. Nice easy fix, and I don't have to search all over the car for the problem.

Hopefully, over time, I'll add some pointers and help on this forum. I'm sure I'll be here a LOT as I was on JaguarForums...

Thanks again,

Stephen

 

Put bolts in there and hose clamps.
Not golf tee's.
They will fly out under pressure and you'll cook your engine.