I replaced the battery cables today and I found that the F2 fuse had blown. I’m not sure when it blew (before or after the rebuild) but I reset the codes after replacing both of those and now I’m only getting O2 sensor codes, which I kinda knew I needed to replace. When I hit the accelerator it was really quite a strange performance. Like it the TPS has no idea what was happening. But I wasn’t getting any codes, I let it idle and revved it intermittently for probably 5-10 min and it seemed to “re-learn” the proper settings. Everything seems to be operating normally, except the O2s. I haven’t driven it yet, but will soon and post an update.

A side note, I’m really having trouble burping this thing. I’ve tried several methods, but can’t seem to get the heater to stay hot after I let off the accelerator. It does stay warm, but not hot. I’m 99% sure (or hopeful?) this isn’t a coolant leak. Top hat liners installed, new HG job, new hoses everywhere, new throttle body assy. And no coolant laying on the ground. The expansion tank doesn’t look like it’s missing any coolant either. Is this really a bad heater core? Do they go out? Thanks again everyone!

 

New water pump? Sounds like you're not getting circulation through the core. Blockage could be a factor. If your temps are stable then it's likely not a burping issue. Can you let it idle for 20-30 minutes? Not sure you want to do that on a fresh engine so you may be forced to run it through normal break in and hope that it's bled correctly, but definitely get something to read your temps before you start driving it.

 

Thanks again for the thoughts Ahab. I did install a new water pump and I’ve let it idle for at least 30 min a few days ago. I have an UltraGauge EM plus OBDII reader. My temps look pretty stable IMO. After idling for 30 minutes it was hovering around 190-200F. If I bring it up to 2.5K RPMs it drops to around 180F. It did get up to 210 at one point and kinda freaked me out, but then the auxiliary fan came in and stabilized it. From what I’ve read, there isn’t a concern until you get into the 217-220 range and stay there.

 

Did you make sure that the radiator was clean and flowing freely? Over time maybe it developed a blockage especially if you are still running Dexcool. Also, restarting it can be a bugger getting the thermostat to open up. Don't at me Shane.

 

217-220 are the factory designed temps. You shouldn't be concerned about overheating at that point.

If you have a 180 degree thermostat and are getting those temps, your concern should not be the heat but what is wrong with either the stat or the rest of your cooling system that would cause that peak.

 

I wouldn't let it over 210, personally. Mine will idle at 202-204 even in 80+degree weather.

But everyone is entitled to their opinion.

 

Radiator is new and the coolant is the Land Rover OAT XLC. I haven’t had a problem getting the thermostat to open I don’t think...

 

Nevermind. I misread your post. It reads like it is operating normally.

 

wow. That seems crazy hot to me, but if that’s factory I think I’m good. I’m not sure if it’s a 180 stat, I got it from AB. it’s kinda a grayish color. But does it matter what the stat is? I mean, just to exaggerate, but if the stat were rated 100 degrees You could still get 200 degrees operating temp. From what I understand, it doesn’t cap temp, but just opens at a certain temp allowing for the engine to warm up to 180 then opens to circulate coolant. Everything else is what is supposed to keep the engine cool (radiator, fans, coolant mix, etc) right?

 

yeah it does right?! Except the heater doesn’t seem to want to stay hot. Like I mentioned, it blows fairly warm at idle and hot when at 2.5K RPMs. I’m under the impression that the heat shouldn’t dissipate afterletting it go back to idle. According to Doug at AB