first head gasket job... still hot..
Mudding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 150
Likes: 13
From: Colorado Springs, CO
After my HG job I had to replace radiator and heater core. They were clogged from previous owner trying to use snake oil to fix head gasket.
Also definitely bleed air bubbles.
I've been good to go running 195 to just over 200 farenheight with A/C on and top ambient of 90F with a 180* t-stat.
Gotta get those air bubbles out. A bottle of water wetter never hurt either.
Also definitely bleed air bubbles.
I've been good to go running 195 to just over 200 farenheight with A/C on and top ambient of 90F with a 180* t-stat.
Gotta get those air bubbles out. A bottle of water wetter never hurt either.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,856
Likes: 1,395
From: Michigan
I'm surprise at the difficulty some folks have with their coolant refilling. I've never had any issues refilling either of my rovers (01/03). I've done the 03 four times (after changing thermostat/hoses/flush system, after changing engine and after two waterpump changes). Did the 01 twice, once after flushing system and recently, after loosing idler pulley/belt, and basically just refilled, ran it, cooled it down, loosen bleeder, refilled and was good. I've never lifted or had to have vehicle on incline or anything like that, so weird on some rovers can be so miserable.
Brian.
Brian.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 137
From: NE PA
I'm surprise at the difficulty some folks have with their coolant refilling. I've never had any issues refilling either of my rovers (01/03). I've done the 03 four times (after changing thermostat/hoses/flush system, after changing engine and after two waterpump changes). Did the 01 twice, once after flushing system and recently, after loosing idler pulley/belt, and basically just refilled, ran it, cooled it down, loosen bleeder, refilled and was good. I've never lifted or had to have vehicle on incline or anything like that, so weird on some rovers can be so miserable.
Brian.
Brian.
Mudding
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 161
Likes: 39
From: Fort Collins, Co
Just Curious. Seems to me that with LR cooling issues being so prevalent here,water pumps, head gaskets, thermostats and what-not, that a coolant system vacuum bleeder would be as common to the tool kits as is a 36mm wrench.
I've never seen anybody mention using one. It's nearly always the park up hill or lift the coolant tank method.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/_WCRcuCZI50
I've never seen anybody mention using one. It's nearly always the park up hill or lift the coolant tank method.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/_WCRcuCZI50
i just did head gaskets on the disco....you put it under vacuum...make sure it holds vacuum... it also checks for leaks..
Last edited by razorkill12; Jun 5, 2018 at 06:23 PM. Reason: Misspelled word
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Land rover 2004,After engine swap changed when the start noises issue from engine.
Hey guys, I just completed my first head gasket job, got everything put back together tonight, filled with fluids, and started it up. Sounded extremely good and smooth. Ran great for about 3-4 minutes at around 2,000 rpm and started to warm up. It got to desired running temp, rpm slowed to around 12-1300 and held there for two or three minutes. Then it started heating up....
I let it go up past where it should normally be and let it approach the 3/4 line but never letting it get that far, I shut it off.
No knocking, ticking, or any other odd noises came from the motor at anytime. I did have a lot of burn off from spilt oil etc., but that was expected.
It was very hot and still burning off spilt oil so I didn't get a great look at it, however, I did notice one small hose running from top of radiator to reservoir was loose and leaking some coolant. I tightened that up and called it a night.
Not sure that small leak from the one hose could cause it to run hot?
Any insight as to where I should go from here would be helpful.
I let it go up past where it should normally be and let it approach the 3/4 line but never letting it get that far, I shut it off.
No knocking, ticking, or any other odd noises came from the motor at anytime. I did have a lot of burn off from spilt oil etc., but that was expected.
It was very hot and still burning off spilt oil so I didn't get a great look at it, however, I did notice one small hose running from top of radiator to reservoir was loose and leaking some coolant. I tightened that up and called it a night.
Not sure that small leak from the one hose could cause it to run hot?
Any insight as to where I should go from here would be helpful.
what happen this case?
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
I bled the system again and checked all hoses and clamps. Once I bled the system again and I got a laser temp gauge I started it back up and it stayed right around 200. Never got above 206-208. Driven the car 30-40 miles now with no issues. My Ultragauge is supposed to come in tomorrow
Pro Wrench
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 137
From: NE PA
If you search back a couple years, everyone here was buying motorad stats...saying they were the best...now they hate em and nothing with the stat has changed.
What has changed are the new owners and new people working on them.
What has changed are the new owners and new people working on them.
Only stats I see messed up are old OEM 195F units that have been thru complete hell..... Oat based coolant was mixed with god knows what, then they did say 1.2k worth of repairs and don’t bother to replace a 30.00-60.00 part...
Sadly a few of those did have Motorad thermostats in them, but they failed for other reasons vs the thermostat itself. Also I did see for a while a lot of so called 180F motorads were actually 195F units. Auto Zone is famous for that little nut cluster.
Air or a poor flowing system are probably 90% of the D2 HG nightmares along with just zip tie/duct tape repairs.
Sadly a few of those did have Motorad thermostats in them, but they failed for other reasons vs the thermostat itself. Also I did see for a while a lot of so called 180F motorads were actually 195F units. Auto Zone is famous for that little nut cluster.
Air or a poor flowing system are probably 90% of the D2 HG nightmares along with just zip tie/duct tape repairs.