Flood damaged Disco. Is it worth repairing?
#11
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You read my thoughts! That is exactly what I was planning on doing.
I spent the past three days taking out interior and cleaning all connectors/sensors with anti-corrosion, water-dispersant electronics spray cleaner. Surprinsingly, everything was dry and there NO signs of corrosion anywhere except cd changer and radio amp. I took down BCU, opened and looked for any short circuit glow marks and none were there. Spray it and blew it with air compressor specially under main chip. Took fuse panels and did same (no blown fuses either). I turned ignition to II for 20 mins and no sync or any activity took place. I'm thinking also Independent Driver Module (IDM) integrated into passenger fuse panel that powers BCU. I'll try to buy used one tomorrow and see if that may do it. I checked ground terminals next to engine fuse panel and generator and they are bright and shiny. I'm saying BCU because it controls:
Fuel flap release switch.
Which is exactly what is not working. Most likely prior owner or dealer must have tried turning ignition after flood while BCU was wet and probably fried it.
My main concern is that if it is the BCU (which I can buy used locally for $150), who can program it to mantain same low miles (26K) car now has and use same door keys/remote? Will the LR dealer program used BCU based on VIN and data on current BCU and what cost? Are there any shops that repair LR BCU's?
Once I'm able to tap into BCU and read codes, then I can do other neccessary repairs.
I spent the past three days taking out interior and cleaning all connectors/sensors with anti-corrosion, water-dispersant electronics spray cleaner. Surprinsingly, everything was dry and there NO signs of corrosion anywhere except cd changer and radio amp. I took down BCU, opened and looked for any short circuit glow marks and none were there. Spray it and blew it with air compressor specially under main chip. Took fuse panels and did same (no blown fuses either). I turned ignition to II for 20 mins and no sync or any activity took place. I'm thinking also Independent Driver Module (IDM) integrated into passenger fuse panel that powers BCU. I'll try to buy used one tomorrow and see if that may do it. I checked ground terminals next to engine fuse panel and generator and they are bright and shiny. I'm saying BCU because it controls:
BCU inputs
The BCU processes signals received from the following components:
Door latch switches.
Driver's door key lock/ unlock switches.
Bonnet activated security system.
Volumetric sensors.
Central Door Locking (CDL) switches.
Remote transmitter (via receiver unit).
Inertia fuel cut-off switch.
Ignition switch.
The BCU processes signals received from the following components:
Door latch switches.
Driver's door key lock/ unlock switches.
Bonnet activated security system.
Volumetric sensors.
Central Door Locking (CDL) switches.
Remote transmitter (via receiver unit).
Inertia fuel cut-off switch.
Ignition switch.
Fuel flap release switch.
Which is exactly what is not working. Most likely prior owner or dealer must have tried turning ignition after flood while BCU was wet and probably fried it.
My main concern is that if it is the BCU (which I can buy used locally for $150), who can program it to mantain same low miles (26K) car now has and use same door keys/remote? Will the LR dealer program used BCU based on VIN and data on current BCU and what cost? Are there any shops that repair LR BCU's?
Once I'm able to tap into BCU and read codes, then I can do other neccessary repairs.
i may have a couple leads for you give me a shout.
Thanks Chris
#12
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If the OD currently works then I dont think it is controlled by the BCU, I could be wrong.
Take a pic of the OD and the VIN# and when you get the BCU programmed by the dealer they should believe you that it only has 26k on it.
Also take any documentation with you stating that, like the title, bill of sale, etc.
Take a pic of the OD and the VIN# and when you get the BCU programmed by the dealer they should believe you that it only has 26k on it.
Also take any documentation with you stating that, like the title, bill of sale, etc.
#13
#14
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If the OD currently works then I dont think it is controlled by the BCU, I could be wrong.
Take a pic of the OD and the VIN# and when you get the BCU programmed by the dealer they should believe you that it only has 26k on it.
Also take any documentation with you stating that, like the title, bill of sale, etc.
Take a pic of the OD and the VIN# and when you get the BCU programmed by the dealer they should believe you that it only has 26k on it.
Also take any documentation with you stating that, like the title, bill of sale, etc.
I just replaced interior fuse panel w/ 2003 which is the same model for both 03-04 thinking it may have to do with Intelligent Driver Module integrated into fuse panel and turn ignition to II for 20 mins to sync and nothing happened. I was keeping fingers crossed that it would fire-up BCU.
At this point, it looks like I can either get BCU repaired (if possible, PTSchram is willing to take a crack at it) or buy new one and have it T4 programmed. I'm able to communicate with SLABS through Hawkeye and run circuit tests and read VIN from it.
I'll know if ECU is gone too once I get BCU started. Tranny CU and SRS I don't believe is VIN specific, so I can buy used. Is ECU VIN specific also?
#15
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OD is not flashing, mileage reading is steady. There is a cross-line on "D" which is probably TCU related.
Interesting observation:
The following fuses did not have any electrical current conductivity, yet were not burned -- electric current simply was NOT being sent there. This happened on both driver's side fuse panels I tried (2003 & 2004). Mind you, all of these fuses are BCU related.
F3 - Instrument pack switch illumination
F5 - Headlight high beam-LH
F8 - Heated rear window - Heated mirrors
F9 - Headlight normal beam-LH
F10 - Headlight normal beam-RH
F11 - Side & Tail lights - LH, number plate light, switch illumination, trailer socket
F22 - Headlight high beam-RH
F23 - Starter Motor
F33 - Side & Tail lights, radio, trailer socket, switch illumination
Engine fuse box:
F1 - Fuel injectors
F2 - Engine Management System
F7 - Heated front screen - LH
F8 - Heated front screen - RH
From Rave:
"The IDM is integrated into the passenger compartment fuse box, which is mounted behind the fascia below the steering column. There are no harnesses between the fuse box and the IDM. The IDM performs the power switching operations for several of the vehicle's electrical systems.
Interesting observation:
The following fuses did not have any electrical current conductivity, yet were not burned -- electric current simply was NOT being sent there. This happened on both driver's side fuse panels I tried (2003 & 2004). Mind you, all of these fuses are BCU related.
F3 - Instrument pack switch illumination
F5 - Headlight high beam-LH
F8 - Heated rear window - Heated mirrors
F9 - Headlight normal beam-LH
F10 - Headlight normal beam-RH
F11 - Side & Tail lights - LH, number plate light, switch illumination, trailer socket
F22 - Headlight high beam-RH
F23 - Starter Motor
F33 - Side & Tail lights, radio, trailer socket, switch illumination
Engine fuse box:
F1 - Fuel injectors
F2 - Engine Management System
F7 - Heated front screen - LH
F8 - Heated front screen - RH
From Rave:
"The IDM is integrated into the passenger compartment fuse box, which is mounted behind the fascia below the steering column. There are no harnesses between the fuse box and the IDM. The IDM performs the power switching operations for several of the vehicle's electrical systems.
The IDM communicates with the BCU and the instrument pack via a serial interface. If the BCU or the IDM is replaced, the communications link between the two units has to be re-established. This can be done either by switching on the ignition and leaving it on for five minutes, or by using TestBook. The vehicle immobilisation will remain active until the communications link between the BCU and IDM has been re-established."
If I understand correctly, IDM is sending electricity to BCU which in turn is not looping?
Last edited by disco524; 07-27-2010 at 01:40 AM. Reason: NOT sending electricity
#16
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GOT IT WORKING!!! - 26K miles engine purrs better than my other Discos.
A good friend sold me matching BCU, ECU, fuse panel and instrument cluster from a 2003 parts Disco he owns. I also bought a used Tranny CU and rebuilt starter motor from Auto Zone ($91 w/ my old starter as core). I want it to use his instrument panel in order to keep my original 26K miles odo panel in order to show dealer along with all pertinent documentation as to original mileage in the event at time of flood hoping they can reset original miles along w/ FOB and VIN programming into BCU.
Mind you, it was an extensive labor of love quite lengthy for me to type now.
Only two issues remain:
1. Radio, amp & CD changer fried. Money I would spend to replace with used units can better be utilized getting a DUAL receiver that includes a pop-out GPS navigation system, mp3, ipod, cd, dvd player for about $550 from crutchfield. It will fit into my radio opening w/ slight modification. I think I'll let a pro handle installation due to not having to figure out Disco's wiring.
2. A/C is blowing warm air. I got some type of a/c switch DTC fault code in my scanner and accidentally erased it and Hawkeye does not store fault codes. Only if found again, then it will show historical and then present. Also, it blows it mainly thru floor and rear of center console. Vent selector will not enable it to blow from top vents. I sprayed CRC electronic connectors cleaner/lubricant to all connectors in engine and interior. No blown fuses either. Freon pressure if on the high side of blue (normal charged).
Any idea what switch would cause this?
Once again, thanks for all of your well-taken advice and support I needed to take on what seemed a lost cause.
A good friend sold me matching BCU, ECU, fuse panel and instrument cluster from a 2003 parts Disco he owns. I also bought a used Tranny CU and rebuilt starter motor from Auto Zone ($91 w/ my old starter as core). I want it to use his instrument panel in order to keep my original 26K miles odo panel in order to show dealer along with all pertinent documentation as to original mileage in the event at time of flood hoping they can reset original miles along w/ FOB and VIN programming into BCU.
Mind you, it was an extensive labor of love quite lengthy for me to type now.
Only two issues remain:
1. Radio, amp & CD changer fried. Money I would spend to replace with used units can better be utilized getting a DUAL receiver that includes a pop-out GPS navigation system, mp3, ipod, cd, dvd player for about $550 from crutchfield. It will fit into my radio opening w/ slight modification. I think I'll let a pro handle installation due to not having to figure out Disco's wiring.
2. A/C is blowing warm air. I got some type of a/c switch DTC fault code in my scanner and accidentally erased it and Hawkeye does not store fault codes. Only if found again, then it will show historical and then present. Also, it blows it mainly thru floor and rear of center console. Vent selector will not enable it to blow from top vents. I sprayed CRC electronic connectors cleaner/lubricant to all connectors in engine and interior. No blown fuses either. Freon pressure if on the high side of blue (normal charged).
Any idea what switch would cause this?
Once again, thanks for all of your well-taken advice and support I needed to take on what seemed a lost cause.
Last edited by disco524; 07-30-2010 at 01:33 AM. Reason: Forgot to add
#18
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http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/d...%20LR%20Disco/
I'm now still working on getting a/c and radio working. I'll be transferring my 2001 Disco 18" rims, roof rack and running boards to this silver one. Will post final product pic into my profile soon, I hope.
#19
#20
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Got A/C working!!! Just need flap controller mechanism to distribute air flow.
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grandkodiak
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