my rover is an 03, 95k miles, and not sure if the coolant has ever been changed. diffs are crystal clear, i replaced transfer case fluid, i use Rotella T6 engine oil with mobil1 301 filter.

next weekend im going to be doing my coolant, probably either going with Peak coolant, or Toyota brand coolant(Trailhead 4x4 reccomended it), or BMW blue stuff, still deciding. im ordering the thermostat from Atlantic British, and the filter kit from Advance Autoparts. ill probably re-use the stock trans gasket, i heard if its in good shape, it seals better than the aftermarket rubber gaskets.

anything i should look out for or that will make things easier? i read to remove lower radiator hose, and heater core hoses, and flush out, anything i should do with the upper hose? and where should i flush from? how do u get the water out from flushing, before you put the 50/50 mix coolant in?

for the trans, im going to do the filter, replace with new Valvoline Dex/merc fluid(buying 7 quarts) and then drain the fluid again in a few months and refill again to get most of the old fluid out as possible.

im pretty mechanically inclined, just have never done a trans fluid swap, or coolant swap on these rovers. the trans fluid is nice to have a drain and fill plug, and shift through the gears, good job Land Rover

if i missed anything, ill post up, but any help is much appreciated. i did a lot of searching too. just want some current up to date advice, some entries were a few years old.

thanks, Ray

 

This is how I do a coolant flush.
Drain the system.
Remove the upper hose from the radiator, back flush with water, both the block and the radiator.
Put that hose back, fill the system with water.
Idle engine with the heat on for 20 min.
Let cool for 20 min or so, drain.
If needed refill and repeat.
Once the water comes our clear you are good to go on the flushing.
Dont worry about the water left in the engine, there will not be enough to say so.
If you want piece of mind once done test the freeze protection with a tester.

 

x2 on spikes method. And, if you're really ****, like me, you can also remove the block drain plug on the left hand block drain plug (the right side is next to impossible to remove) and blow through the hose back into the engine with a modified leaf blower to make sure all of the water is out.

 

Hate to correct Spike, but that doesn't work on a D2.
Always fill and bleed the engine when it is stone cold, engine off. Once filled and bled, replace the cap and bleed screw, start the engine , with both heaters running and let idle to warmed up. Then in the evening top of the coolant to the cap as well as the following morning, then you'll be set.

 

how are the Pro-King transmission filters/gaskets at Advance Auto Parts? compared to Pro-Line brand that Rovers North sells? i ordered the kit from Advance Auto for 13 bucks. i didnt know how they were, or if they are made in China. According to Pro-Kings site, they appear to be made in the USA/Canada

also, picking up my thermostat from the dealer tomorrow for 31 bucks, maybe next weekend ill have time to swap all these fluids.

and planning on buying 7 quarts of the Valvoline Maxlife ATF Dex/Merc, should be enough