Four Amigos!
#1
Four Amigos!
All,
Last weekend I finally fixed my brake problem. It was either the booster, the master cylinder, the check valve, or the reservoir, because I just replaced all four with some extras I had, then flushed/bled the brakes and, wow, what a difference. The brakes are much better than before, and probably as good as I can get them without a Testbook or similar device. They are very responsive. Even better, it resolved a vacuum leak that apparently was within the booster (though I replacement the check valve and line, too, so it could have been them).
I used a Britpart replacement reservoir. It came wit the reservoir, basket, cap, two grommets for the bottom, and TWO O rings (a larger one for the point where the master cylinder reaches the booster, and a smaller one for... for what? I don't know what the smaller one is for at all. I looked inside the new booster and no other part of the master cylinder assembly would meet anything inside of the booster where the smaller O ring would fit. And, I disassembled the old one and only found one O ring (the larger one). I watched a video and found no reference to a smaller O ring. I'm lost on the smaller O ring. Any help?
Also, after doing all of this I had great brakes, reset all ABS codes (using icarsoft i930), and they immediately came back on. Hill descent, ABS, BRAKE, and Traction control. So I have four amigos.
I didn't have any amigos immediately before, so this has me a little confused. I have done the ABS mod (bypass) and I am not getting any ABS codes of any kind. Should this work itself out with a few drive cycles? This is problematic because I need to get it inspected and registered (I let both lapse last month, while I was doing some upgrades, including the brakes, and enjoying a new to me vehicle), so driving around is iffy.
Upgrades were new fan and fan clutch, new pulleys, LR mats front to rear (I know, but they are so cool I had to mention them), new fan belt (I had some squeaking from the front), some LED's, new shocks... new brake setup, including pads, booster, etc. I can't remember it all. Just general stuff to avoid the misery of replacing the front and rear seals. The most major upgrade was to clean it out!
Best,
Charlie V
Last weekend I finally fixed my brake problem. It was either the booster, the master cylinder, the check valve, or the reservoir, because I just replaced all four with some extras I had, then flushed/bled the brakes and, wow, what a difference. The brakes are much better than before, and probably as good as I can get them without a Testbook or similar device. They are very responsive. Even better, it resolved a vacuum leak that apparently was within the booster (though I replacement the check valve and line, too, so it could have been them).
I used a Britpart replacement reservoir. It came wit the reservoir, basket, cap, two grommets for the bottom, and TWO O rings (a larger one for the point where the master cylinder reaches the booster, and a smaller one for... for what? I don't know what the smaller one is for at all. I looked inside the new booster and no other part of the master cylinder assembly would meet anything inside of the booster where the smaller O ring would fit. And, I disassembled the old one and only found one O ring (the larger one). I watched a video and found no reference to a smaller O ring. I'm lost on the smaller O ring. Any help?
Also, after doing all of this I had great brakes, reset all ABS codes (using icarsoft i930), and they immediately came back on. Hill descent, ABS, BRAKE, and Traction control. So I have four amigos.
I didn't have any amigos immediately before, so this has me a little confused. I have done the ABS mod (bypass) and I am not getting any ABS codes of any kind. Should this work itself out with a few drive cycles? This is problematic because I need to get it inspected and registered (I let both lapse last month, while I was doing some upgrades, including the brakes, and enjoying a new to me vehicle), so driving around is iffy.
Upgrades were new fan and fan clutch, new pulleys, LR mats front to rear (I know, but they are so cool I had to mention them), new fan belt (I had some squeaking from the front), some LED's, new shocks... new brake setup, including pads, booster, etc. I can't remember it all. Just general stuff to avoid the misery of replacing the front and rear seals. The most major upgrade was to clean it out!
Best,
Charlie V
Last edited by Charlie_V; 11-28-2016 at 11:28 AM.
#2
If I remember correctly the smaller O-Ring goes behind the actual master cylinder inside the yellow plastic piece at the back of the master cylinder. The larger O-Ring then goes on the outside of the yellow plastic piece to seal between the Brake Booster and Master Cylinder.
My 02 suffers from the double pump the brake pedal issue and I haven't tried swapping the valve out that attaches to the actual booster.
I may have to give that a shot, as the rest of the system seems perfect and in great shape. After the double pump it stops fine.
My 02 suffers from the double pump the brake pedal issue and I haven't tried swapping the valve out that attaches to the actual booster.
I may have to give that a shot, as the rest of the system seems perfect and in great shape. After the double pump it stops fine.
#3
Hi Charlie, you're being greedy eh, there are only 3 amigos
It sounds like you have either a duff ABS sensor on the wheels (or more maybe) or the ABS modulator is throwing a 'wobbly'. Problem is bleeding the ABS system correctly requires the A & B brake circuits to be activated and there are only a few diagnostic tools capable of this, Nanocom, Hawkeye and Lynx in my world over here. Start with the easiest, the ABS wheel sensors, clean each one then electrically disconnect each one, clean it and spray them with electrical contact spray and re-connect them. Then check and clear all the ABS/brake faults again. If the 3 amigos return then I'm afraid it's down to a sequenced bleed of the braking system. If they still appear you will need to do Option B on the modulator and then re-bleed the system. Good luck.
It sounds like you have either a duff ABS sensor on the wheels (or more maybe) or the ABS modulator is throwing a 'wobbly'. Problem is bleeding the ABS system correctly requires the A & B brake circuits to be activated and there are only a few diagnostic tools capable of this, Nanocom, Hawkeye and Lynx in my world over here. Start with the easiest, the ABS wheel sensors, clean each one then electrically disconnect each one, clean it and spray them with electrical contact spray and re-connect them. Then check and clear all the ABS/brake faults again. If the 3 amigos return then I'm afraid it's down to a sequenced bleed of the braking system. If they still appear you will need to do Option B on the modulator and then re-bleed the system. Good luck.
#4
I've seen plenty of 03/04 D2's show 4 brake related lights. Red Brake Light, Orange TC light, Orange ABS Light, and finally an Orange HDC Light.
Also I'm not 100% sure as I live in a none OBDII county in TX, but I don't think they can fail you for an abs light being on as the brakes are still functioning. I know when they inspected my 98 D1 and never even moved it the ABS Light was on clear as day upon startup like it always is and they never said a word.
Also I'm not 100% sure as I live in a none OBDII county in TX, but I don't think they can fail you for an abs light being on as the brakes are still functioning. I know when they inspected my 98 D1 and never even moved it the ABS Light was on clear as day upon startup like it always is and they never said a word.
#5
I've seen plenty of 03/04 D2's show 4 brake related lights. Red Brake Light, Orange TC light, Orange ABS Light, and finally an Orange HDC Light.
Also I'm not 100% sure as I live in a none OBDII county in TX, but I don't think they can fail you for an abs light being on as the brakes are still functioning. I know when they inspected my 98 D1 and never even moved it the ABS Light was on clear as day upon startup like it always is and they never said a word.
Also I'm not 100% sure as I live in a none OBDII county in TX, but I don't think they can fail you for an abs light being on as the brakes are still functioning. I know when they inspected my 98 D1 and never even moved it the ABS Light was on clear as day upon startup like it always is and they never said a word.
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#9
Thanks for the responses. I've done option B on the shuttle switch and none of my abs sensors are throwing a code at the moment, so I'm afraid it is down to the real deal staged bleed. What a bummer. But I'm in it for the long haul so I need to find a cheapie nanocom. Why, when I type nanocom does my phone autocorrect to baboon? There must be a reason.
I am in a non everything County in the oil patch so I think it will pass inspection as long as it goes and stops, but the dash lights hurt my feelings.
So, anyone in Tyler or Longview, Texas have a nanocom or do I need to start searching?!
I actually got a fifth amigo. My abs sensors aren't happy now. Never ends...
I am in a non everything County in the oil patch so I think it will pass inspection as long as it goes and stops, but the dash lights hurt my feelings.
So, anyone in Tyler or Longview, Texas have a nanocom or do I need to start searching?!
I actually got a fifth amigo. My abs sensors aren't happy now. Never ends...
Last edited by Charlie_V; 11-28-2016 at 10:39 PM.
#10
That is probably a transient "rough road" condition. The only way I have found (short of having a nanocom or similar) to figure those out is to have an ABS amigo or an icarsoft i930, that gives you the specific brake code and can reset them.