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  #11  
Old 11-28-2016, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
Hi Charlie, you're being greedy eh, there are only 3 amigos

It sounds like you have either a duff ABS sensor on the wheels (or more maybe) or the ABS modulator is throwing a 'wobbly'. Problem is bleeding the ABS system correctly requires the A & B brake circuits to be activated and there are only a few diagnostic tools capable of this, Nanocom, Hawkeye and Lynx in my world over here. Start with the easiest, the ABS wheel sensors, clean each one then electrically disconnect each one, clean it and spray them with electrical contact spray and re-connect them. Then check and clear all the ABS/brake faults again. If the 3 amigos return then I'm afraid it's down to a sequenced bleed of the braking system. If they still appear you will need to do Option B on the modulator and then re-bleed the system. Good luck.
My front abs connections are soldered. I know that's going to bite me in the *** someday, if not now.

I got some Chinese abs sensors once and the connectors wouldn't fit, so... YOLO... I cut and soldered. Ugh.
 
  #12  
Old 11-29-2016, 06:13 AM
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FWIW, the 4 amigos are the same code you get when you pull the fuse for the ABS system. So, before you go too crazy check the fuse, and be sure there's not a fault in the wiring to the ABS modulator.
 
  #13  
Old 11-29-2016, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by dr. mordo
FWIW, the 4 amigos are the same code you get when you pull the fuse for the ABS system. So, before you go too crazy check the fuse, and be sure there's not a fault in the wiring to the ABS modulator.
Useful info Dr M, worth knowing.
 
  #14  
Old 11-30-2016, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by dr. mordo
FWIW, the 4 amigos are the same code you get when you pull the fuse for the ABS system. So, before you go too crazy check the fuse, and be sure there's not a fault in the wiring to the ABS modulator.
WHOA WHOA WHOA!

That's USEFUL information! I'll check that out.
 
  #15  
Old 11-30-2016, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
If I remember correctly the smaller O-Ring goes behind the actual master cylinder inside the yellow plastic piece at the back of the master cylinder. The larger O-Ring then goes on the outside of the yellow plastic piece to seal between the Brake Booster and Master Cylinder.

My 02 suffers from the double pump the brake pedal issue and I haven't tried swapping the valve out that attaches to the actual booster.

I may have to give that a shot, as the rest of the system seems perfect and in great shape. After the double pump it stops fine.
Best, help me understand where you are talking about for the smaller o ring. This si they first time I've ever messed with that end of the braking system in anything. Reservoir connects to master cylinder and seats in the yellow doohickey then to the drum and the pedal. The big one seals the master cylinder to the drum, so now where would the small one go? I hope I missed something I can get to without having to rebleed the brakes.
 
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Old 11-30-2016, 03:55 PM
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So even in the wild west there are some warning lights that will not pass inspection. To wit, the red brake light (fourth amigo).

I disconnected the battery and tied the positive and negative cakes together for a few minutes and that took care of that.

Silly rover.
 
  #17  
Old 12-01-2016, 07:41 AM
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The smaller O-Ring rest inside the yellow cover. Normally the 65-70 Rebuild kit's come with the reservoir seals, reservoir, cap, metal clip, yellow end cap, and the O-Rings.

I've honestly never come across a D2 that was leaking from those O-Rings. It's always the seals between the Master Cylinder and the reservoir (mainly the back one) that fail and puke brake fluid all over the place.

When I've replaced that yellow cover at the back of the master cylinder I usually break the tabs on the old one, replace the O-Rings, and install the new yellow cover.

If you were to start having the brake fluid level drop without any noticeable leaks then it could be the rear of the Master Cylinder leaking, but at that point I'd replace the entire thing. My 99 has the aftermarket one on it from AllMakes4x4 and it looks like a much beefier/improved unit over the skinny OEM black painted one. If your brake fluid level isn't dropping I'm pretty sure that one little O-Ring isn't going to bother ya.
 
  #18  
Old 12-03-2016, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
The smaller O-Ring rest inside the yellow cover. Normally the 65-70 Rebuild kit's come with the reservoir seals, reservoir, cap, metal clip, yellow end cap, and the O-Rings.

I've honestly never come across a D2 that was leaking from those O-Rings. It's always the seals between the Master Cylinder and the reservoir (mainly the back one) that fail and puke brake fluid all over the place.

When I've replaced that yellow cover at the back of the master cylinder I usually break the tabs on the old one, replace the O-Rings, and install the new yellow cover.

If you were to start having the brake fluid level drop without any noticeable leaks then it could be the rear of the Master Cylinder leaking, but at that point I'd replace the entire thing. My 99 has the aftermarket one on it from AllMakes4x4 and it looks like a much beefier/improved unit over the skinny OEM black painted one. If your brake fluid level isn't dropping I'm pretty sure that one little O-Ring isn't going to bother ya.
Okay thanks for that. Whew! That's a relief because I re used my old yellow part, not wanting to break the tabs. I disconnected the battery and the brake light went out, so I took it for inspection and it passed.

After it passed, I was talking with the inspector about needing to go beyond my driveway bleed to get more brake pressure and he pulled out a Matco computer with Bluetooth obdii connection; he was able to cycle the abs unit and test everything with it, so I got him to do a brake bleed and WOW. NEW BRAKES!!!! No trips to the dealership for that for me.
 
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