When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After looking at a few Disco 2's I decided this one was the least offensive of the bunch. Some service history, over all condition was good and a motivated seller. So I drove it home. Now planning on going through and addressing the list of "issues" and full service. During my inspection I knew frame rot was an issue. So I'm
looking for anyone whose had experience the 6 piece this frame repair kits.
Good fitment?
Downsides of this kid or method of repair?
Upsides of this repair?
I'm in the process of descaling, rust converting and encapsulating the frame. As I proceed in my prepping my frame, I'm evaluating how I should proceed. I'm in the process of smacking the frame with a hand sledge and poking to find the rotted areas. The state of my frame shows rot at the gas tank strap, on top of the right side. The left side of the frame appears to be solid, as I have not been able poke holes in it. The rear portion across the two rails at rear, appears to be very solid with only surface rust.
I'm trying to make an educated decision on which way to proceed. I have the capabilities to repair this myself just need to decide on a plan. I plan on doing rust conversion and encapsulating on the underside. What products have you had good luck with?
FYI - I DID NOT INSTALL THE ZIP TIES ON THE GAS TANK STRAP. I WOULD HAVE REPAIRED IT PROPERLY.
So, I have the following options:
Replace using the entire rear chassis kit available, like the Rover's North.
Making my own patches
Or purchasing one of the kits list below, which either the same or similar to each other.
Zip tie joke aside, I think the trick is how much good metal you can get to weld the patches too. I am not the expert here but you really need to find solid metal and go from there. I would check the frame forward to see where the rust stops or becomes minimal enough that a patch or replacement frame can be attached and have structural integrity. The rust look pretty bad in the photos. Those areas pictured I doubt could be cleaned enough to weld to and get strong enough results.
From the pictures you are looking at at least a 1/4 chassis swap or maybe a 1/2 chassis depending on how far the rot goes forward on the frame. A fabricator maybe able to weld up a custom solution to patch it together potentially. Hard to tell from the pictures the true extent.
From the pictures you are looking at at least a 1/4 chassis swap or maybe a 1/2 chassis depending on how far the rot goes forward on the frame. A fabricator maybe able to weld up a custom solution to patch it together potentially. Hard to tell from the pictures the true extent.
It's solid forward for the hitch support. But yes, I've already inquired about the availability of a 1/4 chassis rear swap. I'm also looking at the pre-cut patches, then fabricating and adding the additional pieces to tie it all together top and bottom. I've rescued bigger worse projects! See my avatar! But point taken thanks!
It always makes me wonder how someone who just looks at a picture in a post can total your rear end for you.
There are plenty of threads, including photos and discussions about severity and salvaging rear frame rot on the D2. A bit of notorious rear frame rail rot isn’t necessarily a death sentence for the truck.
If you have experience; then use it to inspect where & how far the cancerous punk has infiltrated, as you can use that threshold to compare how much further a rear frame replacement would run vs patches.
if you have experience, you’ll see for yourself that the enclosed boxed frame of these d2’s are internally webbed with significant integrity - so you could be pleasantly suprised to see there is viable frame to weld to.
You can ask for someone locally to you who welds/fabricates to have a look. Someone who understands how much work it is to get to the patch may have some better news then a rear frame replacement.
It always makes me wonder how someone who just looks at a picture in a post can total your rear end for you.
There are plenty of threads, including photos and discussions about severity and salvaging rear frame rot on the D2. A bit of notorious rear frame rail rot isn’t necessarily a death sentence for the truck.
If you have experience; then use it to inspect where & how far the cancerous punk has infiltrated, as you can use that threshold to compare how much further a rear frame replacement would run vs patches.
if you have experience, you’ll see for yourself that the enclosed boxed frame of these d2’s are internally webbed with significant integrity - so you could be pleasantly suprised to see there is viable frame to weld to.
You can ask for someone locally to you who welds/fabricates to have a look. Someone who understands how much work it is to get to the patch may have some better news then a rear frame replacement.
.
I'm pretty sure I don't need a new frame. If it would ever warm up above 20, I'll kick on kerosene heater in the garage and finish descaling the frame. I've soaked all the bolts in penetrating oil and will remove the hitch, bumper and pull down the exhaust. Exhaust needs replacing and will give me good access to more of the frame to do a really good cleaning, internally and externally. Goal for the upcoming weekend will to make a determination on which route to proceed.
I still waiting to hear from someone whose done the repair with kits, listed above.
By your Reg your in the UK this was my post when I did my cut and shut, PM me if you need advice
Busy Few DaysHI all have a busy few day, my disco failed it test, rust hole in the chassis at the back, so ordered a new section. several choices, I decides to replace the back section
so I have to drain the tank, yes it was full , but by jacking up on the filler cap side as high as I could I syphoned it all out , possible the worse bit to do
I first chopped off the rear cross section, to reduce the weight , when the new chassis arrived measure up the chopped the two sid legs to length
the new bit fitted well, did a trail fit, removed it cleaned up the original sections were it will weld on the refitted it and bolted it up in place
Basicaly, you measure 565 mm from the centre of the rear mounting bolt, that the weld point, I did two cuts, one about 100 mm from the back cross member on both sides and removed the cross member, then after my new section arrived did a final check for my second cut, pointing is 500mm, this way it was easier to remove one side at a time the new section slides over the original if you look at the photos I posted you can see the weld end is splayed out to go over, once fitted, bolt the new section back up at the rear of the body this lines it all up the clamp the top and bottom on both sides to get it lined up finally clamp up the sides so you will need 6 -8 clamps, once its all clamped up, weld it up, to be honest the hardest part was removing the fuel form the tank, it all went very well after I had emptied the tank it was not difficult to do have fun , Im just installing my new steel front bumper
All ready for welding now
well all finished now had a few extra bits to do but the fit of the new section was very good
Last edited by frostythor; 02-11-2021 at 05:18 AM.
02-07-2021 | 07:37 PM
Frame Repair Kits - Feedback
