When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You definitely do not need torque the crank bolt to anything close to 200ft lbs. It will never come out, the engine spinning keeps it screwed in. I have done it a dozen times, I don't even bother holding the flywheel, just torque till it spins the crank.
You definitely do not need torque the crank bolt to anything close to 200ft lbs. It will never come out, the engine spinning keeps it screwed in. I have done it a dozen times, I don't even bother holding the flywheel, just torque till it spins the crank.
I tried that on a Toyota 3.4 v6 years ago, that needed 150' lbs(I know, different animal).
It backed out a couple thousand miles later.
Had to drill and tap to a larger size.
Fix worked good, but wasn't fun.
Until then, my torque wrenches only went to 150' lbs...I bought a torque wrench that goes to 250' lbs for just that purpose.
I used an impact gun for the bolt. My pulley shaft had grooves, just smoothing and a new seal didn't fix it. I got a new pulley, since the rubber was bad. If the rubber is still good, a sleeve is a much cheaper option.
There is also the opportunity to replace the camshaft sensor's o-ring. $0.99 from O'Reilly (National Part #115, ID 11/16", OD 7/8").
End plug for 2" PVC pipes ($2.55 hardware store) to drive in the seal:
I used an impact gun for the bolt. My pulley shaft had grooves, just smoothing and a new seal didn't fix it. I got a new pulley, since the rubber was bad. If the rubber is still good, a sleeve is a much cheaper option.
thanks for the info about that pvc part. I don’t think I’m tracking about your pulley shaft. Is there rubber on the pulley?
The pulley consists of two parts, an inner and an outer. In between there is a layer of rubber for dumping vibrations. It's also called harmonic balancer, crankshaft damper, torsional damper or vibration damper. This rubber gets hard over time and cracks reducing the damping performance. In worst case it can fall apart.
I think you'll find every harmonic balancer on these trucks has cracking in it. Unless there are large gaps, fissures, or chunks missing, I would not worry about them.
I think you'll find every harmonic balancer on these trucks has cracking in it. Unless there are large gaps, fissures, or chunks missing, I would not worry about them.
In my case the shaft had grooves and I wanted a solution which I don't have to worry about in the years to come.
Looking at my "Disco cheat sheet" on my iPhone I found this info about the main seal... "V8 front crankshaft seal #ERR6490G ((ID)50mm x 63.5mm x 8/95); Crankshaft Seal Corteco 15030309B ERR6490 ($14 incl shipping); speedy sleeve National (Federal Mogul) or C/R or SKF #99192"
So I've got a nice oil leak from what I'm pretty sure is the front crank seal. About 15k miles ago I did my HGs, and when I did that I replaced the front cover (long story) and installed a new seal at that time. I'm not entirely sure I did it properly, since it shouldn't be worn out at this time.
It doesn't seem like to bad of a job to fix, but I'm just wondering if there are possible issues I could be facing since its leaking again so soon. I used a seal puller last time, but I remember it being very difficult to remove. I also wasn't sure if there was a "right" way to re-install the new seal.
Thoughts/tip/tricks?
a buddy of mine has had great success sleeving these - how do I know? I mine is sleeved and has never leaked since! Call RoverLand in Dawsonville Ga
