Is this still a recommended drive shaft replacement after doing a 2" lift (I have an OME 2" HD lift kit in my garage waiting to be installed... springs, shocks and steering damper). Not sure if that even matters, but wanted to check before I purchase anything. Also, I see some drive shafts have additional grease points as compared to the Lucky8 one... and seem to cost more too. Just wondering if there is something a little better, that one should consider is all... My drive shaft has been replaced twice. Yes, twice... once under warranty and then a few years later by a non-LR shop that just put another OEM one in. All before I knew anything about all this. I'd like to finally get it right this time. I like the color of the GBR one (I do, but obviously kidding about that), but not sure about spending $424 if the Lucky8 one will suffice. No hard core off road driving for me, but I will soon be pulling some sort of camping RTT trailer setup if that matters.

 

Why remove the shaft to grease the u-joints and centering ball? Four new bolts and eight new nylocs every time you do that.

 

It's pretty much impossible to properly grease the centering ball without dropping the end of the shaft that has the double cardon joint due to the angle of it.

After discussing the issue of drive line bolts and nuts with 2 local shops here in Houston who do nothing but build them I am of the opinion that the bolts do not need to be replaced unless they show signs of wear and I only replace the nyloc nuts after 3 or 4 times being removed.

 

I bought a bigazz bag of 9g nyloks, from fastenal. Should last longer than needed. Not on shaft, but I am not opposed to reusing nyloks, but only with the added use of thread locker.

 

Don't replace the bolts, only the nyloc nuts. And you can't possibly grease the centering ball without dropping at least that part of the shaft.

 

So how can anyone do it for $20? The book time on dropping the front shaft is an hour. Most places that would be around $80.