I noticed that most places (Atlantic British $399 plus coreand Rover Connection $395 plus core) only sell the front drive shaft. It looks like Rover connection already takes care of the grease fittings that Mike reccommends doing, so that is the one I would get.Doesanyone know if the rear shaft is available or does it not have the same issues at the front shaft?

So it looks like the costs would be compared as follows:
(3) u joints at $39.00 ea. = $117.00
(1) Precision 617 Ball Kit= $25.00
plus labor...my guess is $200.00
for a total ofapprox$345.00

So I say the drive shaft from Rover Connection is not all that bad of a deal. ...or try it yourself and burn up a Saturdayand grease all over the work bench. I prefer the swappin out of the parts.

I'll plan on picking up the flex coupler kit with the bolts from rover connection for $95.00l. I just need some help with what to do with the rear shaft. I can pick up one U joint from Rover connection, but wasn't sure if they are allthe same size?

Am I missing anything here?...... Or Should I be good to go with buying: 1 front shaft assembly, 1 flex coupler kit, and1greasable U joint...?

 

no you're not missing anything, upretty much summed it up. You are not very likely to need new bolts unless you've been drving in extremely corrosive environments, inwhich case the ujoint bolts would be the least of your problems. I read on the forums that the rear UJ lasts ALOT longer than the front cardon shaft joints. Sure enough I found that my rearUJ was indeed in terrific shape thanks to regular greasing. I replaced it anyway sinceI was there,& it took all of 20 minutes after the on the job training i got changing out the 3 UJs on the front shaft. You could swap out the front shaft assembly easily in 2 hrs start-2-finish, see if that fixes your problem, and then do the rear shaft joints later as needed. Enjoy!
________
Nature'S Holistic Caregivers Gardena. Ca

 

yes, the rear UJ is the identical part as the front 3 UJs.
________
IOLITE PORTABLE VAPORIZER

 

Shall I assume that TVB000110A same item # for the 03?? On Rover Connection the item states that it is for 99~02. But you know what happens when you assume!!!!!!!! Please advise!

 

Well.....I took the advice of the forum and avoided a disaster. I replaced all of my U joints and Flex rotor this weekend. (BTW -I had 168,000 miles on the original joints).....Not hard to do at all if your are a gear head and know your way around the car. My question is this....

Prior to pulling the drive shaft(s) I marked everything to ensure things went back the way they came out. But, during the process of the rebuild I lost a couple of the marks on the the matting surfaces between the drive shaft and the weight on the T-case. I am 50% sure I put it back the way it came out since the bolt pattern(s) only allow it to be off by 180 degrees......
Now I have some slight harmonic vibration at about 55 - 65 MPH only....nothing at lower or higher speeds.This vibration is ever so slight, but yet I don't want it to cause other damage ortrouble down the line.

Is there an easy way to fix this w/o having a multiple of trial and error sessions of pulling the DS and putting it back until it goes away?

 

I'm in the same boat. I'm glad someone made a post on this.

Questions:
(3) u joints at $39.00 ea. = $117.00 (Rover connection part# TVC100010A???)
(1) Precision 617 Ball Kit= $25.00

#1-The U-Joints sold at Rover Connection are what type? Are the precision PCN-344 acceptable?
#2-Where do I get the 617 Ball Kit? Does Rover Connection have it also? I don't see it.

#3-Any recommendations for finding that seal? Might as well replace it while we're at it.


Thanks,
-u

 

Yes you can, the problem is, it also does not have grease fittings. If you want to buy new, buy a new shaft from Tom Woods for around $320 and his have all the grease fittings and is a better then factory drive shaft.

 

Did you install a new centering ball kit, if not that is your problem. If you did install a centering ball kit, when reassembled, di you test rotae the joionts to meake sure it moved freely?

 

I doubt it, was the vib there before? If your TC has a CDL you could lock itandpull the shaft off and drive without it, that would eliminate the shaft. Def make sure that all the joints are nice and loose (but tight - you know what I mean).

 

I bought everything at Advance Auto for like $80. I think the joints were Neapco and the ball was precision maybe. They work fine. I never found the rubber boot around the ball though.