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  #21  
Old 08-13-2021 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by discoinfernoOSV
Decided to just go ahead and grease the driveshaft since I had time this morning. Can only find the zerk in the middle of the shaft. Doesn't appear to be anywhere else to grease to my knowledge. Checked back at the service where the u-joints were swapped, and they were done with OEM non-greasable joints. I guess I'm in the market for a drive shaft now. I see Tom Woods are very popular, but at the moment they are out of stock. Any other recommendations? I'll search the forum as well of course.

Great Basin rovers. Absolutely zero vibrations with mine and will work stock height or with up to 3" lift I believe.and it's green!
 
  #22  
Old 08-13-2021 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tnrangerover
Great Basin rovers. Absolutely zero vibrations with mine and will work stock height or with up to 3" lift I believe.and it's green!
just making sure, this one? https://gbrutah.com/shop/drive-shaft...-driveshaft-2/

​​​​​​Was wondering about a lift. It isn't lifted yet but that was on the list as a future mod. Wouldn't go above 3", the wife can barely get in as it is 🤣🤣.
 
  #23  
Old 08-13-2021 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by discoinfernoOSV
just making sure, this one? https://gbrutah.com/shop/drive-shaft...-driveshaft-2/

​​​​​​Was wondering about a lift. It isn't lifted yet but that was on the list as a future mod. Wouldn't go above 3", the wife can barely get in as it is 🤣🤣.
Yep that's it. a bit pricey but fantastic quality.
 
  #24  
Old 08-13-2021 | 04:17 PM
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Default Might have to wait till Monday...


 
  #25  
Old 08-13-2021 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by discoinfernoOSV

give them a call. That’s how I ordered mine.
 
  #26  
Old 08-13-2021 | 06:00 PM
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You already have a greaseable driveshaft.



You need one of these fittings for your grease gun...




Any parts store will have these fittings, probably less than twenty bucks...beats the heck out of five hundred.

You just push this nipple ended fitting against zert (circled in first photo) and pump grease in. Me, l like the one that has a rubber tip, seals better.

 
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  #27  
Old 08-13-2021 | 06:14 PM
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Okay, lots to catch up with here.

It's not a matter of how the various joints look. Grab each of them. Try to shake them. If any one of them is loose replace it. And replace its twin.

As for the ball joints, don't panic. The ones in my truck have looked like that for years (i.e. rubber boots disintegrated). Yet, when I jack up each front wheel and test them (as described by The Deputy) there is no play. And, a VERY reputable local LR-only shop has told me they've seen the same thing with DIIs for years and years.
 
  #28  
Old 08-13-2021 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mln01
Okay, lots to catch up with here.

It's not a matter of how the various joints look. Grab each of them. Try to shake them. If any one of them is loose replace it. And replace its twin.

As for the ball joints, don't panic. The ones in my truck have looked like that for years (i.e. rubber boots disintegrated). Yet, when I jack up each front wheel and test them (as described by The Deputy) there is no play. And, a VERY reputable local LR-only shop has told me they've seen the same thing with DIIs for years and years.
My lower ball joint boots have been cracked badly for years. I've had two excellent independent Rover shops tell me the same thing...they rarely fail due to torn boots. They both said if there is no play or clunk, keep driving on them. You'd think one of the two would try to sell me on replacing them. I spray some penatrating oil in them from time to time and inspect them regularly.
 
  #29  
Old 08-13-2021 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
You already have a greaseable driveshaft.



You need one of these fittings for your grease gun...




Any parts store will have these fittings, probably less than twenty bucks...beats the heck out of five hundred.

You just push this nipple ended fitting against zert (circled in first photo) and pump grease in. Me, l like the one that has a rubber tip, seals better.
Wow. OK. I did not realize those were places to grease at all. Thanks for setting me straight. That is a LOT cheaper than getting a new driveshaft. Still, I am thinking of getting another one to have on hand just in case. Maybe I'll go with a cheaper option then. I'm trying not to be a noob, but failing at the moment.

Originally Posted by mln01
Okay, lots to catch up with here.

It's not a matter of how the various joints look. Grab each of them. Try to shake them. If any one of them is loose replace it. And replace its twin.

As for the ball joints, don't panic. The ones in my truck have looked like that for years (i.e. rubber boots disintegrated). Yet, when I jack up each front wheel and test them (as described by The Deputy) there is no play. And, a VERY reputable local LR-only shop has told me they've seen the same thing with DIIs for years and years.
I haven't had a chance to test the ball joints yet, hopefully, tomorrow. I did pull on everything and the stabilizer and the drop-link/swaybars (I think I am correctly identifying them) had play whereas nothing else did. I had read that about the ball joint boots. I'll do the test and go from there. How often do you test yours?
Thank you all for the help. I hate being a noob, but when it comes to cars I totally am. Learning and doing as fast as I can, but a steep learning curve.
 
  #30  
Old 08-15-2021 | 07:33 PM
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Crawled under again today and yanked on everything I could. Mostly seems tight except the stabilizer and sway bar connects. Ended up taking this plastic piece out (it's junk right?) And noticed one of the brackets that this screws into towards the back is loose. Looks like it's held on by a rivet but the river is an inch or so away from the frame. Not sure it's solid enough to be making the noise, but it is making some noise I'd imagine. Thinking of just removing it. Still haven't done the ball joint test. Need a bigger pry bar than what I have.
 


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