Front end noise
#21
Decided to just go ahead and grease the driveshaft since I had time this morning. Can only find the zerk in the middle of the shaft. Doesn't appear to be anywhere else to grease to my knowledge. Checked back at the service where the u-joints were swapped, and they were done with OEM non-greasable joints. I guess I'm in the market for a drive shaft now. I see Tom Woods are very popular, but at the moment they are out of stock. Any other recommendations? I'll search the forum as well of course.
Great Basin rovers. Absolutely zero vibrations with mine and will work stock height or with up to 3" lift I believe.and it's green!
#22
Was wondering about a lift. It isn't lifted yet but that was on the list as a future mod. Wouldn't go above 3", the wife can barely get in as it is 🤣🤣.
#23
just making sure, this one? https://gbrutah.com/shop/drive-shaft...-driveshaft-2/
Was wondering about a lift. It isn't lifted yet but that was on the list as a future mod. Wouldn't go above 3", the wife can barely get in as it is 🤣🤣.
Was wondering about a lift. It isn't lifted yet but that was on the list as a future mod. Wouldn't go above 3", the wife can barely get in as it is 🤣🤣.
#26
You already have a greaseable driveshaft.
You need one of these fittings for your grease gun...
Any parts store will have these fittings, probably less than twenty bucks...beats the heck out of five hundred.
You just push this nipple ended fitting against zert (circled in first photo) and pump grease in. Me, l like the one that has a rubber tip, seals better.
You need one of these fittings for your grease gun...
Any parts store will have these fittings, probably less than twenty bucks...beats the heck out of five hundred.
You just push this nipple ended fitting against zert (circled in first photo) and pump grease in. Me, l like the one that has a rubber tip, seals better.
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discoinfernoOSV (08-13-2021)
#27
Okay, lots to catch up with here.
It's not a matter of how the various joints look. Grab each of them. Try to shake them. If any one of them is loose replace it. And replace its twin.
As for the ball joints, don't panic. The ones in my truck have looked like that for years (i.e. rubber boots disintegrated). Yet, when I jack up each front wheel and test them (as described by The Deputy) there is no play. And, a VERY reputable local LR-only shop has told me they've seen the same thing with DIIs for years and years.
It's not a matter of how the various joints look. Grab each of them. Try to shake them. If any one of them is loose replace it. And replace its twin.
As for the ball joints, don't panic. The ones in my truck have looked like that for years (i.e. rubber boots disintegrated). Yet, when I jack up each front wheel and test them (as described by The Deputy) there is no play. And, a VERY reputable local LR-only shop has told me they've seen the same thing with DIIs for years and years.
#28
Okay, lots to catch up with here.
It's not a matter of how the various joints look. Grab each of them. Try to shake them. If any one of them is loose replace it. And replace its twin.
As for the ball joints, don't panic. The ones in my truck have looked like that for years (i.e. rubber boots disintegrated). Yet, when I jack up each front wheel and test them (as described by The Deputy) there is no play. And, a VERY reputable local LR-only shop has told me they've seen the same thing with DIIs for years and years.
It's not a matter of how the various joints look. Grab each of them. Try to shake them. If any one of them is loose replace it. And replace its twin.
As for the ball joints, don't panic. The ones in my truck have looked like that for years (i.e. rubber boots disintegrated). Yet, when I jack up each front wheel and test them (as described by The Deputy) there is no play. And, a VERY reputable local LR-only shop has told me they've seen the same thing with DIIs for years and years.
#29
You already have a greaseable driveshaft.
You need one of these fittings for your grease gun...
Any parts store will have these fittings, probably less than twenty bucks...beats the heck out of five hundred.
You just push this nipple ended fitting against zert (circled in first photo) and pump grease in. Me, l like the one that has a rubber tip, seals better.
You need one of these fittings for your grease gun...
Any parts store will have these fittings, probably less than twenty bucks...beats the heck out of five hundred.
You just push this nipple ended fitting against zert (circled in first photo) and pump grease in. Me, l like the one that has a rubber tip, seals better.
Okay, lots to catch up with here.
It's not a matter of how the various joints look. Grab each of them. Try to shake them. If any one of them is loose replace it. And replace its twin.
As for the ball joints, don't panic. The ones in my truck have looked like that for years (i.e. rubber boots disintegrated). Yet, when I jack up each front wheel and test them (as described by The Deputy) there is no play. And, a VERY reputable local LR-only shop has told me they've seen the same thing with DIIs for years and years.
It's not a matter of how the various joints look. Grab each of them. Try to shake them. If any one of them is loose replace it. And replace its twin.
As for the ball joints, don't panic. The ones in my truck have looked like that for years (i.e. rubber boots disintegrated). Yet, when I jack up each front wheel and test them (as described by The Deputy) there is no play. And, a VERY reputable local LR-only shop has told me they've seen the same thing with DIIs for years and years.
Thank you all for the help. I hate being a noob, but when it comes to cars I totally am. Learning and doing as fast as I can, but a steep learning curve.
#30
Crawled under again today and yanked on everything I could. Mostly seems tight except the stabilizer and sway bar connects. Ended up taking this plastic piece out (it's junk right?) And noticed one of the brackets that this screws into towards the back is loose. Looks like it's held on by a rivet but the river is an inch or so away from the frame. Not sure it's solid enough to be making the noise, but it is making some noise I'd imagine. Thinking of just removing it. Still haven't done the ball joint test. Need a bigger pry bar than what I have.