Front prop shaft replacement clarification
#1
Front prop shaft replacement clarification
Ok, so I've read and read and read on this, ordered a new front shaft from Lucky 8 and got it today. But, before I swap it out, I have one last question.
I was told on this forum if I don't have 4 zerks to grease, replace the shaft. Well, I dug out the papers last night and found the shaft was rebuilt in 2010 with all new greaseable u-joints. The only zerk I don't have is the one on the collar shaft next to the rubber boot. I've greased all three and seen all three. But the reading I did kept saying if it's original (the shaft, not the u joints) replace it. 3 zerks not 4, replace it.
So, I thought, gotta get a new shaft because that's where it fails, at the rubber boot with no zerk. Then I read there's a blank screw there (which I saw) and you remove the screw, grease the shaft and put the screw back.
If I had 3 greaseable ujoints all along, just no zerk on the shaft collar, did I need the new shaft?
This is the only zerk my shaft is missing: http://www.lucky8llc.com/Products.as...BProduct%5D/2/
I was told on this forum if I don't have 4 zerks to grease, replace the shaft. Well, I dug out the papers last night and found the shaft was rebuilt in 2010 with all new greaseable u-joints. The only zerk I don't have is the one on the collar shaft next to the rubber boot. I've greased all three and seen all three. But the reading I did kept saying if it's original (the shaft, not the u joints) replace it. 3 zerks not 4, replace it.
So, I thought, gotta get a new shaft because that's where it fails, at the rubber boot with no zerk. Then I read there's a blank screw there (which I saw) and you remove the screw, grease the shaft and put the screw back.
If I had 3 greaseable ujoints all along, just no zerk on the shaft collar, did I need the new shaft?
This is the only zerk my shaft is missing: http://www.lucky8llc.com/Products.as...BProduct%5D/2/
Last edited by jamieb; 02-11-2016 at 06:52 PM.
#2
If you had a stock drive shaft it would not have any greasable ujounts.
If you have greasable u-joints then it was already repaired or replaced.
You probably didn't have to replace it.
The one you are missing is often replaced with a plug after servicing because that one can easily damaged
If you have greasable u-joints then it was already repaired or replaced.
You probably didn't have to replace it.
The one you are missing is often replaced with a plug after servicing because that one can easily damaged
Ok, so I've read and read and read on this, ordered a new front shaft from Lucky 8 and got it today. But, before I swap it out, I have one last question.
I was told on this forum if I don't have 4 zerks to grease, replace the shaft. Well, I dug out the papers last night and found the shaft was rebuilt in 2010 with all new greaseable u-joints. The only zerk I don't have is the one on the collar shaft next to the rubber boot. I've greased all three and seen all three. But the reading I did kept saying if it's original, replace it. 3 zerks, replace it.
So, I thought, gotta get a new shaft because that's where it fails, at the rubber boot with no zerk. Then I read there's a blank screw there (which I saw) and you remove the screw, grease the shaft and put the screw back.
If I had 3 greaseable ujoints all along, just no zerk on the shaft collar, did I need the new shaft?
This is the only zerk my shaft is missing: Lucky8 Llc. - Take the road less traveled...
I was told on this forum if I don't have 4 zerks to grease, replace the shaft. Well, I dug out the papers last night and found the shaft was rebuilt in 2010 with all new greaseable u-joints. The only zerk I don't have is the one on the collar shaft next to the rubber boot. I've greased all three and seen all three. But the reading I did kept saying if it's original, replace it. 3 zerks, replace it.
So, I thought, gotta get a new shaft because that's where it fails, at the rubber boot with no zerk. Then I read there's a blank screw there (which I saw) and you remove the screw, grease the shaft and put the screw back.
If I had 3 greaseable ujoints all along, just no zerk on the shaft collar, did I need the new shaft?
This is the only zerk my shaft is missing: Lucky8 Llc. - Take the road less traveled...
Last edited by drowssap; 02-12-2016 at 06:57 AM.
#3
If you had a stock drive shaft it would not have any greasable ujounts. If you have greasable u-joints then it was already repaired or replaced. You probably didn't have to replace it.
The one you are missing is often replaced with a plug after servicing because that one can easily damaged
The one you are missing is often replaced with a plug after servicing because that one can easily damaged
I was just focusing so much on the shaft itself. Not the U joints. I kept seeing the picture of the new shaft with that collar nipple and convinced myself that was the missing piece I did not have. Oh well. Live and learn.
Last edited by jamieb; 02-11-2016 at 06:53 PM.
#4
#6
You can have an OEM shaft rebuilt with new u-joints along with the center ball, and as long as you grease it during routine maintenance you'd be fine. People basically just replace the entire shaft because by the time you have it rebuilt/balanced at a shop you could have just bought the shaft from lucky8.
My 02 Kalahari has an OEM LR front shaft (LR sticker was still on it) and it has two zerk fittings. One for the front u-joint, and for the slip yoke.
The part that will fail on any front shaft on the D2 is the center ball, or the u-joints if you DO NOT grease them regularly. Doesn't matter if it's OEM, or a lucky8 shaft.
My 02 Kalahari has an OEM LR front shaft (LR sticker was still on it) and it has two zerk fittings. One for the front u-joint, and for the slip yoke.
The part that will fail on any front shaft on the D2 is the center ball, or the u-joints if you DO NOT grease them regularly. Doesn't matter if it's OEM, or a lucky8 shaft.
#7
#8
If it's in your way and want gone shoot me a PM. Mine's due for an overhaul and wouldn't mind having yours to run for a few days while doing it.
Did someone say they use anti-seize on the flange plates? Any tips on where to use anti-seize when installing?
......
#9
#10
Use anti-seize on the front differential flange and the transfer box flange. You could also use lithium grease but it won't last as long. This is so that the shaft doesn't rust-weld itself to the transfer box or differential.