Ok, so I've read and read and read on this, ordered a new front shaft from Lucky 8 and got it today. But, before I swap it out, I have one last question.

I was told on this forum if I don't have 4 zerks to grease, replace the shaft. Well, I dug out the papers last night and found the shaft was rebuilt in 2010 with all new greaseable u-joints. The only zerk I don't have is the one on the collar shaft next to the rubber boot. I've greased all three and seen all three. But the reading I did kept saying if it's original (the shaft, not the u joints) replace it. 3 zerks not 4, replace it.

So, I thought, gotta get a new shaft because that's where it fails, at the rubber boot with no zerk. Then I read there's a blank screw there (which I saw) and you remove the screw, grease the shaft and put the screw back.

If I had 3 greaseable ujoints all along, just no zerk on the shaft collar, did I need the new shaft?

This is the only zerk my shaft is missing: http://www.lucky8llc.com/Products.as...BProduct%5D/2/

 

If you had a stock drive shaft it would not have any greasable ujounts.

If you have greasable u-joints then it was already repaired or replaced.

You probably didn't have to replace it.

The one you are missing is often replaced with a plug after servicing because that one can easily damaged

 

Ok thanks. I'll still put the new one on. The rebuild showed O'Reilly receipts for u joints and last year one joint rusted and failed so we replaced it.

I was just focusing so much on the shaft itself. Not the U joints. I kept seeing the picture of the new shaft with that collar nipple and convinced myself that was the missing piece I did not have. Oh well. Live and learn.

 

It's often plugged, removal of plug and temporary fitting of zerk required to grease sliding portion of shaft. Most D2s came from factory with grease fitting on fwd u-joint of shaft but not installed in two within hookes joint.
......

 

Looks like I now have a spare shaft with 3 greaseable u-joints or one to sell soon. :-)

 

You can have an OEM shaft rebuilt with new u-joints along with the center ball, and as long as you grease it during routine maintenance you'd be fine. People basically just replace the entire shaft because by the time you have it rebuilt/balanced at a shop you could have just bought the shaft from lucky8.

My 02 Kalahari has an OEM LR front shaft (LR sticker was still on it) and it has two zerk fittings. One for the front u-joint, and for the slip yoke.

The part that will fail on any front shaft on the D2 is the center ball, or the u-joints if you DO NOT grease them regularly. Doesn't matter if it's OEM, or a lucky8 shaft.

 

I'm going to chalk this up to peace of mind swap out. They were not greased regularly.

Did someone say they use anti-seize on the flange plates? Any tips on where to use anti-seize when installing?

 

You may want to keep as a spare, if/when you have time, garage/tools, get new u-joints/spicer ball and rebuild the shaft yourself. Swap out shafts. When it works well you'll have learned a new mech skill.

If it's in your way and want gone shoot me a PM. Mine's due for an overhaul and wouldn't mind having yours to run for a few days while doing it.

Read that a couple of days ago. Never had issues with drive flanges in past but will use the anti-seize on D2 if dissimilar metals involved. Have on hand and used for other applications in the past. Probably not an issue unless salt used on your roads. If stuck a few blows with appropriate sized dead-blow hammer should free them.
......

 

Plugging the shaft zerk hole instead of leaving the zerk in is actually the technically correct thing to do. Leaving the zerk in could affect the balance of the shaft, although many people do leave it and have no problems.

 

Use anti-seize on the front differential flange and the transfer box flange. You could also use lithium grease but it won't last as long. This is so that the shaft doesn't rust-weld itself to the transfer box or differential.