I'm in Denver as well. There is guy who advertises Land Rover parts on Craigs. Seems to have a good supply of used items ..........

 

"Honestly, if I were you I'd just buy a new aftermarket shaft and wash my hands of it. I wouldn't take any chances with the front drive shaft."

 

Thanks everybody for your help. Quick update:

Found a shop recommended by a mechanic buddy, Rocky Mountain Drive Line, that happens to be just a few blocks away. Took it over there and they promised a 1 day turn around to replace the flange, build the driveshaft, and balance it all for $100. (I supplied U-joints) We'll see how they do.

The flange on the transfer case was rusted as ****!!!! Photo attached. My plan is to clean it with WD-40 and a brass wire brush. Think there is anything else I need to do here other than wait for my refurbished shaft?

Thanks

 

Grab a propane torch and heat it up for a while.
On a side note: changing the u-jonits is a nasty bitch in these things. for how much time and money you'll spend, you might be better just buying an entire d-shaft with gressable zerks for $300...or less.

But thats not gona fix your current problem.

 

Since you had that much trouble with it being stuck, put some Anti-seeze on the flange face, not a lot, but I would definitely use something that will shed some water...IMO

 

Lets just hope all that hammering didn't screw up the transfer case flange. You will now in a pretty quickly....one either it will whine like a banchi or 2 it will start leaking in the near future.

 

Before I put my shaft back in, I dremeled the driveshaft until it fit easily into the transfer case flange. As I recall, the circular protrusion on my rear prop shaft flange was cast too large and didn't want to mate with the transfer case flange. The dremel cured it.

 

Worst comes to worst:


Transfer Box Output Flange Kit Front (STC4379 Same Fit As Part # STC4379 ) - Land Rover transfer box from Atlantic British


I think you'll be fine, I don't think the flange is bent, I hammer the **** out of mine and its still straight

 

well I guess You found out why it didn't come off
I had a feeling it was rusted behind the flange........

 

Final report:

Got the new shaft back yesterday, looks great. Grease ports on the ends of the U-joints make it much easier to grease. Installed it, took her out for a drive, great at low speed. got up to highway speed and it's smooth as can be. Eliminated a rumble from the front end that was diagnosed by the shop for previous owner (which was the real motive for this project.)

All in all, the drive line shop upped their price to $240 after discovering he slip joint was shot (?) After that, I have about $300 into the stupid thing which is a strong argument for future builders to just buy a new aftermarket shaft and not worry about getting an old (even if it is aftermarket) shaft disconnected in one piece.