Front Sun Roof Repair - part needed
#1
Front Sun Roof Repair - part needed
Hi Folks. I have taken the plunge to fix the front sun roof leak(s) and fix the front sun roof itself so it opens and closes. I've gotten a new working motor, but the cable assembly is frozen and one side is cracked (someone other than myself has been in this area before.
What is the official name of the cable assembly that the motor drives? I need to replace mine - cable, brackets, sliders, etc - the whole assembly..
Thank you in advance for the help!
What is the official name of the cable assembly that the motor drives? I need to replace mine - cable, brackets, sliders, etc - the whole assembly..
Thank you in advance for the help!
#2
#3
I replaced mine also due to the previous owner had sealed it shut.
It's actually easier to find a salvage yard and remove the 14 Torx screws that hold it in and just replace the entire unit. Also sunroofs are relative cheap from a salvage yard.
You will need to partially drop the headliner.
It's actually easier to find a salvage yard and remove the 14 Torx screws that hold it in and just replace the entire unit. Also sunroofs are relative cheap from a salvage yard.
You will need to partially drop the headliner.
#5
Thanks everyone. I found an entire, used assembly on ebay that was tested from a running vehicle and did not leak. The pan even has the unbroken drain line spigots. I didn't necessarily need the glass, but this assembly will have cleaner glass as the PO tried (and failed!) to caulk the entire sunroof. The back sunroof works fine and does not leak. I'll report back if there are issues with the new assembly. Thanks to everyone!
#7
#8
As for the tracks, you can still buy them new. About 600-800 from LR.
See images at bottom, from Land Rover Monthly in 2014.
4 places to seal up:
1) between the plastic frame on the roof and the roof (it's originally held by double sided tape, you want to run a bead of black sikaflex etc under it after removing and cleaning up the paint on top of the truck)
2) the plastic sunroof drain tube trays/nozzles - remove and reseal them to the black metal frame, buy new plastic trays if needed.
3) seal the metal frame to the top of the truck (ie run a bead around the black metal, then lift it up to the roof, and then you'll use the mounting screws)
4) The rubber seal between the glass and the upper plastic frame. May need to be replaced. There is only the aftermarket Britpart seal available, which I've found kind of sucks compared to the original. it's fine but original LR seal which is no longer avail is better.
It's quite easy ... once you disassemble everything. And laughably I have a D2 in the garage w/ the roofs & headlining out waiting for all of these fixes.
See images at bottom, from Land Rover Monthly in 2014.
4 places to seal up:
1) between the plastic frame on the roof and the roof (it's originally held by double sided tape, you want to run a bead of black sikaflex etc under it after removing and cleaning up the paint on top of the truck)
2) the plastic sunroof drain tube trays/nozzles - remove and reseal them to the black metal frame, buy new plastic trays if needed.
3) seal the metal frame to the top of the truck (ie run a bead around the black metal, then lift it up to the roof, and then you'll use the mounting screws)
4) The rubber seal between the glass and the upper plastic frame. May need to be replaced. There is only the aftermarket Britpart seal available, which I've found kind of sucks compared to the original. it's fine but original LR seal which is no longer avail is better.
It's quite easy ... once you disassemble everything. And laughably I have a D2 in the garage w/ the roofs & headlining out waiting for all of these fixes.
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Dervish (01-13-2023)
#10
For anyone that has done these repairs, specifically using silicone to seal the plastic sunroof frame to the metal roof of the vehicle, have you ever had to go back and remove the now “bonded” sunroof assembly/frame from the vehicle again? Is that possible without damaging the sunroof frame or roof? Thanks!
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