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Fuel Pump relay signal

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Old Mar 14, 2023 | 07:19 PM
  #11  
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Key cylinder is unrelated to the fuel pump relay, the key problem is a cylinder tumbler wear issue, well known. There are thread on repairing.

Does the fuel pump run for 20 seconds when the ignition is switched on?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2023 | 03:03 PM
  #12  
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No. I think I traced it to the Inertia circuit the relay isn't getting a ground signal from the ECM..
 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 05:32 PM
  #13  
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I am bring this thread back up because I’m having the same problem.

Im not getting any power to the pump for priming im only getting power while cranking.

2004 97k

any suggestions or solutions?
 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 08:14 PM
  #14  
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So have you traced it out like Jnorman?
 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 08:49 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
So have you traced it out like Jnorman?
Well I havn’t pin pointed to what I’m not getting from where exactly. However I’ve check everything! Ive jumped the Inertia switch from pin to pin on the connector, checked all of the grounds (except engine braided strap on behind the driver side valve cover I can’t get to it), fuse 10 is good, fuel pump relay is good (swapped every single yellow relay no change), I’m getting power to both fuse and relays, continuity is good through both the ground wire and supply wire both with .8 resistance. I’m getting continuity from the ground wire to the body.

Not sure what to check next. If you have a disco 2 can you tell me if you the key to position 2 and back off again and tell me if it primes each time or just once initially until has started
 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 10:24 PM
  #16  
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It should prime every time
 
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Old May 22, 2024 | 10:32 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Harvlr
It should prime every time
That’s what I thought.

Any link to download schematic?
 
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Old May 23, 2024 | 09:16 AM
  #18  
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Okay to throw a wrench into this whole thing I may have found more evidence to this weird problem.

While doing testing the other day I jumped my pump directly to power to get my car started. I got it running for a few minutes but then shut it off. To see if it would start on its own I reconnected the plug to the pump and turned the key. I swear I heard the pump priming! I turned the key off and back on and it primed again. I am almost certain I heard it those both times. Since then I have not heard it prime again or have gotten any volts showing for it to prime.

I read a forum of this guy having the same no priming issue. While in his forum he states that he can hear it prime only when the engine is already warm not at cold. Of course he never updated his findings.

Post # 7 https://www.landroversonly.com/threa...d-start.68378/

I have an 04 with SAI he has an 02 without SAI so we can rule out that.

To try and repeat this scenario I will jump the pump again and get it started and let it run. Then will see if I’m getting any power for priming.

I’ll report back





 
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Old May 23, 2024 | 09:42 AM
  #19  
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I will agree that you seem to have an unusual issue. Sometimes the ECM'S on these trucks do weird things. I recently purchased a 52,000 original mile D2 that was throwing a persistent 1552 code. After changing the idle air control valve and tracing all the wiring out I decided to test it out with a different ECM and the problem went away and has not come back. I find it is a good idea to have a spare set of ECM, BCM and instrument cluster on the shelf for troubleshooting issues like this. They are relatively affordable from wrecking yards or your favorite Land Rover dismantle
 
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Old May 23, 2024 | 09:58 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
I will agree that you seem to have an unusual issue. Sometimes the ECM'S on these trucks do weird things. I recently purchased a 52,000 original mile D2 that was throwing a persistent 1552 code. After changing the idle air control valve and tracing all the wiring out I decided to test it out with a different ECM and the problem went away and has not come back. I find it is a good idea to have a spare set of ECM, BCM and instrument cluster on the shelf for troubleshooting issues like this. They are relatively affordable from wrecking yards or your favorite Land Rover dismantle
worse comes to worse do those 3 things need to changed all together from a spare rover? Anything else like immobilizer or ignition?
 
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