Ha. Well we'll see. The truck starts right up, but I just moved it only to apply a little rust bullet under the battery tray which had corroded a bit.

So I'll wait until that paint dries, then put the battery back, *then* start up the truck and let it get hot and see if the problem is fixed. (I know, I know, I've violated the prime directive while troubleshooting: "fix only one thing at a time."

It's a true-ism at my house - there's no such thing as "1/2 hr in and out." :-) Once I decide to work on the vehicle, I'm pretty much at it all day.

S'long as y'all bear with my verbose postings, I'll post here again with the final answer re: "did the new CKP sensor fix it?"

 

SO did the new CKP sensor fix it?? Or was it something else??

 

This thread is from 2009.
No one will know, care or remember.

 

Yes! It took me two days, cloths hangers, super long screw drivers, and finally the skinny little arm of my daughter. Why on earth don't they make that connection line 18" long and wind it up or something. I just had head gaskets replaced too. I sure wish I would have asked them to replace the Crank Position Sensor when I was more accessible. And they should put an extension on the electrical line too so you can get at it in the future. The other end of that part was difficult as well. The whole thing was almost impossible. The exhaust manifold bolts could not be budged so I left it in rather than break them off. And it did not fix my problem. No I need to know where the inertia switch is that might be stopping my fuel pump.

 

Fire wall on passenger side. just push the button on top to reset it.
But if your hazards aren't flashing, then it's no the inertia switch.

 

found it. it didn't help. The switch looks nice and clean. I have an iLand Diagnostic tool coming soon that I hope will help me narrow down the problem. I found one 20amp fuse that looked bad and replaced it. Swapped the Fuel Relay with one of the others, don't know if it was bad. Probably not. Didn't work. I don't know if I am getting any fuel to the engine or not. Perhaps from the new battery getting weaker from all the start tests I am showing the green M and S lights blinking. The shift indicator (little red light) is blinking when in Drive position. I suspect that it could be wires from the Crank Position Sensor which are back behind the engine and impossible to reach with out taking off the intake manifold and valve covers, possibly even the heads? I don't know what else to check with out the diagnostic tool.

 

It's kind of easy and a pain to get to the Crankshaft position sensor.
The sensor is located near cylinder 7 and you don't have to take off the valve cover or the heads.
It's a cover with a couple of bolts and unclipping of the connector to replace it. reinstall in reverse order with a "BOSCH" sensor.
I've done it twice already in the past 2 months and got the process down now.

 

I just joined the LR forum after I got a 1999 LR Discovery Series II. I do have the very same problem and also smell gasoline in the engine oil. Did you get your LR fixed and what was the problem?

 

I just joined the LR forum after I got a 1999 LR Discovery Series II. I do have the very same problem and also smell gasoline in the engine oil. Did you get your LR fixed and what was the problem?