Been having the xyz issues all the time on our 2004 V8 auto. Betty.
Blinkin M+S lights etc, Nanocom gives the position switch code.

So, off to getting the xyz out for a cleanup.

Got the first nut off releasing the selector cable, got the clip off and took the cable out and moved aside.
Next the nut retaining the lever.
Rusted up, properly.

Loosened, tightened, loosened, thightened, loosened.
Seemed to be moving a bit by bit, and then...
SNAP.

Yeah, the nut did not come off, but the gear selector shaft snapped.
Plenty of "naughty words" were along with me under Betty at that time.

Put it all back together, cleaned out, put the tools away etc.

I did not want to disturb the lever anymore, trying to take it off or anything.
So, it will hopefully be rusted enough to stay on for now.
Great news is that there is a local Rover club cruise etc weekend in two weeks, and and.. well.. f**k...

So, how do I fix this?
The selector shaft?

I looked at rave and seems like I need to drop the transmission oilpan and valve block and then I have access to the selector shaft.
But where do I get a new one or how do I fix the current one?

I can see there are a few partnumbers fo the shaft, but seems like none are for sale...
THE000010L and STC4724

 

Yep, need to replace. Best option is maybe find one where someones driveshaft came apart and took out their trans.

 

Seems like its going to be a long wait to find a shaft that is not broken.
I've found two ZF's, but the price, ~1500 euros, not getting one for parts, definately not.

I can see several forums posts, here and elsewhere, with this same issue, but not really any resolutions.

So, I'll have to drop the pan and possibly the valvebody, get the shaft out, have someone weld some threads on it and hope it'll be okay.

Good to have a few D2's..
The TD5 has it's head in a machine shop checked if it can be salvaged (injector socket cracked) and now this on the V8.
This must mean I need a few more D2's

 

Here is the shaft in question: https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...nsmission.html
You need to drill a hole into the body to get the old shaft out and the new in: https://www.landroversonly.com/threa...g-bolt.158009/

 

So, the selector shaft is now out.

Put a magnet on the body under the car where the shaft is.


And then looked for the magnet on the inside with a bolt. Still have the carpets off, so it was easy.


Some drilling later, a hole appeared and the shaft came off.
Oh yeah, and had to punch the pin off the shaft first.
No need to drop the valvebody at this point.


So, this is it then.



I found a transmission that is only ~100 euros, but it's from some Range Rover, and it doesn't seem to have a XYZ switch, so the shaft seems to be shorter, so no go. Bugger.

I'll have to see about the idea of getting someone to weld a bolt on the thead of the shaft and grind, thread etc it to fit.

Thanks @Discorama for the link. I was only looking for THE000020 and STC4724 that are obsolete on classic parts catalogue.
If I''m not succesfull on the weld scenario, I'll have to order it from there.


EDIT:
Bin the welding idea, it might take too long etc.

Is that THE000010L really good for a 2004 disco?
I'll order it as soon as I get some more confirmation on this...

 

Check out Best4x4's post in the thread linked below. Instead of welding something to extend the shaft, he suggests drilling and tapping a hole in the end of it and using a screw and washers to mount the shift lever to it.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-mount-112913/

 

Thanks.

Someone on a local forum also suggested tapping the head, so I did my best.

Just had space for a M4 thread. Even tho It's a bit on the side and not perfectly straight.
Did not have a drill press, so did by hand, not too bad I think...
Just need to find a bigger washer on it just to be sure.




I did order that Range Rover THE000010L shaft.
If it doesn't come in time for next week, so I have Betty driving on the weekend, this will have to do for now.
Won't be putting the new one in immediately, don't want to drop the oil again etc.

BTW.
It says in the manual that the autotrans oil capacity is 9.7 liters (or so, memory not so fine), I drained the oil, and, no way it was 9.7 liters that came out. The rest is still in there, in the valvebody etc?

 

Nice work! Might put a little loctite on that bolt thread.

Edit, I wouldn't use that hex head either. I realize you're probably not going to leave it on there very long but you won't get nearly as much tightening (or loosening) torque with a hex head. It could give you trouble if you loctite the threads. Should be easy to get vice-grips on it in either instance, but I'd still use a hex bolt.

 

Yeah, going to get something else for the bolt if this is to be used.
It just was the only M4 bolt I found yesterday at work.

It seems that I will not need this, as the new part should arrive tomorrow from JLR classic.

 

I remember when I did the transmission service, only a fraction can be drained, less than 1.5 gallon. That's why I change the ATF twice (I go on a short ride around the block in between) to flush the old fluid out as good as possible. So replacing the fluid multiple times in your case is not a waste.