I have been trying to troubleshoot this issue myself for 2 months now and have taken it to a mechanic. It started that every morning I had a dead battery, after 2 replacements and alternator check I have narrowed down the problem to Fuse #20, 15 Amp. Once this is removed, there is no issue with battery drain. The problem is, Fuse 20 does so many things!! Just looking over the schematics that I have, it keeps the radio from turning on, keeps interior lights from functioning and doesn't turn the A/C back on to it's previous setting (the A/C is off and you have to turn it on and turn the temp back down)

The fuse pulls off of the Link 3 under the hood and ends up at several places in the vehicle. I have checked the interior lights and there is no pull, but I have no clue what else is on the line and how to check everything! Bottom line is I need to get this fixed ASAP as I was putting it up to sell very soon. This electrical issue certainly keeps it from it's maximum value!

Any suggestions are welcomed, Thanks in advance!

 

Do you have a multimeter? If so can you tell us how many amps are being pulled with everything off, with and without this fuse?

 

Yes, with the car off, door closed and the fuse out, on the 10A setting, it reads 0.05, same when the fuse is in and the door closed with the car off. When the door is open, it reads 1.15 and the interior lights are on (with both fuse in and out) hope this helps you ha

 

No, sorry, mistake there, with the door closed and fuse out it reads 0.00 and 0.05 with the fuse in, sorry I cannot read my own notes

 

I've seen something similar to this in the past. Couple of questions. 1. if you have the key on and the radio playing, does the radio shut off when you turn the key off?, if it doesn't turn off 2. Check and see if you have a rear (3rd row) audio controls. The reason I ask is that I tried to diagnose a similar problem years ago (under warranty) it was driving me nuts. Rover Technical finally instructed me to replace the wiring harness (complete, not a fun job). Did that and guess what, same thing. So I started checking around, looking at the wiring diagrams, then by chance I pulled the rear panel out where the rear audio controls would have been if this model had been equipped with it and the plug was there but the diagram showed a bridge between the contacts on the models without rear audio control "hmm" says I to myself. I went to parts and of course they just happened to have that bridge piece in stock so I plugged it into the wiring pigtail and amazingly the draw went away. Apparently when they were constructing this particular truck, they ran out of the bridge plugs so the just left it off (LR logic) The result was that if this bridge isn't there, the radio thinks the kiddies are in the back and the parents want them to be able to listen to the radio while they go in the store so it leaves the radio (and some other things) active. I've only seen this once (that was enough) but your story reminded me of it.

 

.05 is pretty low. I'm surprised it's enough to drain the battery. Any chance something else kicks on later and raises the amp draw? Do you have a recent SLS to coil conversion?

 

No, the radio functions as it should. The radio cuts off when the car is turned off. This Fuse #20 being pulled does however keep the radio from turning on at all, despite it being the actual "radio" fuse.

I will check now for that bridge as mine is not equipped with the rear controls, like I said, any and all suggestions please! Thanks

 

No jafir, it never had SLS, I can't think of what could kick on, it is for sure that fuse though, if I put it back in now the battery would be dead first thing in the morning. I just don't know what is all on that fuse line, I will monitor the readings at the 10A setting when I get a chance and make sure I did that correctly.

 

Since you've narrowed down the fuse, you should be able to get the ETM from rave and disconnect things in that circuit one at a time. I've seen once where a cassette player in an Acura would try to eject the tape when you turn the key off. It was damaged somehow and would keep ejecting even though everything was done.

 

According to RAVE that fuse controls
Interior lights
Clock/Radio memory
Engine Remobilisation
Compact Disc Player (if fitted).
Just to be sure you're using your multimeter correctly, pull the suspect fuse out, plug one lead of the meter into one side of the fuse slot, the other lead on the other side. Set the leads and meter to amps. (there is no way to test amperage with the fuse in place, what you're doing is replacing the fuse with the meter, amp measurements can't be taken in parallel like voltage). I'd start by checking that all your interior lights are going off (including the glove box light, that one is often missed) Then start unplugging things while watching your meter, when your amperage drops significantly. I usually figured 60MA was where I wanted to see for normal parasitic draw so 50MA on one fuse is too much. The engine immobilizer is a tough one to disconnect so you may have to approach that by elimination. if the radio, cd player, and all the lights are unplugged and you still have a draw, that may be the culprit. Good luck.