OK I did quite a bit of google machining this information before I stepped into this project. I wanted to put a Disco I CDL transfer case into my Disco II Non-CDL. I found one from a manual Discovery I for sale locally for $65 with the shifter so I had to jump on it. I noticed that it wasn't quite as simple as all the research led me to believe. From researching multiple forums; I was under the assumption all I needed to do was pull off my front output assembly and stick the new one on while the main transfer case was still in the vehicle. I thought the biggest problem I may run into was that I may have to remove the rear output assembly to clear the front for removal. I even researched transfer cases for automatics vs manuals and once again, general consensus was that they are all the same. All I had to do was swap over the nuetral safety switch type stuff; but only if I wanted to. This was hardly the case at all. The parts were fairly different. In retrospect the parts that were incompatible makes sense, but upfront it was not apparent when I initially set out by scouring different forums.

I just wanted to share the information and what I was up against so that others can have the same knowledge up front.

I have a 2002 Disco II Automatic with non-locking CDL and bought a 96 Disco I Manual with locking CDL to put in.


Problem 1: The tooth count on the low range gears was different between the two cases I had. This prevented the front housing from the 96 from going into my 02 transfer case.

Reason: LT230 transfer cases had changes done along the years to make them less likely to leak and more quiet.

Fix: I ended up using the Discovery I front output assembly along with the Discovery I main transfer case portion.

Here's the difference between mine and the 1996. Notice the difference in teeth count on the low range gears.





Problem 2: The Discovery I transfer case did not have a Hi/Low Detect switch. (The wire loom coming out the front in the picture below)

Reason: I'm assuming this is used for the Traction Control/HDC systems. Hill Decent being enabled only in LOW range.

Fix: This is on my list of stuff to address when I'm buttoning the top back up. I plan to fabricate a simple bracket to hold a push button type switch. Electrically it will serve the same function and be transparent to the computer.

*Also note that on the right side that there is a small sensor on the D1 output assembly and not on the DII assembly. This is the switch that tells the computer it's locked up. If your fortunate, which I was, you will have two extra connectors in the wiring harness above your transfer case that can plug into this. If not there are instructions online to run wires between this and your computer.



Problem 3: The Discovery I front output shaft adapter is different than the Discovery II front output shaft adapter.

Reason: The Discovery II's have the Double Cardon assembly.

Fix: Just spin the front nut off and the two adapters are interchangeable. No biggy, but it had me sweating at first.



Problem 4: Not really a problem, as I could have just used it, but the Discovery I rear output shaft had a speed sensor on it. I saw it as another chance to leak.

Reason: Discovery I has the speed sensor on the rear output shaft on the transfer case, Discovery II placed this sensor on the transmission.

Fix: You could use the DI tail section and just not have anything plugged in. I chose to just use the DII tail section.

 

VERY NICE JOB!!!
This is going to be added to the write up section.

 

Great write up!
Seems like you really know your way around the garage.

 

Great write up. I always suggest if people want to modify there non-cdl case that they use a 99 or new case that has all the up-grades just for the reasons you mentioned, good work.

 

As you move forward in your installation you may run into issues with the actual linkage from the manual LT230. It mounts differently to the R380 than the linkage in an automatic. There are actual differences in the design because of the differences between the automatic and the manual. Nothing that will scuttle the job but it's definitely easier using a linkage from a DI that was equipped with an automatic transmission. You'll see what I'm talking about soon enough.
Cheers,
Paul

 

Thanks for the info. I did luck out and got an automatic shift linkage setup. The guy had one laying around.

 

If it wasn't for getting such a great deal on this, I figure I saved myself at least $250 on the two parts, I would not have done this. It was a lot of work and none of it was fun; save for making the small bracket. In the event that anyone else goes down this round about road here's at least one option to make it all work.

If you look back at the first post I mentioned the new one does not have a Hi/Low detect switch hole. I was going to use a push button from a store, but then decided I'll just use the stock one since it's there an free and obviously sealed since it sits in gear oil. I decided to use the pivot part as the area that will push the button; reason being space is at a premium where the lever is on the transfer case and it'd be too involved to use the shift lever since you can be in low for locked and unlocked.

First order of business was to make a tiny tab to stick onto the pivoting area of the shifter assembly. This is what will push the switches probe in.


Then I went ahead and made a bracket. I took the top section of the shifter assembly off and traced it on cardboard; including the bolt holes, center hole for shift lever, and the hole for the switch. I used an air cutoff tool ($10 at harbor freight) to cut out some sheet metal I had. You'll have to make sure you don't use too flimsy of a sheet metal though or it'll flex too much.


I sandwiched the sheetmetal bracket I made between the shifter housing and the top cover plate. I used two jam nuts (M14x1.50) from ACE to adjust/fasten the hi/low detect switch into place.

Here's the switch disengaged (open electrical circuit) when the shifter is in high.


And here is the switch pushed in (closed electrical circuit) when in low range.


I was also missing two pins for the shift assembly; the pivot point for the cdl linkage and the one to connect to the hi/low lever. I substituted clevis pins in and cut them to length and then used a hitch pin to keep them from sliding back out. Hopefully this will help someone if they buy a DI shift linkage and are missing these pieces as well.

For the pivot point I cut the clevis pin down to the first hole and beveled it on my bench belt sander. The actual loop that the linkage pivots on is a 3/8" opening, but the hole on the shift lever was smaller. I'm not sure why they did this as it'd make for a sloppy connection IMO. I just ran a drill bit through the cdl linkage and opened it up.



Same as above, but for the hi/low linkage at the transfer case. Drilled out the hi/low linkage, the transfer case's arm was already 3/8". The pin needed to be slightly longer as well, you can see I cut it after the second hole.


Then I put it all together, using an M8x1.25 for the CDL nipple and cut a hole in the transmission tunnel plate out for the shifter and switch. I was able to cover this up with the rubber shift boot that came with the shifter. I just put the plate back on top of the transmission tunnel and temp bolted it in place vs underneath like it previously was. I didn't want to go back and rivet it before testing all of this. I'll fix this later and probably put the sound deadening material back in with some rtv around the new hole I created to seal it. I'll need to put paint on the hole edges as well to prevent rusting.

After a test drive I found it to be fairly noisy and it makes the center console area pretty warm. I'm also contemplating making a rubber gasket of some sort to stick between the transmission and the transfer case shift assembly to cut down on noise transfer.



It's not necessarily the prettiest or stock looking solution, but it all works. The CDL light in the instrument cluster comes on if I lock it in hi or low. To test the hi/low switch I put it in low and pushed the mode button on the shifter. It went to manual mode so the computer knows it was in low.

 

OMG.... So to avoid this I need a 99-01 CDL?

 

Nice job on the switch. I know you were interested in doing all this on the cheap but for those less intrepid, the small parts like the OEM clevis, clip and bushings are all available from Rovers North, albeit at a premium.

Land Rover Discovery I Transmission Levers, Linkage Parts Available from RoversNorth.com

 

Spencer, give me a call or send me an email.