For greasing the rear u-joint. I put a white line on the parking brake drum in line with the zerk fitting so I don't have to get all the way under the truck several times trying to get it to a position that I can get with the grease gun. Now I can just look for the white line on the brake drum to be pointing down.

Willie

 

Willie......you have just single-handedly eliminated countless episodes of swearing and cussing..

 

New to the board just browsing. Don't own a LR, but U-joints are U-joints. Shouldn't be hard to remove. Remove the Drive shaft and take it to a drive shaft shop. For a few bucks they'll fix it and balance your drive shaft. Should be around $50. They'll wreck the clips, but they should have replacements.

On my Land Cruiser you can pull either the front or rear drive shafts and drive in "2 wheel drive" mode until the repair is done. May be an option for you.

 

The problem is that on a DII the front prop shaft has a double cardon joint at the t-case end.
It is 2 u-joints in one housing with a "centering" ball to keep them aligned.
And on a DII there is no way to lock the center diff so that you can drive it on one prop shaft. (there is, but it is complicated and it all depends on what the owner did to the t-case as not all of them came equipt with the CDL and some did but some didnt and the ones that did dont have the shifter hooked up inside the truck and blah blah blah..its best just to say no, DII's do not have a lockable CDL)
Here is what a front prop shaft for a DII looks like.
http://www.roverlandparts.com/1999-2...ewoempart.aspx

 

That's essentially all true, but still, there's nothing special about a DII front propshaft.

 

Gotcha. Well, pulling it shouldn't be a big deal. If the rig can be down for a day or two it's still not real expensive to have a driveline shop fix the problem rather than fight with a jerry-rigged fitting. I know that I'd be far more inclined to grease my own if it were set up right than if I had to fight it each time.

Whatever you work out, good luck!