Hello All,
I replaced my tensioner pulleys, idler pulley's, Serp belt last week. I found a great deal on the tensioner assembly + pulley at Orielly's Auto parts and thought I would pass the savings along. The tensioner lists to fit 00-02. But I thought I would try it because my tensioner from my 03 looked identical, same diameter pulley, same width tensioner, feels the same tension by my torque wrench. It fit perfect and the pulley is metal...no longer plastic! Only $54.99. Its a deal!

This part sells for about $175 @ the dealer and $75 - $90 Dayco after market.
I personally like Gates parts after using them on of my parents vehicles. And they even come OE on a lot of Hondas.

Gates - Automatic Tensioner Assembly

• Part # : 38245

• DriveAlign

• 1 Year Limited Warranty

 

Thanks for passing this along. I put a new belt on when I did my head gaskets but passed on the idlers and tensioner due to price through AB. This sounds like a real good deal, and I've got an Orielly close to home.

I see you are in Indy, are there any decent places to get off road around central Indiana?

 

There is place in Attica, IN named The Badlands.
http://www.badlandsoffroad.com/

Another in Elberfeld, IN named "The Big Nasty" From my short search it sounds like a big mud hole. And now seems closed. But I know a few Jeep guys at a bike shop i frequent and they are always headed down to Evansville so there has to be another place I dont know about.
http://www.riderplanet-usa.com/atv/t...4/map_468c.htm

I have not been to either yet since I just got a front steel bumper and lift this last Summer. Now that I've completely got my maintenance up to date and I will concentrate on my CDL installation in this last cold month of Winter. Then I'll be ready to break stuff. Oh; I mean off-road

 

I'm up in Anderson, and I've been to Attica a few times on my motorcycle, and there is another place closer for us called Haspin Acres over towards Rushville. I've ridden my motorcycle often at Haspin, and it has some double track trails that would be ok to wheel around on and there is plenty of stuff to break a rig on as well!

I just installed a CDL lever on my 01 from a D1, if you need any help or have any questions feel free to ask. It is pretty straight forward, just not much room to work through the small opening. Did you get a whole new transfer case, or just the front section for your 03 since I don't think your tranfer case came with the selector shaft?

Our rigs sound similiar as well. I've got an 01 with OME suspension, ARB front bumper, 265 75 16 Bridgestone Revo tires, G4 guards, ladder, and red top battery...

 

I mountain biked up at Rangeline park a few times last summer. Its Ok for something different. Talk about the some swamp scrap land, but the trails are fun.

I have a full 2004 transfer case with about 39k on it. After all my research and thoughts. I'm going to install the front CDL locking portion, and not the whole case. Other than a small leak on my T/C case in the upper inspection plate my T/C case rolls extra smooth now the with the liquid gold oil Royal Purple 75w140, I hope its fine for a long time to come. I just don't want to break a stud off the exhaust Y pipe when I have to drop it for the CDL install. So that is what is holding me back. I have a D1 shifter sitting here by my desk and it keeps staring me in the face. So basically I'm ready to go. Just dragging my feet on dropping the Y pipe. I thought I might have my favorite local muffler shop install new studs in the Y pipe for me. That way they would come loose easy when I'm ready.

I just completed the 95k maintenance over the last 3 weeks and didn't drive my Rover to save some on the gas inflation. I dropped the oil pan replaced all the fluids other than coolant and power steering. Also replace the crankshaft seal But I still have an oil leak from the front cover. WTF! So i have to get pumped up to replace the timing cover gasket, water pump. And check those large bolts/plugs on the timing cover to see if that is the source of my leaking. Maybe the oil pressure switch is loose. That would be an easy fix. Here was my write-up of the tasks I completed. A little crazy

90,000 Maintenance To Do List === Done

Refit factory headlight washers to offroad steel bumper

 

To funny, I helped build those trails and try to ride them as much as possible in the summer!

I've done quite a bit of maint on my 01 as well. It had 104k on it when I bought it along with blown head gaskets. So while I was doing the head gaskets I went through much of the other maintenance items as well. I did the front cover and timing chain with gears, all new hoses, thermostat, water pump, pan gasket, front drive shaft, and new 8mm plug wires. I thought my front cover could have been leaking as well, but there was so much oil coming down the front it was hard to tell! I went ahead and did it to be safe since I was that far in there anyway. It is a pretty big job getting in there, but if you've done a front crank seal and had the pan off you were most the way there. My gasket did look like it was getting close to failing on the coolant passages, and I've heard that can be really bad, so I'm glad I went ahead and did it.

The engine still is not as smooth as I would like it to be at idle, so I'm going to try new plug wires again, and it feels like its time to replace my rotoflex as well, so one of those is on the way as well. I've gotten to know most of this Rover in and out!

Watch for my Disco if you are ever up at Rangeline!

 

So when you put the timing cover gasket back on how did you make it stick/stay in place? On the oil pan gasket there are little plugs to hold it in place. Did you use any of the Permatex stuff that makes your gasket tacky? I've seen it at AutoZone and looked it up and Its High Tack Permatex 80063. Did the new gasket fully stop your oil leaks? I know this is a really important gasket. I just hate breaking into it because I have to open the coolant system again and I just added new Dex-Cool this late summer. Now if I do this I'm switching to to Peak Global LifeTime. Do you know which lower bolt on the water pump will drain most of the coolant from the engine block. I heard about it on here and now forget. I guess choose the lowest left or right and go for it.

On ignition wires I went with the expensive Magnecore and never looked back. They have been good for about 2.5 years. On plugs, I have tried Bosch +4's, NGK Iridium, OEM Copper Champion, and how I now have installed the E'3 Diamond Fires. The Bosch +4's are really powerful but fade fast into normal power. I like the E'3s now but they are not perfectly smooth, with a very slight hiccup in the idle. Only I notice it. Eventually I want to try the NGK again as they seemed the best. I went through a lot of plug about 2 years ago troubleshooting my first bad idle problem. = bad front O'2 sensors....who would have guessed back when i was a greeny, Rover owner.

 

For the timing cover I believe there are a couple guide dowels towards the top to hold it in place when you install, but you still have to be careful. When I put mine on it did not line up on the passenger side, and I needed to carefully slide it in place after the cover was loosly installed and put then put the capscrews in place on that side. I did not use any sealant as the Rave said to install it dry. I only used sealant at the joints for the front and rear main bearings for the pan gasket, and so far the pan gasket looks to be not leaking as well. As far as I can see I have no leaks in the front cover area now as well. Since I had drained all the coolant down for the head gasket repair I didn't pay much attention when I removed the cover. I even removed the radiator and had it cleaned while I was at it, and made the switch to green coolant when I put everything back together.

I ordered Kinsborne wires in 8mm initially, but I am not sure about them, so I've ordered a set of STI wires which seem to come highly reccomended on here and LRO. I'm also running NGK V Power plugs (only because they did not have enough of the standard NGK plugs in stock). I replaced Bosch platinum plugs with the NGK, and really noticed the idle get better initially, but it is back to being too rough in my opionion. I'd like to test drive or ride in another Dico to see what they are like since this is my first one I'm not sure what they are supposed to be like. I've got a BMW and a Cadillac in the household, and maybe those are not good comparisons, because they are both just buttery smooth... The new wires should be in this week, so I'm hoping for the best. I just wish it would throw a code of some sort to lead me in the right direction. I also replaced both front O2 sensors early on, but I had a code for the passenger side, and just went ahead and replaced both. I'm guessing at this point on the idle issue, and will try coils if the wires don't help. I'm not sure what else to even look at.

 

On your idle issue. I have had an O2 sensor go bad after an induction cleaning(early last summer). I tried cleaning both up(wiping carbon off of them, and adding dieletric grease to the multiplugs). Both were Bosch from Advanced auto. They ended up giving me a new O2 b/c it was just at a year old. Fixed my bad idle and gas/rich smell.(replaced the front Drivers side only).
When you say a rough idle, do you mean it runs fine on acceleratoin, but when comes down to 680rpm at a stop light its a little rough? Also when you look at the motor under the hood do you see the motor have a slight wobble as it runs rough. I get that but it is ever so slight that I can hardly complain about it.

My Disco rides very firm. I run about 38psi in the tires. Have Med Old Man Emu springs up front and Nitro OME shock all the way around. SLS air in the back. When I go down to 35/32psi the ride is more soft & comfortable. But my gas mileage suffers...so I keep it stiff.

 

The rough idle was present before and after I replaced my O2 sensors (with NGK from Advance), but the codes cleared for the O2 sensor in bank 2. The idle is about what you said, it seems to bobble occasionally mainly in gear. If I put it in neutral or park it smooths out. If you watch the engine it looks pretty smooth with the ocassional small movement. The idles seems to get into a resonance with the inside of the cab and cause vibrations from a few spots.

I'm running about 37 PSI all around as well on the tires, but have not played around much with the pressures yet. 37 seems firm, but not harsh, and it does not bother me.