Ok everyone. I have followed Disco Mikes 60k maintenance list to a T and got all completed at 65k.

I have a 2003 DII and now have 95,000 on it. Here is what I did over the last 3 weeks off and on.

• Oil Change, Cleaned air filter, Greased prop shaft
• Rotated Tires - In my one car garage!
• Replaced: As preventative maintenance (Thought is was time 8yrs & 95k)
  • Tensioner Assembly + Pulley - $55 Gates Part # :38245 Gates - Automatic Tensioner Assembly
  • 70mm idler Pulley - $35 LR Dealer Pulley Idler 70MM Polyvee
  • 80mm idler Pulley AB $45 PQR101150K Pulley Idler 80MM Polyvee
  • Gates Serpentine Belt PN: K070922 $42 Gates - Automotive V-Ribbed Belts
• Transmission fluid drain/fill 2 Gal Valvoline Max Life $30 Wal-Mart
• 75wx140 Full Syn Gear Oil Front/Rear/TC Case Drain Fill $100 Royal Purple(5Qrts)

Stopped an Engine oil leak:

• Dropped the oil pan, replaced gasket(I have a 2" lift and all for wheels on tire ramps, easy access. A pressure washer with hot water makes quick work of the sediment in the pan & makes it look shiny.
• Oil pan gasket $36 from AB
• Replaced Crankshaft seal
  • Key is to lock your crankshaft with oil pan off with a lever bar on the fly wheel. A 4 ft breaker bar on the harmonic balancer & you win!
• $27 Crankshaft seal @ the LR Dealer
• All this in about 5 hours not too hard.

For Fun in between the required stuff:

• Relocated window washer reservoir into the engine bay
• Retro fitted Headlight washers to steel off road bumper (Botorff) This took forever!
• Retro fitted HID 5000k Land Rover Factory Fog lights to the Botorff bumper. This took forever too.
• Upgraded my CAI to Black aluminum pipe and silicone couplings. Threw out the cheap Spectrum plastic pipe that was my 1st gen test.
• I have about $350 in parts for the 90k maintenance, Not too bad for all new fluids. Probably would have been $1500 in labor at a shop, but my time is free. Sorry for the long post it was a lot of work!

Harmonic Balancer removed video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYKsOnVDTmo

Sorry for the blurry picture. Pry bar Lever wedged in the flywheel to remove Crankshaft pulley. (oil pan removed)



Crankshaft Pulley ready to come off witha 18" breaker bar and 2ft extension


Under bowels of engine block. View with oil pan removed. Thank you Jesus for air rachets and 10" extentions. It makes short work of the 18 or so bolts.





Ok Cleaning the Oil pan in the video. Now its back installed and no leaks. Fired up the disco and let it idle for about 5min oil pressure is good and its back running smooth Whew, it all worked out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj_CrU0qiqY

Here is the Oil pan reinstalled and looking good




Here is my Diff guard installed and ready for some hits.

 

how much trouble was replacing the crank seal? my rover just hit 90K miles and I think its leaking from there.

 

That was not hard at all. The key is to isolate the crankshaft from turning. So dropping the oil pan made it really easy. Stick a pry bar in the fly wheel openings. So it cannot turn against the block. You could remove the circle inspection plate on the bell housing and try to shove a pry bar in there. That didnt work for me because there is a flange on the torque converter you cannot get past to reach the fly wheel. It took me about 4 tries to get the pry bar to stick because i was working alone at like 2am, but I finally got it. The crankshaft bolt was relatively easy to come loose. It was well lubed with engine oil for a few years. If you have Harbor Freight close this Pittsburgh Tool pick set is your friend, best $8.99 you'll spend in a while. The 90 degree pick will bring the crank seal out.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...set-93958.html

 

I followed most of Disco Mike's laundry list as well, but I had a buddy of mine who is an LR master mechanic help me out. I am pretty good with a wrench, but some of it was beyond my means. It was quite a bit of work, but well worth it. I didn't do the crank seals as they were not leaking at the time, but I think they are starting to go as my rig has about 95K on it now. Thanks for the how to on that.

 

Nice. This may help put me over the edge...i've had a front crank seal and oil pan gasket sitting in my garage just mocking me with my uncertainty! Their days are now numbered.

I think it was good timing for you to replace your pulleys, my '99 has 98k+ and the pulley's were embarrassingly loud, mostly the tensioner, but the two idlers were making a fuss too. Super easy to replace all three at the same time.

I've had a leak that I believe has been from both crank seals for some time now - in the mean time, I swapped to Rotella 15w-40 from the Mobil 5w-30 to see if it would slow it up...I know, a waste of time really. I'm going to go after the crank seals now and a new oil pan gasket and see if she stops leaking...thanks for sharing!

Here's a pic of some mess behind where the tensioner pulley is/was back behind the housing that holds the tensioner...could this be buildup from the crank seal leaking and being blown backwards/upwards? Or could that be from something else?

 

Did you do your plug wires also? You mentioned greasing your drive shafts, have you also rebuilt the front one?

 

Yes Mike, Magnecore wires and rebuilt drive shaft. I'm all over it. I'm the preventative maintenance miser. All in my signature

 

Any pics of your bumper with the upgrades??
Sounds cool.

 

Your leak does not look bad at all. Did you recently power wash your engine?
My front cover and sides of my block were caked with oil. I'm sure a little was from rocker gasket seeping but those bolt are tight. Now I hope to blast that gunk away and see how clean it stays. I have had a that crank seal leaking slowly for almost 2 years, and finally I tackled it. I'm not going to lie, its an ordeal to get all that done but after you torque that last 22nd bolt to 22Nm, you feel like you acomplished somthing. I spread it out over 2 days and did some other fun projects while things were soaking.

 

Yes CamDisco here is my write up on the headlight washer mod. And more pictures/video in this post on the oil pan cleaning.

Refit factory headlight washers to offroad steel bumper