getting random M&S lights which
#1
Getting random M&S lights usually after a short drive
So I am getting random M&S lights,it could be battery, poor connections or the switch. If I shutdown and and restart they vanish. Of course a code popped which is expect after a few times of that.
I suspect the battery, but checking the switch would not be amiss
How much of a pain is it to remove the switch and put it back and align it correctly. I have done fair bit of deep water fording.
I suspect the battery, but checking the switch would not be amiss
How much of a pain is it to remove the switch and put it back and align it correctly. I have done fair bit of deep water fording.
Last edited by Richard Gallant; 06-29-2021 at 12:51 AM.
#2
Hey Richard. The switch is easy to adjust but I'd sort out your battery first.
Loosen 2 each 10mm bolts on xyz switch.
Have a helper apply hand brake, turn ignition key to Position II, and move the gear shifter to the D position.
Rotate the switch gently and slowly both directions while the helper watches for the D illumination on the instrument panel and the red LED is next to the D gear position.
If those two things happens, tighten the two bolts to set the XYZ switch in that position
Loosen 2 each 10mm bolts on xyz switch.
Have a helper apply hand brake, turn ignition key to Position II, and move the gear shifter to the D position.
Rotate the switch gently and slowly both directions while the helper watches for the D illumination on the instrument panel and the red LED is next to the D gear position.
If those two things happens, tighten the two bolts to set the XYZ switch in that position
The following 2 users liked this post by JUKE179r:
ahab (06-29-2021),
Richard Gallant (06-29-2021)
#3
I had the same problem when the XYZ switch got wet. It took a couple weeks to completely dry out and work right again. It's not hard to take out. I took mine out a cleaned te contacts last year See my post in the thread below.
Flashing M and S lights. - Page 2 - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
Flashing M and S lights. - Page 2 - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
The following users liked this post:
Richard Gallant (06-29-2021)
#4
The RAVE lists 18 transmission faults that can trigger the flashing M&S lights. Only one has anything to do with the XYZ switch, and according to the RAVE that fault also triggers limp home mode. Unless you get the codes read, tearing into the XYZ switch is a shot in the dark. And, it's not likely the cause if the gear indicator in the instrument panel and the LEDs on the shifter bezel display correctly.
As you know, low voltage is the most common cause of the flashing M&S lights, and that's not even among the 18 faults listed in the RAVE. Like others have said, and as you've acknowledged, check and double-check your battery connections and grounds.
As you know, low voltage is the most common cause of the flashing M&S lights, and that's not even among the 18 faults listed in the RAVE. Like others have said, and as you've acknowledged, check and double-check your battery connections and grounds.
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The Deputy (07-11-2021)
#5
#7
Preaching to the choir here, I'm sure. I developed random/intermittent M&S lights on the 03 a few weeks ago. Always at startup. If I warmed it up and revved to 2000RPM for a few minutes the lights would not come back on upon immediate restart. If I put the battery charger on it for a few hours and start it the lights would not come on. But, next day, flashing M&S again. It cranked just fine and never made me think there was a battery issue, however I'll admit that after sitting on the charger the cranking sounded slightly more robust. Based on all that info I bought a new battery. No more M&S lights.
See if leaving the charger on it has any impact at startup. The battery is doing relatively little while driving so if they come on then, that's a different scenario and I think would point more towards either the alternator or the XYZ switch. Put a meter on your battery terminals while the truck is running. You should see 14+ volts. Less would mean a weak alternator.
See if leaving the charger on it has any impact at startup. The battery is doing relatively little while driving so if they come on then, that's a different scenario and I think would point more towards either the alternator or the XYZ switch. Put a meter on your battery terminals while the truck is running. You should see 14+ volts. Less would mean a weak alternator.
The following users liked this post:
The Deputy (07-11-2021)
#8
#9
Just an update on this as it is really ticking me off.
1st off I have located a used XYZ switch $150.00 CDN but is works - very easy to remove which was nice.
Troubleshooting
My gut is the battery is done but it will take along day of testing to know for sure.
Buying a used XWY switch that works is fine by me it is so easy to change so no loss there, and I am not 100% on the battery.
1st off I have located a used XYZ switch $150.00 CDN but is works - very easy to remove which was nice.
Troubleshooting
- As suggested charged the battery overnight - ran through the gears with the key in Pos 2 no issues everything worked correctly
- Started the Disco same test no problem
- Waited a couple of hours start the Disco and M&S lights - did not check the battery before start
- Cleared went for a drive around town - no problems
- Did not charge overnight
- Checked battery 12.3 - so low but not terrible low
- Position 2 test - everything was fine until neutral - light and dash indicator dropped then M&S and CEL
- Clear codes -start engine same test same result M&S and CEL
- Clear codes shift through neutral quickly no code no M & S
- check voltage at battery at alternator 13.9 -14.2 so that is solid
- Park on street clean driveway mow lawn
- Start up all is good
- Go for a hour long drive to get the switch and give teh Disco a good post Inline thermostat change run
- Do the the slow gear change test no issues (twice for good measure)
- Pull the new switch 30 minutes - did not install just want to have one
- Key to pos 2 run the gear with a pause in each no problems
- Start the engine same test no problems
- curse - several times for good measure
- Drive home another hour
- Do the the slow gear change test no issues (twice for good measure)
My gut is the battery is done but it will take along day of testing to know for sure.
Buying a used XWY switch that works is fine by me it is so easy to change so no loss there, and I am not 100% on the battery.
#10
Anywhere between 13.6 -14.7 is fine.
Have you load tested the battery, granted 12.3 is low...so you already know that you've got a tired battery. How old is battery, pretty much 4/5 years is max anymore.
Plus, clean that darn ground cable at alternator bracket...and remove and clean...don't just look at it...it will look fine...but corrision will be there. A good ground is paramount for starting and charging.
Have you load tested the battery, granted 12.3 is low...so you already know that you've got a tired battery. How old is battery, pretty much 4/5 years is max anymore.
Plus, clean that darn ground cable at alternator bracket...and remove and clean...don't just look at it...it will look fine...but corrision will be there. A good ground is paramount for starting and charging.