Going to look at a '01 DII SE tomorrow with 58k
#1
08-25-2018, 09:18 AM
Going to look at a '01 DII SE tomorrow with 58k
[Spoiler alert: I bought the truck and this has become a project truck thread.]
Supposedly has "New head gaskets, new seals in the rear main, seals in diffs, seals in the transfer case, and a new power steering pump. All done just a few months ago and the car has 58k on it."
He's asking $8k and has all receipts for work done, all at LR dealer, he says.
Is that a ridiculous price?
Supposedly has "New head gaskets, new seals in the rear main, seals in diffs, seals in the transfer case, and a new power steering pump. All done just a few months ago and the car has 58k on it."
He's asking $8k and has all receipts for work done, all at LR dealer, he says.
Is that a ridiculous price?
Last edited by rtm; 10-15-2018 at 10:01 PM. Reason: thread has morphed from new purchase thread to project truck thread
#2
08-25-2018, 09:42 AM
I have put together this list of things to check when I go tomorrow. I culled this from a few posts here on this forum. Let me know if you think there's anything else I should check.
I should mention that I fully expect this vehicle to be maintenance-heavy in the long run, but I don't mind spending more up front for one that's in good shape to begin with. I only live 8 miles away, so I actually cycle to work so this is more of a weekend fun vehicle. I am mechanically minded and stoked to learn more but I don't have a lot of experience working on light trucks. I work with a lot of folks who do, though, and I have access to lots of tools. What I mean to say is: I realize that these can be headache vehicles but I still want one. My wife has a brand new vehicle, so it's not like I'll ever be terribly inconvenienced when it inevitably breaks down.
Prior to the test drive, check underneath the Disco 2 to insure that it isn't rusted out. Large rust repairs are out of your scope of experience/$. Check out the frame rails behind the rear axle for rust...or being rusted to the point they are gone
Note if the vehicle has any off road "extras" such as steel bumpers, Lift kit, roof rack, rear ladder, spare jerry can, offroad lights, snorkel, etc.
A truck that doesn't need repainting saves you $. A truck that already has decent rubber saves you on tire $.
Note the major leaks/areas. It's British. It leaks unless it's empty. Inspect the front drive shaft.
Pop the hood and check the fluids. Is the oil at the proper fill level and clear or light brown? Is it low and dirty black? Smell it. If it smells like rotten eggs there may be a head gasket or cracked block issue.
Is the coolant topped up? Squeeze the radiator hoses if they are cool-enough to touch safely.
Now install your UG under the cockpit dash on the OBD2 port. Start the truck.
How is the idle?
Do the radiator hoses immediately get hard, or can you still squeeze them?
Look underneath. Any new/major leaks?
Close the hood. Go for a test drive. Test the brakes first at 5mph or less...don't want to get burned on your test drive learning that the brakes don't work. Use your emergency brake at 4mph. Same.
Listen/feel for any driveshaft vibrations between 10mph and 20 mph, especially when turning. Shocks OK? Power steering working? Cruise control works?
What coolant temp is your UG showing? 193-210 (If equipped with 195F thermostat) or 188-205F (If equipped with 180F thermostat)
Test all electronics, test 4hi/N/4lo operation, listen for any knocking/ticks
Check the "Fuel Status" to verify that the truck is in "Closed Loop" mode while idling.
How did the driver seat do? Not worn out? Interior OK? Test your headlights, blinkers, and radio. Electrics OK? Windows roll up/down? Sunroofs?
Turn on the A/C.
Any leaks from the heater core into the cockpit/floorboard?
No funky clunks or difficulties shifting P to R to D?
Note the mileage and which warning lights are on, in the dash.
Do the coolant leak test. (Uview 560000) check that the fluid does not turn yellow.
Finally, check the error codes.
Note if the vehicle has any off road "extras" such as steel bumpers, Lift kit, roof rack, rear ladder, spare jerry can, offroad lights, snorkel, etc.
A truck that doesn't need repainting saves you $. A truck that already has decent rubber saves you on tire $.
Note the major leaks/areas. It's British. It leaks unless it's empty. Inspect the front drive shaft.
Pop the hood and check the fluids. Is the oil at the proper fill level and clear or light brown? Is it low and dirty black? Smell it. If it smells like rotten eggs there may be a head gasket or cracked block issue.
Is the coolant topped up? Squeeze the radiator hoses if they are cool-enough to touch safely.
Now install your UG under the cockpit dash on the OBD2 port. Start the truck.
How is the idle?
Do the radiator hoses immediately get hard, or can you still squeeze them?
Look underneath. Any new/major leaks?
Close the hood. Go for a test drive. Test the brakes first at 5mph or less...don't want to get burned on your test drive learning that the brakes don't work. Use your emergency brake at 4mph. Same.
Listen/feel for any driveshaft vibrations between 10mph and 20 mph, especially when turning. Shocks OK? Power steering working? Cruise control works?
What coolant temp is your UG showing? 193-210 (If equipped with 195F thermostat) or 188-205F (If equipped with 180F thermostat)
Test all electronics, test 4hi/N/4lo operation, listen for any knocking/ticks
Check the "Fuel Status" to verify that the truck is in "Closed Loop" mode while idling.
How did the driver seat do? Not worn out? Interior OK? Test your headlights, blinkers, and radio. Electrics OK? Windows roll up/down? Sunroofs?
Turn on the A/C.
Any leaks from the heater core into the cockpit/floorboard?
No funky clunks or difficulties shifting P to R to D?
Note the mileage and which warning lights are on, in the dash.
Do the coolant leak test. (Uview 560000) check that the fluid does not turn yellow.
Finally, check the error codes.
#4
08-25-2018, 11:26 AM
Baja
Supposedly has "New head gaskets, new seals in the rear main, seals in diffs, seals in the transfer case, and a new power steering pump. All done just a few months ago and the car has 58k on it."
He's asking $8k and has all receipts for work done, all at LR dealer, he says.
Is that a ridiculous price?
He's asking $8k and has all receipts for work done, all at LR dealer, he says.
Is that a ridiculous price?
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rtm (08-25-2018)
#5
08-25-2018, 11:38 AM
It would have a six digit odometer so it would say 158 if it had 158,000 on it. More likely is a BCU/ECU and gauge cluster swap. I'd want to see a carfax on the VIN.
Also why would anyone have all that work done at a dealer? That would be over $10k... The only possible scenario is that it was owned by a little old lady who traded in at a dealer on a new RR when she saw the amount of work it needed, a tech bought the truck and did the work himself.
Ask many questions on this one.
Also why would anyone have all that work done at a dealer? That would be over $10k... The only possible scenario is that it was owned by a little old lady who traded in at a dealer on a new RR when she saw the amount of work it needed, a tech bought the truck and did the work himself.
Ask many questions on this one.
#6
08-25-2018, 11:44 AM
I will be very wary. I will check his service receipts and call the dealer.
The pictures of the vehicle look very clean, like it sat in a garage of a vacation home or something - so the little old lady or rich vacationers theory might be on point. It's a good question why he would do all that work. There's a picture of the odometer but it's digital - would that be more or less likely to be tampered with?
I ran an AutoCheck report which said there should be no concern about the odometer. Two owners prior, this guy has owned it for a year and a half as one of many vehicles and is moving on. Previous owner to him had it since 2001 and never had an accident.
Anything I should watch out for on the ultragauge that would tip me off?
Thanks!
The pictures of the vehicle look very clean, like it sat in a garage of a vacation home or something - so the little old lady or rich vacationers theory might be on point. It's a good question why he would do all that work. There's a picture of the odometer but it's digital - would that be more or less likely to be tampered with?
I ran an AutoCheck report which said there should be no concern about the odometer. Two owners prior, this guy has owned it for a year and a half as one of many vehicles and is moving on. Previous owner to him had it since 2001 and never had an accident.
Anything I should watch out for on the ultragauge that would tip me off?
Thanks!
#7
08-25-2018, 12:06 PM
The only way to tamper is to swap out the gauge cluster but that can be synchronized with the existing BCU/ECU. There are measure when doing that which make the mileage read the higher of the two if different so swapping a full set would have to be done which would then be undetectable other than by actual records that show the progress of the mileage at service intervals. It may well be a real 58k, You do a swap like that you can't hide the service trail. You can also call any dealer and with the VIN they can tell you all of the service history and if the miles check out and seem real.
As is often reported on here, a 15 year old car is still a 15 year old car even with low miles things fail, age, and deteriorate.
Again the service department of a dealer may be able to tell you why it was brought in, say maybe the cooling system was neglected and it overheated causing the need for head gaskets. Its not like you fix the rear main seal as part of an HG job, you remove the engine for that. Need more info for sure.
All that diff and transfer case work with seals too, Makes one wonder if it is an unreported flood car... Where is it located?
As is often reported on here, a 15 year old car is still a 15 year old car even with low miles things fail, age, and deteriorate.
Again the service department of a dealer may be able to tell you why it was brought in, say maybe the cooling system was neglected and it overheated causing the need for head gaskets. Its not like you fix the rear main seal as part of an HG job, you remove the engine for that. Need more info for sure.
All that diff and transfer case work with seals too, Makes one wonder if it is an unreported flood car... Where is it located?
Last edited by Dave03S; 08-25-2018 at 12:09 PM.
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rtm (08-25-2018)
#8
08-25-2018, 12:21 PM
There's definitely no flood risk around here. Autocheck shows all registration renewal and smog checks renewals are in the same city in this state so I don't think it's ever spent time elsewhere. It was always re-registered and emissions checked on time, on a regular schedule, if that matters.
(Am I being paranoid that I don't want to say my exact location? I don't want someone to snipe my find.)
(Am I being paranoid that I don't want to say my exact location? I don't want someone to snipe my find.)
#9
08-25-2018, 12:23 PM
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shanechevelle (08-31-2018)
#10
08-25-2018, 12:24 PM
Super Moderator
I personally avoid any LR with less than 100k on it (I actually prefer 150k & up). The ones with that low of mileage have just sat all around vs being driven & age itself will catch up to it. If it truly has 58k it shouldn’t have needed any HG work unless it was over-heated IMHO.
I dunno what all the price fussing is all about honestly. D2’s are old enough that KBB & NADA value mean little or next to nothing these days. It’s more of a supply & demand type thing. In some area’s they go for a dime a dozen & in other area’s a good clean & well maintained D2 can see 10k. Just depends on the situation. Honestly if an 02 Trek or 04 G2 showed up in good shape for sale near me for 10k I’d jump on it. Try buying a new SUV that looks good, and can perform on/off road as good for 10k & you’ll come up empty handed.
I dunno what all the price fussing is all about honestly. D2’s are old enough that KBB & NADA value mean little or next to nothing these days. It’s more of a supply & demand type thing. In some area’s they go for a dime a dozen & in other area’s a good clean & well maintained D2 can see 10k. Just depends on the situation. Honestly if an 02 Trek or 04 G2 showed up in good shape for sale near me for 10k I’d jump on it. Try buying a new SUV that looks good, and can perform on/off road as good for 10k & you’ll come up empty handed.
Last edited by Best4x4; 08-25-2018 at 12:27 PM.