Any words of wisdom or hints/tricks before I start? I'm hoping it really is as easy as putting chocks on the wheels, sliding under, removing a few bolts on each side and putting the new one in.
I went through the articles on them, but didn't see if I will have issues on the bolts getting them off, or what to torque them to putting them on. I'll take any tips or tricks before I get down to business!

 

My tip is: Take it off and take it to the best drive line shop you can find. $250 is a bargain to have it rebuilt. I've always though those who rebuild their own drive shafts are those guys who are on the side of the road with it hanging on the ground. If you do it yourself the centering ball will be the thorn in your side. I've heard a slide hammer is your friend on that one.

 

I think he purchased a replacement and will be doing a direct swap. Good luck!

 

Oh right on. That is ever better...= no downtime

 

If it's on a lift, piece of cake. Actually, not too bad on the ground either. If on the ground raise one of the front wheels so you can spin the shaft. Replace the nuts with new ones(they are not safely reusable.) Grab a beer and smile ;-) Only 8 nuts and they are easy to get too.

PS. I had mine on a lift with a small impact wrench and it seriously took like 10 minutes.

 

This is actually the reason I didn't do it last night. I slid under and thought to myself I should replace the nuts. Sooooo.... any particular ones I should be using? What about the bolts? I figure I'd have to take one off of each to get replacements, but want to make sure they are totally correct.

 

The nuts get chewed up, but the bolts are ok. You need grade 8 nylock nuts in 3/8" fine thread if I remember correctly.

 

I picked up 8 yellow zinc 3/8"dia grade 8 1-1/4" long bolts 24 treads per inch with 3/8" yellow zinc grade 8 nylocks. IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND. I checked in my local hardware store, Home Depots and Lowe's. I had to order them from Fastenal. The bolts on the T-case side will have to be cut off, as youcant remove them without pulling the flange. And the new bots will have to be grounded down. You'll see what I mean. Grind down one side of the hex head to fit them back into the T-case flange. Tighten until you can't tighten anymore. I had to use 9/16" box wrenches, so...no torquing for me.

 

Don't remove the transfer case side bolts IMO, more hassle than it's worth. Just put new nuts on them.

 

I'm getting uber confused now! So, keep original bolts all the way around, put new nuts all the way around? All I need is 8 new grade 8 Nylock nuts in 3/8" fine thread?
I am confused about taking the bolts out or not. If you don't replace the bolts, you don't have to take them out? I'm trying to figure out why they would/wouldn't be cut out!
I will have to check around hardware stores tonight to try and find the nuts. Those pretty easy to find? Auto parts stores? Ideas? UGH! I thought this would be 1-2-3 in and out easy. CRAP!